Volvo Penta 2003 Cooling

[dcr]

Hi,

Can anyone please advise the precise locations of the raw water cooling water connections on the engine, or perhaps provide a link to this data.

ie: from raw water pump discharge to engine.

We are currently on the river Saone and having serious cooling problems with the engine so are looking to change from indirect to direct cooling now we have left the canals and the river is "cooler and cleaner."

Thanks, dcr

 

[Tranona]

You can't just "change". Your engine is either raw water cooled with a pump that picks up water through the inlet, circulates it around the engine and squirts it into the exhaust pipe to mix with the exhaust gases.

OR it is fresh water cooled with a raw water pump that pumps into a heat exchanger which holds coolaant (water and anti freeze.corrosion mix) which is circulated by another pump in the engine. The cooling raw water flows through the heat exchanger and is injected into the exhaust as in a raw water system.

The advantage of a heat exchanger system is that it allows the engine to run hotter and avoids seawater circulating around the engine.

You have one or the other - quite obvious which is which.

 

[dcr]

Volvo 2003 cooling

Tranona,
Thanks for your response - we currently have an indirect cooling system changed from a direct one last september and due to overheating I would like to change it back to direct river water cooling but can't locate the engine inlet for the raw water from the pump.
We could refit the indirect heat exchanger system but having already changed thermostats both for 74c and lastly 60c are not happy we will get to work reliably.
The heat exchanger has been checked and there is no blockage plus the electric circulating pump is working ok when removed and bench tested.
There is a plentiful supply of cooling water from the raw water pump so this is why we would like to change back.
Any ideas on the right connection on the engine?
Thanks, dcr

 

[Carmel2]

You might be able to find it using this http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineDieselEngines.aspx

 

[MoodySabre]

I can email the instructions for converting from raw water cooling to indirect. Presume you follow these in reverse!

If it's not getting cooled enough indirectly and there is nothing wrong with the heat exchanger or circulation pump then the question is - why? If there is some restriction in the circulation of cooling water then changing it back to raw water cooling may not be the cure.

If you want the instructions then PM me your email address.

 

[maxi77]

Have you tried radflush in the freshwater side? that can work wonders. You can get the french equivalent in most Feu Vert stores

 

[Tranona]

Tranona,
Thanks for your response - we currently have an indirect cooling system changed from a direct one last september and due to overheating I would like to change it back to direct river water cooling but can't locate the engine inlet for the raw water from the pump.
We could refit the indirect heat exchanger system but having already changed thermostats both for 74c and lastly 60c are not happy we will get to work reliably.
The heat exchanger has been checked and there is no blockage plus the electric circulating pump is working ok when removed and bench tested.
There is a plentiful supply of cooling water from the raw water pump so this is why we would like to change back.
Any ideas on the right connection on the engine?
Thanks, dcr

If you look in the schematic and parts list in the link Carmel gives you, the water goes from the water pump into the thermostat housing, so you will probably need all the pipes and fittings from the pump upwards, plus probably a different thermostat housing.

If the heat exchanger is clear and the circulating pump works then the problem is more likely internal and just changing back to raw water cooling will not help. The usual culprits are the exhaust manifold or the water injection and the head gasket.

Perhaps better to investigate the lack of cooling in the engine rather than messing about with the external bits.

 

[scottie]

Check the water distribution pipe in the cyl head

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Check the water distribution pipe in the cyl head

Yes. That is a pipe in the cylinder head that has a series of holes bored in it. These holes get blocked quite easily. Unfortunately, I unblocked mine while the cylinder head was off, so I don't know how to do it without removing the cylinder head.

 

[dcr]

Volvo Penta 2003 Cooling Result

Our thanks for all who responded, we removed the elbow and found a lot of carbon blocking the water ports which we have scraped out. Now covered 125km and in Lyon sitting in the rain!.
Have tried to send this post 3 times but getting on line is not easy in France.
Our thanks again.
Cheers,
dcr

 

[JanZ]

Where exactly in Poole did you get your replacement seawater pump from??

 

[Tim 500]

Hi, I have reverse problem, have just changed my 2003 to fresh water cooling and it seems to be running too cold. Domestic water takes ages to heat up and the temperature gauge I fitted won’t reach more than 65 degrees C.
Have checked the new 74 degree thermostat and it’s fine.
NB the temperature sensor is where the anode used to be.

 

[sailaboutvic]

Hi, I have reverse problem, have just changed my 2003 to fresh water cooling and it seems to be running too cold. Domestic water takes ages to heat up and the temperature gauge I fitted won’t reach more than 65 degrees C.
Have checked the new 74 degree thermostat and it’s fine.
NB the temperature sensor is where the anode used to be.

Two thing to check , the pipe coming from the engine to the hot water tank .
And the coil inside the hot water tank , flash them out , any blocks inside the tank with not only stop the hot water from heating up but can also over heat the engine .

 

[Tim 500]

Thanks, but engine is running cold?

Tim

 

[RichardS]

If the engine won't get up to the temperature of the thermostat even after an hour or so running it sounds as if there is something wrong with the system flow and the thermostat is being bypassed through the old raw water bypass or one of the other raw water routes. Who did the conversion from direct to indirect cooling?

Richard

 

[scottie]

I have a recollection that there is a restricter in the fresh water conversion kit for this very purpose but don’t see it in the parts list

 

[Tim 500]

Thanks, I did the conversion, using a Swedish “Martec” kit.
The kit came with blanking plugs to seal off the raw water by-pass from the cylinder head to the exhaust elbow, which are correctly fitted, else I would be losing coolant through the exhaust.
To test the engine I run it in gear at about 2200 revs against warps.

Tim
PS I believe the only restrictor in the system is the thermostat?

 

[Pete7]

Hi, I have reverse problem, have just changed my 2003 to fresh water cooling and it seems to be running too cold. Domestic water takes ages to heat up and the temperature gauge I fitted won’t reach more than 65 degrees C.
Have checked the new 74 degree thermostat and it’s fine.
NB the temperature sensor is where the anode used to be.

The Marine Parts Europe diagram shows a FW cylinder head has the temperature sensor at the front of the engine. On a RW cooled engine the anode goes into the block behind and lower than the alternator. I wonder if the temperature sensor is in the right place?

Pete

 

[Tim 500]

Hi Pete
On my engine the RW anode was above the alternator, immediately below the thermostat, this is now the temperature sensor position.

 

[emandvee44]

Re: Volvo Penta 2003 Cooling Result

Slight thread drift.
This Summer our boat spent much longer in the water than in previous years. We also spent a lot of time static, at anchor or in marinas.
Over the Summer I became convinced that the cooling water flow had diminished from what I remembered as normal. One indication of this was a change in the exhaust note. I also thought the engine was running hotter than normal (by touch on the cylinder head) , although no alarms.
In July I had the heat exchanger checked and rodded – it was fairly clean. At the same time I checked the jabsco pump and the impeller was perfect, but I took the opportunity to change it anyway.
We did very little motoring after July, but the perceived problem persisted.
We hauled out on 5^th. October, and I found what I think was the problem. There were several barnacles growing in the 6 saildrive intake apertures, which clearly would have restricted the water intake flow.
I am considering installing an alternative / additional through hull intake T’d into the saildrive seavalve/hose.

Any thoughts?

Thank you,

Michael.