Stemar
Well-known member
Do you have the manuals for the engine? If not, have a look here
Sailing and Yachting Downloads Marine Engioe Manuals
Sailing and Yachting Downloads Marine Engioe Manuals
Volvo Penta 2002
- Thread starter GrahamV
- Start date
VicS
Well-known member
But you have to be registered with Blue Moment to download them
The owners manual is avaialble from VP via their Manuals and Handbooks webpage:- Manuals & handbooks | Volvo Penta
The workshop manual can be found at Manualslib:- VOLVO PENTA 2001 WORKSHOP MANUAL Pdf Download.
GrahamV
New member
Many thanks Sandy. I do have a photocopy of the user's manual and the owner's manual. In fact one might be a workshop manual. There is information on disassembly and reassembly. Some info on torques settings etc. I wonder if your workshop manual has more info so I would be happy to see it. How would you send it.
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Sandy
Well-known member
email sent.
GrahamV
New member
Today my son and I went for a sail. It was a race actually but a very informal one. The boat is pretty slow but I guess it is a cruising yacht and with a lot of bibs and bobs hanging off it I'm sure that it would be faster if it didn't have them.
I managed to borrow a compression gauge from a friend. It's meant for a car so it only goes up to 200psi. Last night we had put some Shellite (read white spirit) into the cylinders and so I am not sure what effect this would have had. The gauge, being meant for petrol engines, has a tapered rubber end so you need to push it into the sparkplug hole (or injector hole) and hold it while the engine is turned over. Results: No 1 cylinder 100psi and No2 Cylinder 75psi. Not quite what I expected so I put some oil into each of the cylinders and tried again. This time I was unable to hold the gauge down securely enough to get a true reading but I got about 180psi from both cylinders. I am sure you need more than that to make the engine go but it seems obvious (to me at least) that with such a large jump in compression with the oil in the cylinder that it would indicate a problem at the piston level and that problem is probably rings. It may come to pass that there are other problems as well but I feel compelled to research this one and so I am going to remove the pistons and have a look. I would love someone to give me a really good reason not to have to do this.
You may have heard that we in Australia have been suffering from devastating bushfires and that many a country town has been destroyed or badly affected. My son (the boat owner) God bless him, is off for a week of Blazeaid down the coast. He's a carpenter builder. So while he is away trying to rebuild the nation I will tinker with the boat all to myself. Wish me luck. On a similar note, I realise a lot of people using this forum are from the UK and you have just had a kind of divorce. I don't know if this is good or bad but I wish you well in the future.
I managed to borrow a compression gauge from a friend. It's meant for a car so it only goes up to 200psi. Last night we had put some Shellite (read white spirit) into the cylinders and so I am not sure what effect this would have had. The gauge, being meant for petrol engines, has a tapered rubber end so you need to push it into the sparkplug hole (or injector hole) and hold it while the engine is turned over. Results: No 1 cylinder 100psi and No2 Cylinder 75psi. Not quite what I expected so I put some oil into each of the cylinders and tried again. This time I was unable to hold the gauge down securely enough to get a true reading but I got about 180psi from both cylinders. I am sure you need more than that to make the engine go but it seems obvious (to me at least) that with such a large jump in compression with the oil in the cylinder that it would indicate a problem at the piston level and that problem is probably rings. It may come to pass that there are other problems as well but I feel compelled to research this one and so I am going to remove the pistons and have a look. I would love someone to give me a really good reason not to have to do this.
You may have heard that we in Australia have been suffering from devastating bushfires and that many a country town has been destroyed or badly affected. My son (the boat owner) God bless him, is off for a week of Blazeaid down the coast. He's a carpenter builder. So while he is away trying to rebuild the nation I will tinker with the boat all to myself. Wish me luck. On a similar note, I realise a lot of people using this forum are from the UK and you have just had a kind of divorce. I don't know if this is good or bad but I wish you well in the future.
VicS
Well-known member
The compression should be within the range 290 to 360 psi
Go ahead and inspect the pistons by all means but also check the bores for wear especially ovality . If badly worn you may find that replacing the rings or even pistons and rings will not give satisfactory results
Beware of spending shed loads of money trying to fix an engine that is beyond economic repair.
Fully assess the condition of the engine, including crankshaft and bearings and look at the price of parts, including gasket sets before you start any serious repairs. Sit down before you look up the prices!
It might be better to put the money towards the cost of a replacement.
