Volvo penta 2002

[Chris2312]

So I have a few questions and problems!
My Volvo Penta 2002...
Is leaking diesel from the top of the injector,
It is also leaking diesel from a rectangle hole in the starboard side of the bell housing.
Recently engaging the throttle isn't increasing engine RPM.
When i put it in reverse on low revs eventually the engine cuts out
and lastly the last time i started the engine it ran for around 15 minutes i then noticed a smell and oil coming out of the exhaust.

My plan is to pull the engine out and 'overhaul' it replacing parts as i go. i have heard loss of compression could be the problem.

It would be much appreciated if anyone has any advice or prayers
PS why is the battery connected to a solenoid? cant i just get rid of the solenoid and power the starter motor directly from the battery?
PPS my Diesel tank is above my engine should there be a pump to pump the unused fuel back to the fuel tank?

 

[scottie]

Get total price of parts likely to be required before starting work
is diesel getting into oil
re PS probably because of insulated return wiring so no
PPS. NO

 

[Chris2312]

Don't see diesel getting into the oil

 

[VicS]

So I have a few questions and problems!
My Volvo Penta 2002...
Is leaking diesel from the top of the injector,
It is also leaking diesel from a rectangle hole in the starboard side of the bell housing.
Recently engaging the throttle isn't increasing engine RPM.
When i put it in reverse on low revs eventually the engine cuts out
and lastly the last time i started the engine it ran for around 15 minutes i then noticed a smell and oil coming out of the exhaust.

My plan is to pull the engine out and 'overhaul' it replacing parts as i go. i have heard loss of compression could be the problem.

It would be much appreciated if anyone has any advice or prayers
PS why is the battery connected to a solenoid? cant i just get rid of the solenoid and power the starter motor directly from the battery?
PPS my Diesel tank is above my engine should there be a pump to pump the unused fuel back to the fuel tank?

Fuel leaking from the top of the injectors should be easily rectified if it is from the high pressure fuel supply or the spill back .

The diesel leaking from the bell housing may be the above leaking fuel getting into the bellhousing.

Check the throttle by watching to see if the throttle control is actually moving the lever on the engine that it is connected to. If that is moving OK or if operating it by hand after disconnecting the control cable does not increase the revs you have a problem with the linkages in the regulation system ( an area where most owners fear to tread)

Lubricating oil coming out of the exhaust suggests a well worn engine

Battery positive normally goes to one of the large studs on the starter motor solenoid. This is the common positive connection for all the engine electricals

If your engine has an isolated electrical system (ie one which does not use the block as a common negative return You will have an earthing relay, a solenoid like component mounted below the starter motor. This is likely to be the case if you have a sail drive. This engine predates isolated saildrives hence the isolated electrical system and the earthing relay.

There is also a relay in the circuit between the ignition/ starting switch and the solenoid. This is because a solenoid draws quite a high current and it avoids sending this current all the way to the control panel and back again allowing lighter wiring to be used .

Look at the wiring diagrams in the owners manual. Both isolated and non-isolated systems are shown

The spill back does not require a pump

You will find a workshop manual at https://ab-marineservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/VOLVO_2003WORKSHOPMANUAL.pdf

Dont spend a fortune overhauling such an old engine. It may be better to put the money towards a new Beta or Yanmar

 

[AntarcticPilot]

So I have a few questions and problems!
My Volvo Penta 2002...
Is leaking diesel from the top of the injector,
It is also leaking diesel from a rectangle hole in the starboard side of the bell housing.
Recently engaging the throttle isn't increasing engine RPM.
When i put it in reverse on low revs eventually the engine cuts out
and lastly the last time i started the engine it ran for around 15 minutes i then noticed a smell and oil coming out of the exhaust.

My plan is to pull the engine out and 'overhaul' it replacing parts as i go. i have heard loss of compression could be the problem.

It would be much appreciated if anyone has any advice or prayers
PS why is the battery connected to a solenoid? cant i just get rid of the solenoid and power the starter motor directly from the battery?
PPS my Diesel tank is above my engine should there be a pump to pump the unused fuel back to the fuel tank?

You have two injectors; is diesel only leaking from one? It may simply be that the yoke that holds the injector down is not tight enough. If that isn't the case, you have a problem - the copper sleeve at the bottom of the injector may be leaking, and removing and replacing that requires a special tool (at least, Volvo say so, but I have heard rumours that it can be done without).
The solenoid is necessary because the current drawn by the starter motor is far too large to be handled by a manually operated switch.
The returned diesel is pumped out at the operating pressure of the injectors; more than enough to overcome any likely difference in elevation.

 

[VicS]

Don't see diesel getting into the oil

Fuel can get into the oil if the lift pump diaphragm is perforated. perhaps also from a defective injection pump

 

[DownWest]

Fuel can get into the oil if the lift pump diaphragm is perforated. perhaps also from a defective injection pump

Yep, I had that on a 4-108 with the DPA pump.
The VP engine has the pumps in the case, so the only indication would be rising oil level. Or, god forbid, a run away.
The fuel coming out of the bell housing??? Must be dribbling down from the injector, as mentioned.

 

[VicS]

You have two injectors; is diesel only leaking from one? It may simply be that the yoke that holds the injector down is not tight enough. If that isn't the case, you have a problem - the copper sleeve at the bottom of the injector may be leaking, and removing and replacing that requires a special tool (at least, Volvo say so, but I have heard rumours that it can be done without).
The solenoid is necessary because the current drawn by the starter motor is far too large to be handled by a manually operated switch.
The returned diesel is pumped out at the operating pressure of the injectors; more than enough to overcome any likely difference in elevation.

