Volvo Penta 2003 Seized after winter ashore

RIBW said:
Both my 2003's were fitted with them but at the back of my mind I recalled :-
VicS’s #15 in
Volvo 2003 decomp lever
QUOTE
I think the decompression lever was dropped from later engines.
Details from the parts lists:- HAS BEEN REMOVED ON 2003B AND 2003D FROM SN2300059085-
AND ON 2003TB FROM SN2300059107-.
UNQUOTE

Also a cut & paste from one version of my official VP documentation:-
The engines were built in an earlier A version and a later B version. The main changes introduced on the B versions were :

• Modified combustion chamber and 5-hole injector nozzle with no sack hole.
• Changed injector opening pressure.
• New injection pumps (not 2003T) with increased plunger diameter.
• Smoke limiter added to 2003T.
• Decompressor omitted from 2001 and 2003 (was omitted during ongoing production of 2002A).
• Changed cooling system hose run (fresh water system) on 2003T.

Cheers
Bob
Click to expand...
Thanks beginning to worry about it
 
rotrax said:
I had one without......................
Click to expand...
I've GOT one without. Pop round ...

Returning to the OP's post - I'm not at all convinced it's mechanically seized. The fact that the solenoid gets 'very hot' makes me wonder about a high resistance in there...
 
If your exhaust bend has corroded internally seawater can have been forced into the exhaust manifold and cylinders. If salt water has been allowed to stay there for 6 months + that could explain a seized engine.
 
Sea_Spray said:
I've GOT one without. Pop round ...

Returning to the OP's post - I'm not at all convinced it's mechanically seized. The fact that the solenoid gets 'very hot' makes me wonder about a high resistance in there...
Click to expand...

Yes. I did suggest earlier on removing the starter and checking it. It seems as though there hasn't yet been an attempt to separate the possible issues. Starter, or engine? Diagnosing faults requires elimination of the easy fixes first.

.
 
To take the starter Motor off you need special 10mm allen key´s. take a normal 10 mm allen key and make the short end shorter to about 20mm ( you need this one for the lower screw. for the upper screw modify a second 10 mm allen key, cut off the angled bit (short piece) and use a 10mm nut to extend. The screws are very tied For the lower allen key you also need a piece of e.g. water pipe to get more power....in the upper screw, the allen key is inserted in a 20 degree angle....you need a lot of power to loosen the screws. The water cooler is in the way, therefor the angle. If you cant loosen the screws, use a hammer and knock on the screw.
There is very little space in the bottom of the starter therfore you have to cut the allen key.
The stater is most likely a Valeo inside this starter motor is a helical transmission with 3 tooth gears made out of plastic and one o f them drives the outer gear also plastic....real junk...

I milled the staight allen key after 2 cm down to 8mm (on a lace) up to 2cm before the end to make it slimmer in order to get it more straight into the imbuss screw head.
Good luck

I have done the job before....and buy two new 10mm xca 30mm screws after the job....the screw heads will be damaged.

This engine is over 30 years old and the weak parts are: starter motor (plastic gear box) , fuel pump (membrane), injector nozzels (bad diesel).

I was lucky that this problem happend to me in Poland. They repaired the starter for 45pounds ( not Valvo Penta, specialized workshop for Starters and Alternators) and excused for the high price. In Germany 1800 Euros and no repair just exchange....The 45 pounds was for labour and parts (gearbox and new 9 teeth drive gear).
 
Last edited:
I go for taking the starter off as FrankKlose has described and then try turning the crank to ascertain whether its the pistons, crank or starter
 
So by way of a good news update:

A friend of a friend is a mechanic with considerable experience of Diesel Engines. He has looked at the problem today and taken the following action:
  • Confirmed my diagnosis of seizure following the same Battery and Starter checks I conducted originally. Crank would not turn and was seized solid
  • Removed cylinder head and found 3 cylinders seized with corrosion and sea water entry evident
  • Considerable effort to eventually free all three cylinders with a mixture of pry bar on bolts threaded into front pulley and gentle tapping of pistons
  • Thorough cleaning of cylinder liners
  • Replacement of all top end gaskets
  • Reassembly of cylinder head and reseat injectors (reseating middle cylinder took two attempts at cleaning / doing up clamps)
  • Reattach and bleed fuel lines
  • Ran engine up with hose pipe to raw water intake for over 15 minutes
The engine ran a little rough to start with whilst we continued to bleed fuel system and any residual penetrating oil burned off.

Everything apparently running as normal now.

I still have residual concerns about the condition of the piston rings, however next step is to do an oil change and run the engine gently periodically over a number of days to ensure sufficient reliability for move back to her home berth.

Thank you to all members of the forum that contributed to this thread and helped guide my thinking
 
Frankklose said:
To take the starter Motor off you need special 10mm allen key´s. take a normal 10 mm allen key and make the short end shorter to about 20mm ( you need this one for the lower screw. for the upper screw modify a second 10 mm allen key, cut off the angled bit (short piece) and use a 10mm nut to extend. The screws are very tied For the lower allen key you also need a piece of e.g. water pipe to get more power....in the upper screw, the allen key is inserted in a 20 degree angle....you need a lot of power to loosen the screws. The water cooler is in the way, therefor the angle. If you cant loosen the screws, use a hammer and knock on the screw.
There is very little space in the bottom of the starter therfore you have to cut the allen key.
The stater is most likely a Valeo inside this starter motor is a helical transmission with 3 tooth gears made out of plastic and one o f them drives the outer gear also plastic....real junk...

