Volvo 2001

[schilde]

I have been to view a boat with a non-running volvo 2001 diesel engine. Apparently it was running the other day, but not today. It had a flat battery and no manual winding handle was available.

I turned the engine over by hand with the crankshaft pulley. I was surprised I could. Does this mean there is a loss of compression, and the engine might never start anyway? I am not particulary strong!

If we went ahead and bought the boat anyway, would I be right to guess this engine is not to hard to strip down and rebuild, in order to replace piston rings, regrind valves etc? Or is there a more likely problem we should look out for?

Many thanks

Steve



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[Rick]

Steve,
I haven't had any expoerience with the 2001, but lots with 2002 and 2003 which are essentially the same engine in 2 and 3 cyl varients.

Turning by hand should be achievable, however after 2 ir 3 revolutions you should hit a major resistance point on the compression cycle. If not, then all is not lost - in common with lots of high speed diesel engines in boats, people try to be kind and treat them with kid gloves, and use the latest and greatest lubricating oils, which together make for glazed bores. A change to mono grade SAE 10, 20 or 30 depending on climate with a CD rating and no higher, and then a long haul under load at full throttle, and the engine will likely have lots more compression, add several hundred revs, and dispense with the bluey / grey smoke.

As far as a strip down, you're right in assuming it's relatively straight forward, however be warned parts prices are not cheap - I'd contact a Volvo dealer and price a piston assembly, a barrel (can't remember if the 2001 is plain bore or uses a sleeve), new valves, and the complete gasket set. Remember it's a high compression diesel, so it's normal to replace the piston and valves, rather than just rings and a grind.

One last thing - the cold start procedure isn't doumented in the manual - it is:
-set throttle to required post start position (usually a fast idle, but maybe higher)
-pull engine stop level fully out, then push all the way back in
-operate starter.
The trick with the stop lever is that it works by pulling the fuel rail all the way back to a no fuel position. When you close it, it turns the rail thru about 30 degrees, and leaves it in over-fuel position. As soon as the engine fires, the governer flicks the rail back and to the preset speed position.

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[frilaens]

Hallo

I posted <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ybw.com/cgi-bin/forums/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=pbo&Number=522665&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post522665>this</A> earlier with some links for the motor. The gearbox spline problem might be something to look at. I was completely new to boats when I bought mine; and I have managed to look after my 1986 2001 with help from this forum. I got the most improvement in compression and starting from reseating the valves. The biggest problems I have is with the cooling system (raw cooling.) The exhaust elbow has been choked and is corroded and my engine is prone to overheating.

If I was to buy a boat with a seawater cooled 2001 now I would;

Check for the gearbos spline problem.
See how long it takes to start from cold - mine used to take ages, 30 seconds, to fire. Now with the cold start procedure and redone valves it can be done in 5.
Take the boat out and run the motor 80% (maybe need a rev counter) to check it's cooling performance.
Check for leakage in the cooling system (impellor housing, joints on the exhaust elbow)
Check the cost of spares for reconditioning the raw water pump, new diesel lift pump (the recondition kit is not much less), an injector and various gaskets.

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[dickh]

If you are still interested I would insist on seeing a good/new battery fitted(why did the battery run down in a week - sounds knackered to me!) and seeing the engine run - preferably be there when the battery is fitted and started from cold. If the owner is not interested in doing this be suspicious and offer a low offer to take into account any new batteries/engine work. Alternatively get a marine engineer to do an engine survey on it. Does the seller have any receipts to prove he has had regular maintenance/repairs?
Other points regarding starting & g/box splines/spares prices etc should of course be considered.

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I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[EdEssery]

Get a compression test done on the engine.

I have a 1986/87 Volvo 2001 in my boat and whilst it starts from cold OK in the summer (10-20 secs of cranking), in the winter it sometimes takes over a minute of cranking to get it going from cold. When it's been running once that day and is warm it starts instaneously whatever the season.