The OP says the leak is from the top of the injector. Presumably from the hp fuel connection or the spill back connection ????

.

 

[DownWest]

The OP says the leak is from the top of the injector. Presumably from the hp fuel connection or the spill back connection ????

If the HP connection is leaking, it might affect the RPM? Though usually the pumps just increase flow to match the throttle setting. Spill back to a tank above the engine is under a bit more pressure, so, if leaking, might leak a bit more than otherwise.

 

[Chris2312]

leaking from just one injector, don't know what HP connection is. how do i check if i have oil pressure

 

[DownWest]

leaking from just one injector, don't know what HP connection is. how do i check if i have oil pressure

The HP connector is the one from the injector pump to the injector. Running at around 170 bar, so be careful. Try tightening it a bit, usually a 17mm spanner. But they don't usually get loose by themselves.
Your questions make me wonder if you should get someone with a bit more knowledge to have a look.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

The HP connector is the one from the injector pump to the injector. Running at around 170 bar, so be careful. Try tightening it a bit, usually a 17mm spanner. But they don't usually get loose by themselves.
Your questions make me wonder if you should get someone with a bit more knowledge to have a look.

A problem I have encountered on the return line is that the original Volvo banjo bolts are very easy to break if over-tightened. Volspec at Tollesbury were a) not surprised I'd sheared it and b) provided a much more robust version that they had re-engineered (actually a much simpler design - anyone with a milling machine could do the same.

 

[scottie]

I think that from what has been said perhaps you may actually require someone with experience (especially of this engine) to look at the engine with you before attempting surgery!

 

[AntarcticPilot]

The HP connector is the one from the injector pump to the injector. Running at around 170 bar, so be careful. Try tightening it a bit, usually a 17mm spanner. But they don't usually get loose by themselves.
Your questions make me wonder if you should get someone with a bit more knowledge to have a look.

I'd emphasize that. DON'T play with diesel lines after the injector pumps UNLESS you know exactly what you're doing. It isn't difficult or complicated; the RYA Diesel engine course provides ample knowledge to set you up, but the consequences of getting it wrong start with getting severe chronic dermatitis and escalate from there. Diesel at high pressure is very nasty stuff indeed and easily penetrates the skin.

 

[Bilgediver]

Fuel can get into the oil if the lift pump diaphragm is perforated. perhaps also from a defective injection pump

This engine has a single element fuel pump for each cylinder. Fuel pumps are designed to have a minute leakage in order to lubricate the fuel pump plunger. However as the pump wears the leakage increases. This leakage on the 2001/2/3 and many other engines. such as Beta Nanni and Yanmar to name a few goes into the crankcase. This is one of the reasons for frequent oil changes.

 

[Chris2312]

Thank you, I'm going to be taking the Engine out tomorrow. I will be pumping the oil out I vaguely remember something, that i shouldn't leave the oil tank empty, i should replace the oil straight away, i cant remember why though. As i will be taking it Apart i thought to empty the oil tank and leave it empty until ive finished. would that cause any problems?

 

[DownWest]

Thank you, I'm going to be taking the Engine out tomorrow. I will be pumping the oil out I vaguely remember something, that i shouldn't leave the oil tank empty, i should replace the oil straight away, i cant remember why though. As i will be taking it Apart i thought to empty the oil tank and leave it empty until ive finished. would that cause any problems?

Nothing wrong with draining the oil and no need to replace it until you want to start the engine again.
As above, get some advice from someone with a bit more experience. Taking the engine out might not be necessary.

 

[Stemar]

Those are good engines, but they are getting a bit long in the tooth, and parts are becoming scarce. If fixes turn out to be easy and cheap, by all means keep it going but, once things start getting awkward and/or expensive, it's worth asking whether you wouldn't be better off replacing it.

I know nothing about the company, but these guys have a few engines at less eye-watering prices than new stuff.

Inboard Engines 5 - 30hp - AB Marine service

 

[Tranona]

Those are good engines, but they are getting a bit long in the tooth, and parts are becoming scarce. If fixes turn out to be easy and cheap, by all means keep it going but, once things start getting awkward and/or expensive, it's worth asking whether you wouldn't be better off replacing it.

I know nothing about the company, but these guys have a few engines at less eye-watering prices than new stuff.

Inboard Engines 5 - 30hp - AB Marine service

They are in the Netherlands and no cheaper than similar firms in the UK such as Marine Enterprises or West End Marine. However, my experience is that you really need to know what you are doing if buying a used engine that is not a direct replacement. Better for the OP to buy a good running 2002 such as this ebay.co.uk/itm/203909865034?hash=item2f79f99e4a:g:MakAAOSwvw9iWTXH

No connection but if that could be bought for say £1k it is a far better bet then fiddling with one that does not work properly.

In the last 6 months or so I have looked at many options of replacement engines and come to the conclusion that if it is not a direct replacement then a used engine (if you can find a good one) only works if you are prepared to do all the work yourself and are prepared to live with a 15-20 year old engine. For example, good Volvo D1 30 engines with around 1000 hours sold for around £4k. New ones are £6k +/-. OK if you are doing a direct replacement but if paying somebody to do the mods to fit where another engine was that price difference soon gets eaten up. This is my third engine replacement project so I know what is involved, and the first where I am paying somebody to do most of it, All I am doing is modifying the engine beds and preparing the bay (painting, insulation, engine box).

Really tough for those with an old boat on a tight budget and will only get tougher as inflation bites.

 

[Stemar]

They are in the Netherlands

Oops - I missed that. It was just a google.

if that could be bought for say £1k it is a far better bet then fiddling with one that does not work properly.

I agree.