Volvo Penta 2003

Mine is still starting well and running fine after 30 years and over 5000 hours (probably nearer 6000). Service parts need not be VP ones. Oil and fuel filters from any motor factors who can cross-match the part numbers. Mineral oil and not fancy modern stuff.

These are very common so lots of info and help here.
 
As the OP my heartfelt thanks to all those who have replied with I must say is very reassuring indeed.
I will not actually be hands on with the boat until the 24th. when I can apply the knowledge so many of you, and this is what I love about this site, a willingness of the members to share their knowledge and experiences.
My previous has been 25 years using Perkins 4107/8 which are amazing engines, regular oil changes, fuel filter changes, and air input gauze cleaning is all they require. Not to forget the raw water filter gauze cleaning.

The 2003 engine has apparently lain idle for at least 12 months, the PO having passed away and family not involved in care. Would it be an advantage, or even wise to pre-lube the bores via the injectors with oil (WD40) prior to starting, or cranking before using the staring procedure to ensure oil has reached the rings and bores.
Any other suggestions very welcome.
Thanks to one and all again.
Mike
 
Freedom35 said:
The 2003 engine has apparently lain idle for at least 12 months, the PO having passed away and family not involved in care. Would it be an advantage, or even wise to pre-lube the bores via the injectors with oil (WD40) prior to starting, or cranking before using the staring procedure to ensure oil has reached the rings and bores.
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I wouldn't disturb the injectors if it's at all avoidable. You might use the decompression lever then turn the engine on the starter whilst spraying WD40 into the air intake, that might get some light lubrication into the cylinders.

Before you do anything, check the raw water impeller and replace if it looks in poor condition.

Edit: Be very wary of turning the engine over for an extended time with the raw water seacock open. The engine can fill with water and be wrecked. The engine relies on the flow of exhaust gas to blow the water out of the exhaust system.
 
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Thanks for the advice on the injectors, as you say best left alone unless a problem.
The Penta is obviously a different animal to the Perkins which also depends on the exhaust gas but it never ever flooded the engine in the manner you say this engine could well do.
Do you suggest keeping the seacock closed until the engine is running?
The impellor could well be a problem following the time since it has been run, will check it first. Is the impeller easily accessible?
 
Freedom35 said:
Do you suggest keeping the seacock closed until the engine is running?
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Not in normal circumstances, it's just that if you're cranking the engine for some time without it firing up, the water has nowhere to go and can backfill through the exhaust manifold.

Freedom35 said:
The impellor could well be a problem following the time since it has been run, will check it first. Is the impeller easily accessible?
Click to expand...

Very easy to access.
 
I was referring to keeping the cock closed only during the exceptional circumstances following a long period of time since last run, because, if, and it is highly possible that the engine doesn't start as quickly as normally it would protect the engine, from the big problems you rightly pointed out occurring until starting normality returns.
I entirely agree it would be bad practice to start without the flow of cooling water, and would never attempt doing so in normal circumstances.
 
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Change the impeller, try to find the starting handle (may have gone walk about) and turn engine over by hand using de-compression lever. If engine turns freely try to start with sea cock open. If no starting handle you could use a socket and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Set throttle to full, pull stop lever out fully and return to off, then try to start. If it doesn't fire after 5 or 10 seconds then you need to close the sea cock. Hopefully it will fire, with hand on the throttle lever you ease the throttle as the engine begins to pick up the revs. Fingers crossed you should be ok and have a running engine.
 
black mercury said:
Change the impeller, try to find the starting handle (may have gone walk about) and turn engine over by hand using de-compression lever. If engine turns freely try to start with sea cock open. If no starting handle you could use a socket and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Set throttle to full, pull stop lever out fully and return to off, then try to start. If it doesn't fire after 5 or 10 seconds then you need to close the sea cock. Hopefully it will fire, with hand on the throttle lever you ease the throttle as the engine begins to pick up the revs. Fingers crossed you should be ok and have a running engine.
Click to expand...

Not all 2003s have a starting handle; the shaft for the handle exists on all (it's the end of the cam-shaft, I think), but not all have the pin through the shaft that allows a starting handle to engage. Mine doesn't and I gather that it's not unusual, and not a fault. I think the pin can be retro-fitted, but it needs the engine apart to do it. Further, if you look up the cost of the official starting handle, you're going to get a surprise - they are a silly price for a simple bit of non-precision of metal-working! I think anyone with minimal workshop facilites including welding could make one.

I turn mine with a socket on the nut on the end of the crankshaft using a ratchet driver.
 
Very reassuring, all sounds straight forward, I am ordering an impeller to take with me to change.
Keep anything you think of further coming.
Many thanks
Mike
 
AntarcticPilot said:
Not all 2003s have a starting handle; the shaft for the handle exists on all (it's the end of the cam-shaft, I think), but not all have the pin through the shaft that allows a starting handle to engage. Mine doesn't and I gather that it's not unusual, and not a fault. I think the pin can be retro-fitted, but it needs the engine apart to do it. Further, if you look up the cost of the official starting handle, you're going to get a surprise - they are a silly price for a simple bit of non-precision of metal-working! I think anyone with minimal workshop facilites including welding could make one.