I milled the staight allen key after 2 cm down to 8mm (on a lace) up to 2cm before the end to make it slimmer in order to get it more straight into the imbuss screw head.
Good luck

I have done the job before....and buy two new 10mm xca 30mm screws after the job....the screw heads will be damaged.

This engine is over 30 years old and the weak parts are: starter motor (plastic gear box) , fuel pump (membrane), injector nozzels (bad diesel).

I was lucky that this problem happend to me in Poland. They repaired the starter for 45pounds ( not Valvo Penta, specialized workshop for Starters and Alternators) and excused for the high price. In Germany 1800 Euros and no repair just exchange....The 45 pounds was for labour and parts (gearbox and new 9 teeth drive gear).
Click to expand...
 
Frankklose said:
To take the starter Motor off you need special 10mm allen key´s. take a normal 10 mm allen key and make the short end shorter to about 20mm ( you need this one for the lower screw. for the upper screw modify a second 10 mm allen key, cut off the angled bit (short piece) and use a 10mm nut to extend. The screws are very tied For the lower allen key you also need a piece of e.g. water pipe to get more power....in the upper screw, the allen key is inserted in a 20 degree angle....you need a lot of power to loosen the screws. The water cooler is in the way, therefor the angle. If you cant loosen the screws, use a hammer and knock on the screw.
There is very little space in the bottom of the starter therfore you have to cut the allen key.
The stater is most likely a Valeo inside this starter motor is a helical transmission with 3 tooth gears made out of plastic and one o f them drives the outer gear also plastic....real junk...

I milled the staight allen key after 2 cm down to 8mm (on a lace) up to 2cm before the end to make it slimmer in order to get it more straight into the imbuss screw head.
Good luck

I have done the job before....and buy two new 10mm xca 30mm screws after the job....the screw heads will be damaged.

This engine is over 30 years old and the weak parts are: starter motor (plastic gear box) , fuel pump (membrane), injector nozzels (bad diesel).

I was lucky that this problem happend to me in Poland. They repaired the starter for 45pounds ( not Valvo Penta, specialized workshop for Starters and Alternators) and excused for the high price. In Germany 1800 Euros and no repair just exchange....The 45 pounds was for labour and parts (gearbox and new 9 teeth drive gear).
Click to expand...
Yep found out the hard way that getting the starter motor was a pig to get off without a shortened allen key. I dont recomend a 10mm allen key bit from a socket set and an 8mm spanner on the skinny end. However it does work.
 
So by way of a good news update:

A friend of a friend is a mechanic with considerable experience of Diesel Engines. He has looked at the problem today and taken the following action:
  • Confirmed my diagnosis of seizure following the same Battery and Starter checks I conducted originally. Crank would not turn and was seized solid
  • Removed cylinder head and found 3 cylinders seized with corrosion and sea water entry evident
  • Considerable effort to eventually free all three cylinders with a mixture of pry bar on bolts threaded into front pulley and gentle tapping of pistons
  • Thorough cleaning of cylinder liners
  • Replacement of all top end gaskets
  • Reassembly of cylinder head and reseat injectors (reseating middle cylinder took two attempts at cleaning / doing up clamps)
  • Reattach and bleed fuel lines
  • Ran engine up with hose pipe to raw water intake for over 15 minutes
The engine ran a little rough to start with whilst we continued to bleed fuel system and any residual penetrating oil burned off.

Everything apparently running as normal now.

I still have residual concerns about the condition of the piston rings, however next step is to do an oil change and run the engine gently periodically over a number of days to ensure sufficient reliability for move back to her home berth.

Thank you to all members of the forum that contributed to this thread and helped guide my thinking.

Much appreciated!!!!
 
howster79 said:
I have today relaunched my Westerly Centaur, equipped with a Volvo Penta 2003, 28 Hp engine after a winter ashore.

When the boat was laid up in November the engine was working fine.
Click to expand...

howster79 said:
So by way of a good news update:

A friend of a friend is a mechanic with considerable experience of Diesel Engines. He has looked at the problem today and taken the following action:
  • Removed cylinder head and found 3 cylinders seized with corrosion and sea water entry evident
Click to expand...

Any idea how the sea water got in to the engine while it was ashore?
 
howster79 said:
So by way of a good news update:

A friend of a friend is a mechanic with considerable experience of Diesel Engines. He has looked at the problem today and taken the following action:
  • Confirmed my diagnosis of seizure following the same Battery and Starter checks I conducted originally. Crank would not turn and was seized solid
  • Removed cylinder head and found 3 cylinders seized with corrosion and sea water entry evident
  • Considerable effort to eventually free all three cylinders with a mixture of pry bar on bolts threaded into front pulley and gentle tapping of pistons
  • Thorough cleaning of cylinder liners
  • Replacement of all top end gaskets
  • Reassembly of cylinder head and reseat injectors (reseating middle cylinder took two attempts at cleaning / doing up clamps)
  • Reattach and bleed fuel lines
  • Ran engine up with hose pipe to raw water intake for over 15 minutes
The engine ran a little rough to start with whilst we continued to bleed fuel system and any residual penetrating oil burned off.

Everything apparently running as normal now.

I still have residual concerns about the condition of the piston rings, however next step is to do an oil change and run the engine gently periodically over a number of days to ensure sufficient reliability for move back to her home berth.

Thank you to all members of the forum that contributed to this thread and helped guide my thinking.

Much appreciated!!!!
Click to expand...

Have been following this thread.

Great feedback. Thanks
 
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