RIBW
Member
Agreed. I shortened the stubby end of a normal allen key and now keep it (labelled) on board in my 'boat special' tools box.
Cheers
Bob
Volvo Penta 2002
- Thread starter GrahamV
- Start date
Cheers
Bob
38mess
Well-known member
20 years ago I replaced a small Lister for a VP 2001 on my boat, I measured and checked the bearers for the VP, when I came to drop the engine in the GB coupling was at a strange angle and way too low.
Remeasured and checked all was fine. It was before the internet but after a few hours the penny dropped, the GB is angled down from the level by 30 degrees. New bearers made up and she fitted a treat. It ran like a little seeing machine.
Remeasured and checked all was fine. It was before the internet but after a few hours the penny dropped, the GB is angled down from the level by 30 degrees. New bearers made up and she fitted a treat. It ran like a little seeing machine.
pvb
Well-known member
The engine was available with straight or angled gearboxes.
38mess
Well-known member
Yes I soon learned that
GrahamV
New member
I am on board now. Taken most extra bits off. I assume i can detach at the bell housing. About 8 nuts to undo rather than at the gearbox to bell housing join which has big bolts and involves the engine/gearbox mountings.Everyone is very encouraging. Early on I got some very negative replies when I said the boat had a VP2002. Anyway I didn't get out to the boat today but I am hoping I will tomorrow. Can anyone tell me what size hex tool I need for taking off the starter motor? And I wonder what else I won't have when I come to dismantle the engine. I'll try to take some pictures to keep it all interesting.View attachment 84515
Also can anyone tell me what's the largest file size I can attach?
GrahamV
New member
Of course i don't have the correct alan key but it looks like it is not essential to remove the starter. Can't post photos at the moment cos the ones my phone takes are too big. I have nut out how to reduce the file size.
GrahamV
New member
OK . I'm back on dry land. Everything is pretty much disconnected and I'n now waiting on some extra muscle. I'm getting too old to be flinging these things around the place. While I was on the boat I wrote on the forum by phone but I don't see the entry here, so if I am repeating myself it may not yet be senility but I'm pretty sure it's coming.
Of course I didn't have the right Alan key (hex key) but I did observe there is no real need to take the starter motor off. I just wanted to trim it all down to the minimum weight. I have removed all the 13mm nuts from around the bell housing (8 of them). I thought it might crack open a bit but there is no movement and so I am a little uncertain that I have undone everything I need to. I've taken the bolts out of the front engine mounts where they hold onto the engine beds. All the peripheral engine stuff is disconnected (the power is off) and I have taken the cylinder head off. Looking into the bores I see a bit of rust at the top above the uppermost rings I imagine. The motor was full of water for a while so assume this is a result of that. I'm sure it will all come off when I hone the cylinders. There doesn't appear to be any scoring or that telltale little bump you get when a cylinder is well worn. So I am hopeful. The sump and the front cover look very involved with each other and does anyone know if I have to remove the front cover to be able to remove the sump. I'm hoping not. The workshop manual isn't very comprehensive but does take the front cover off before the sump in its dismantling instructions maybe that's just because they go on to doing other things like removing the crankshaft. I guess I'll find out when I get it turned over. I've added a few pictures so if anyone spots a problem let me know please.
Of course I didn't have the right Alan key (hex key) but I did observe there is no real need to take the starter motor off. I just wanted to trim it all down to the minimum weight. I have removed all the 13mm nuts from around the bell housing (8 of them). I thought it might crack open a bit but there is no movement and so I am a little uncertain that I have undone everything I need to. I've taken the bolts out of the front engine mounts where they hold onto the engine beds. All the peripheral engine stuff is disconnected (the power is off) and I have taken the cylinder head off. Looking into the bores I see a bit of rust at the top above the uppermost rings I imagine. The motor was full of water for a while so assume this is a result of that. I'm sure it will all come off when I hone the cylinders. There doesn't appear to be any scoring or that telltale little bump you get when a cylinder is well worn. So I am hopeful. The sump and the front cover look very involved with each other and does anyone know if I have to remove the front cover to be able to remove the sump. I'm hoping not. The workshop manual isn't very comprehensive but does take the front cover off before the sump in its dismantling instructions maybe that's just because they go on to doing other things like removing the crankshaft. I guess I'll find out when I get it turned over. I've added a few pictures so if anyone spots a problem let me know please.
GrahamV
New member
I haven't forgotten about the forum. We have had some quite foul weather here recently and getting out to the boat has been difficult. Of course, when the weather got better his nibs took the boat sailing and got stuck into a few more urgent chores about the house. I'll be back.
MJWB
Active member
My goodness. I wonder how this ended. As I'm considering a boat witj a 2002 I'd love to know. Hey ho.
GrahamV
New member
Sorry about the silence but nothing has happened with the motor. It's sittibg there waiting to come out of the boat. Lots of other stuff has been happening. We built a new tender and did some work on the rig. Fortunately not much tide here so we have been able to sail on off the mooring.
Trentina
New member
Sailing and Yachting Downloads Marine Engioe Manuals
Anybody managed to download the 2002b workshop manual from this site ( saw it on another thread). Or where else can I find the 2002b manual. I need to change the Cyl head gasket on mine. (water turning oil milky, although it runs ok).
Anybody managed to download the 2002b workshop manual from this site ( saw it on another thread). Or where else can I find the 2002b manual. I need to change the Cyl head gasket on mine. (water turning oil milky, although it runs ok).
Trentina
New member
Frankklose, how hard a job was the Cyl head to do on the 2002b. Think I need to change my head gasket, starts and runs ok but started getting milky oil. It looks straight forward To get the head off, but wondering if there are any hidden tricky things I need to watch out for. Trying to find a Wksp manual to download too. Any advice welcome, Cheers
pvb
Well-known member
Trentina
New member
Many thanks indeed.
GrahamV
New member
After all this time I can let you know the outcome of this saga. My son saved hard and bought a new engine. We took out the old 2002 and I have dismantley it because I was curious to know why it wouldn't go. Long story short the rings were all gummed up. Apparently this happens when water gets into the engine and we know that water had been in the engine from the start. Now I have to decide whether to rebuild the engine and try to sell it or just cut the losses and throw it away. As far as I can tell it just needs the cylinders honed and new rings and bearing shells. I could probably get it together for about $400 AUD but really it's probably not worth the effort.
rszemeti
Active member
If you don't want it ... put it on eBay for $10 and see what happens. Don't throw it away, it might be exactly what someone else is looking for.
Sandy
Well-known member
If you have another VP 2002 you now have a source of spare parts.
GrahamV
New member
Good advice. I won't rush to throw it out.
GrahamV
New member
No. It's now a three cylinder Kubota.