I recently bought a 1992 engine (the last year they were made) from a guy who was putting new more powerful engines in his catamaran. Before purchase I had it surveyed and run up - the compression on this engine is right at the top of Volvo's specification for the range of acceptable compression - it is very difficult to turn this engine over by hand. My current engine by contrast is pretty easy to crank by hand.

There should also be an audible click when you pull out the stop lever and push it in again to set the cold start procedure. You should also see the mechanics moving around in the engine when you do this if you have the oil filler cap off at the time.

My advice would be to get a new battery in there (or an emergency car starting pack) and start the engine from cold - if it doesn't start in under 5-10 seconds at ths time of year, expect problems and negotiate approximately £500 off the price to get the head off and the valves re-ground.

Good luck.

Ed

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[Trevor_swfyc]

Steve,

It sounds as though the seller is trying to pass on his problems, the engine started a few days ago but not today, battery is flat. Probably because he tried to start it and flattened the battery once he knew you were to view.

It sounds as though it is a private sale so buyer beware applies, as the parts are expensive such that you can soon run up half the cost of a new engine. I would take my money and get a more reliable boat if I was you!.

As for a starting handle, this model does not have one, if you can turn it over in the way you say then the compression must be so low it would not start anyway.

All the best.
Trevor

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[EdEssery]

Actually that's wrong some models of the Volvo 2001 *do* have a starting handle and a decompression lever to go with it. Mine has although I have never managed to start it by hand....

Ed

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[martinb]

Steve

As mentioned, prices are high for spares. I have just rebuilt the top-end of my 2001 and a head gasket set was £100, by time I added valves, an overhauled injector, impellor and thermostat, I was £300 worse off! A piston and a set of rings is £300 per cylinder, so even rebuilding the engine yourself is going to seriously damage your wallet. I have also had problems with a blocked exhaust elbow, which cost very little to repair, but could have led to serious problems, had I not noticed.
An advantage is the excellent dealer network that ensures the availability of spares in most popular cruising grounds.

Good luck with whatever you decide

Martin

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[frilaens]

Just wondered what the head gasket set contains for £100. In Norway, I recently bought a head gasket for Kr 290 (£25) from VP, which given that it was in Norway and original VP didn't seem bad. An injector was around Kr 1200, I think, just over £100.

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[Trevor_swfyc]

So its a starting handle that doesn't actually start the engine, therefore by definition maybe you should call it a cranking handle. I also wonder how you crank and take of the decompression lever. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif but if yours has one I stand corrected.

All the best.
Trevor

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[martinb]

Head gasket set is all gaskets and seals required to rebuild the head including head gasket, rocker cover gasket, valve stem oil seals, thermostat gasket, water pipe seals, fuel pipe washers etc.

Martin

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[EdEssery]

The cranking handle fits into the front of the engine. You then lift the compression lever on the rocker cover and crank the handle for all you are worth to get some momentum on the flywheel then with one hand you close the compression lever whilst keeping the handle cranking. You need to hold the cranking handle in such a way it doesn't break your thumb when the engine kicks as you close the compression lever. On a small diesel engine with decent compression this process will start it. It's not always easy but it can be done. I've started several diesel engines this way but unfortunately not my current Volvo 2001 as its compression is not good enough.

Best,

Ed

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[schilde]

Thanks

Many thanks to all for the information. In the end we (well Cap'n John really) decided to make a reduced offer on the boat, and it was accepted.

When we take delivery, I think the plan will be to do some more investigations and hopefully to see what a bit of thrashing will do for glazed bores etc. Then we will have next winter to see if more work is needed.

I'll post further updates when we need more help!

Steve

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[hudsonxx]

having read your comments with interest perhaps you could advise.My 2001 is always reluctant to start from cold. It has lots of compression, too much to hand crank for certain. mine will now start on the third attemp if we pull push the stop cable between each attempt, sometimes we can do it during cranking and it suddenly goes, i am reluctant to give it any easy start as i think they get addicted. I cannot hear any click when pull pushing the stop and wonder if this could be out of adjustment. is there anything exciting if i take the side off the pump housing to explore or is this unnecessary? comments invited. engine starts third turn when hot

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