I turn mine with a socket on the nut on the end of the crankshaft using a ratchet driver.
Click to expand...

Starting handle is a euphemism it’s more of a method of barring the engine over l am not sure if any normal person ever managed to hand start a 2000 series in situ perhaps a warm engine in on a test rig!
I would also consider a fresh supply of fuel and if pos some fuel system washers there used to be a set available
The fuel lift pump can be tricky if the engine stops with the cam in the wrong position which prevents the hand primer working
A fresh battery with leads would also be useful
I believe that the decompression lever is incremental but someone else should be able to give more details
I seem to remember some engines with the end Brocken off at the drive pin hole ?
 
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scottie said:
Starting handle is a euphemism it’s more of a method of barring the engine over l am not sure if any normal person ever managed to hand start a 2000 series in situ perhaps a warm engine in on a test rig!
I would also consider a fresh supply of fuel and if pos some fuel system washers there used to be a set available
The fuel lift pump can be tricky if the engine stops with the cam in the wrong position which prevents the hand primer working
A fresh battery with leads would also be useful
I believe that the decompression lever is incremental but someone else should be able to give more details
I seem to remember some engines with the end Brocken off at the drive pin hole ?
Click to expand...

I agree that it must be difficult to hand-start a Volvo 2003 - there isn't a large flywheel, so you can't wind it up with the decompressor on and then drop the compressor to allow the flywheel to take it over for a few turns, which is how we started the Sabb 6-8hp on my Dad's boat in the 60s. That was bad enough! People on here have claimed to do it, though - all I can say is that they must be younger and stronger than I am, or else they have a tame gorilla on board!
 
Yes, you could manage a starting handle start on the single cylinder, just about on the two, but the three cylinder no chance. Although the extra adrenalin if you were drifting on to rocks might give you the extra strength required! Depends on installation too, there needs to be room for you to perform all the body movements required! But yes more a method of turning engine over to check valve clearances!
 
Sandy said:
Alternatively, set throttle to the midpoint, pull the stop out twice, crank engine and throttle back when it fires.

Check water is exiting with the exhaust.
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You can do it this way, but it will not activate the cold start system.

It helps to understand how the system works ... with the engine on full throttle, the fuel rack is set to the normal maximum position. When you pull the "stop" lever, it lifts the gate, allowing the fuel rack to slide forward to a "cold start" position. When the engine revs, it will slide back to the normal running position. Closing the throttle a little before the engine has started will also allow the rack to slide back, cancelling the cold start.

Pulling the "stop" lever whilst the fuel rack is in a mid throttle position has no effect. The fuel rack is not pushed up agaisnt the end stop, so when the gate is lifted it stays exactly where it was, and does not slide forward to the cold start position. Pulling it twice has no benefit over pulling it once.
 
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rszemeti said:
You can do it this way, but it will not activate the cold start system.

It helps to understand how the system works ... with the engine on full throttle, the fuel rack is set to the normal maximum position. When you pull the "stop" lever, it lifts the gate, allowing the fuel rack to slide forward to a "cold start" position. When the engine revs, it will slide back to the normal running position. Closing the throttle a little before the engine has started will also allow the rack to slide back, cancelling the cold start.

Pulling the "stop" lever whilst the fuel rack is in a mid throttle position has no effect. The fuel rack is not pushed up agaisnt the end stop, so when the gate is lifted it stays exactly where it was, and does not slide forward to the cold start position. Pulling it twice has no benefit over pulling it once.
Click to expand...
If that is the case then there is a unknown helper on my boat that makes things happen, but hey I'm just an engineer, what do I know?
 
Sandy said:
If that is the case then there is a unknown helper on my boat that makes things happen, but hey I'm just an engineer, what do I know?
Click to expand...

It's probably always started without the help of the cold start mechanism, even though you think you've been setting it. My old 2003T usually did.
 
What a wealth of experience and information, I am beginning to feel like a Volvo expert without ever laying a hand on one!
Thank you all so much, I feel absolutely confident when I face the beast for the first time, with you all looking over my shoulder it will start immediately.
Mike
 
My concerns were not justified about the engine you all gave so much good advice about.
Apparently the engine had been started every few weeks, the owner assured me, other than a bit of white crust around the edge of the impeller housing all looked very good.
I followed the starting procedures as recommended here, 3/4 throttle and just one pull of the stop was all that was required, and I did try a number using a double pull which didn't make any difference (sorry jock) smoke as expected quickly cleared, ran very well, after an hour on two occasions nothing untoward or anything to cause concern.
Many thanks to one and all again. Mike
 
pvb said:
Procedure is to put throttle to max in neutral, pull stop out, push stop back, crank engine, throttle back when it fires.
Click to expand...
Ok. I'm all new to this....
When reading about a cold start, it says reset the throttle to about half. I've tried this and note the prop shaft is still engaged. Is this normal?
How do I put the gearbox into neutral with a single side mounted lever?
 
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