GrahamV
New member
Vics this all sounds like sound advice. Fortunately, we don't have shedloads of money so spending it on the engine is not going to happen. I'm glad you mentioned the state of the cylinders themselves and of course I will be measuring up in all directions and having a very good look at the bore. I do intend to hone at least. As for the rest, I'm not too fussed. As long as the bearings that we expose are not completely shot then I won't worry. This is a repair not a rebuild. If we can get 50 more hours out of this engine then that should satisfy our needs. I believe the sump is glued on and I am glad because as you say the cost of gaskets is eye-watering. We always try to make our own or get it out of a tube. Fortunately there seem to be some non-proprietory components available. I doubt we will be buying anything from Volvo Penta.
GrahamV
New member
Friends, my next question is this. I am asking for opinions on the engine removal. Should I disconnect the engine from the gearbox and pull it forward or should I disconnect the whole thing from the prop shaft and pull it forward? Although it is heavier I am leaning toward the latter as there only seems to be two bolts at the flange and the gearbox bolts are awkward to get at. To quote a former Australian prime minister "life wasn't meant to be easy".
Stemar
Well-known member
When I replaced the engine in my boat, we pulled it back into the cabin and split the gearbox - no chance of lifting an MD1 with its huge cast iron flywheel without! Putting a 2003 in its place, we put the whole thing in with the gearbox.
Memory says we used the boom as a crane, but we must have reinforced it in some way, as I can't see hanging an engine, with or without its gearbox, from the middle of the boom of a 24 footer without an, err, interesting outcome.
Memory says we used the boom as a crane, but we must have reinforced it in some way, as I can't see hanging an engine, with or without its gearbox, from the middle of the boom of a 24 footer without an, err, interesting outcome.
pvb
Well-known member
I'd unbolt the gearbox from the engine - it'll make the engine lighter and more compact to handle. As I recall, there are only 6 bolts holding the gearbox on to the bell housing, and they're fairly accessible on the sides.
rszemeti
Active member
Sounds like you are on the right track. A set of rings and a light hone should sort it. I suspect you'll get at least another 1000 hours out of it. They are strong engines, too many people thses days are willing to give up on what are fairly standard maintenance tasks on engines, that only a few years ago would not have been unusual, I think we have got too used to disposable cars.
Ceejay
Active member
Worth replacing crankshaft main bearing and big end shells while the engine is apart, assuming the crank is not too worn and needing a regrind.
eddystone
Well-known member
Vp 2002 and “sweet” is an oxymoron
Daydreamer
Member
Have you tried one of the various makes of quickstart aerosol sprays that you spray down the inlet port. I have seen them 'start ' an engine with a defunct injector pump.
I had a poor starting problem with 2002. Did the head rebuild thing - made no difference. I had to get a compression test done (it can't be done with a petrol engine compression tester and I never did manage to find the correct adapter for this engine. ) The rear cylinder was down on compression, enough to make starting difficult. I could not see any sign of wear but apparently there is a standard maximum clearance between piston and bore and this was exceeded.
If you do a complete rebuild then get the engine out of the boat-it can then be tested before you put it back in.
I had a poor starting problem with 2002. Did the head rebuild thing - made no difference. I had to get a compression test done (it can't be done with a petrol engine compression tester and I never did manage to find the correct adapter for this engine. ) The rear cylinder was down on compression, enough to make starting difficult. I could not see any sign of wear but apparently there is a standard maximum clearance between piston and bore and this was exceeded.
If you do a complete rebuild then get the engine out of the boat-it can then be tested before you put it back in.
Beneteau381
Well-known member
Volvo Penta 2001 2002 2003 parts €225? not expensive for an overhaul kit. They will ship to Oz.
Sandy
Well-known member
I think my VP2002 is a sweet.
Simple to use, as long as you give it clean air, clean diesel, keep it cool and well lubricated. Simple to service as everything that needs changing is pointing at you. No complicated electronics to go wrong and no common rail diesel to seriously screw up your day.
It might not be the smoothest of engines, but that is why you have sound proofing.
rszemeti
Active member
More than happy with my 2003, which is basically the same thing with an extra pot. Simple, robust, reliable.
eddystone
Well-known member
If those characteristics constitute “sweet” then I concede it is so.
GrahamV
New member
Everyone is very encouraging. Early on I got some very negative replies when I said the boat had a VP2002. Anyway I didn't get out to the boat today but I am hoping I will tomorrow. Can anyone tell me what size hex tool I need for taking off the starter motor? And I wonder what else I won't have when I come to dismantle the engine. I'll try to take some pictures to keep it all interesting.
Also can anyone tell me what's the largest file size I can attach?
MoodySabre
Well-known member
When I took the starter off my VP2003 there was one bolt I couldn't get a hex on and I had to undo it with a large Allen Key with a ball end. Take everything or you leave behind the one thing you need!
