Volvo 2001 banjo bolt torque setting

[Dipper]

Yesterday I discovered a small fuel leak in the vicinity of the supply fuel pump on my Volvo 2001 and this evening tracked it down to the banjo connection for the incoming fuel. I pinched the bolt up just enough to stop it leaking. Does anybody know the correct tightening torque for this please? The workshop manual didn't provide a figure. I always feel that I'm likely to strip the thread if I tighten it too much. It takes a 19mm spanner and I could apply an awful lot of torque with something that size.

 

[VicS]

Yesterday I discovered a small fuel leak in the vicinity of the supply fuel pump on my Volvo 2001 and this evening tracked it down to the banjo connection for the incoming fuel. I pinched the bolt up just enough to stop it leaking. Does anybody know the correct tightening torque for this please? The workshop manual didn't provide a figure. I always feel that I'm likely to strip the thread if I tighten it too much. It takes a 19mm spanner and I could apply an awful lot of torque with something that size.

Banjo joints usually / often have plain copper washers . It might be worth while taking the joint apart and annealing them. It should then be possible to get a leak free joint without too much tightening.

Heat the washers to a dull red temperature for a few seconds and allow them to cool. (Don't overheat or heat for too long.)

You should do this when ever the joint is broken a d remade

 

[pvb]

A 19mm spanner suggests an M12 bolt, and the Volvo Penta workshop manual says that should be tightened to 70Nm. However, apart from fitting new or annealed washers, I'd take a careful look at the banjo bolt itself. These can crack, leading to lost torque and air leaks.

 

[jwfrary]

I would doubt you need 20 ft-lbs

Advice about the copper washer is sound. I carry a box of them few quid of ebay saves the agro. I have a box of old ones in the workshop I'll get around to heating up eventually!

In a jam your cookers gas hob will get them warm enough, cherry red is the aim.

 

[Dipper]

Banjo joints usually / often have plain copper washers . It might be worth while taking the joint apart and annealing them. It should then be possible to get a leak free joint without too much tightening.

Heat the washers to a dull red temperature for a few seconds and allow them to cool. (Don't overheat or heat for too long.)

You should do this when ever the joint is broken a d remade

This is a joint that I had apart last year and replaced the washers. I've hardly used the engine since.

 

[Dipper]

A 19mm spanner suggests an M12 bolt, and the Volvo Penta workshop manual says that should be tightened to 70Nm. However, apart from fitting new or annealed washers, I'd take a careful look at the banjo bolt itself. These can crack, leading to lost torque and air leaks.

Ah. I've spotted that now thanks. I doubt if I got near 20Nm let alone 70Nm.

 

[Dipper]

I would doubt you need 20 ft-lbs

Advice about the copper washer is sound. I carry a box of them few quid of ebay saves the agro. I have a box of old ones in the workshop I'll get around to heating up eventually!

In a jam your cookers gas hob will get them warm enough, cherry red is the aim.

Thanks. I have heated them up on a gas hob in the past. I'm worried that the bolt appears to go into alloy which may be weaker than the bolt itself.

 

[penberth3]

A 19mm spanner suggests an M12 bolt, and the Volvo Penta workshop manual says that should be tightened to 70Nm. However, apart from fitting new or annealed washers, I'd take a careful look at the banjo bolt itself. These can crack, leading to lost torque and air leaks.

70Nm sounds far too high. A banjo bolt is hollow, correct torque will be a lot less than a solid M12 bolt.

 

[pvb]

70Nm sounds far too high. A banjo bolt is hollow, correct torque will be a lot less than a solid M12 bolt.

Looking at the workshop manual, it suggests 20Nm for the banjo bolts on the injector pumps, so I'd go for that.

 

[penberth3]

Looking at the workshop manual, it suggests 20Nm for the banjo bolts on the injector pumps, so I'd go for that.

OK, you'd better delete your post with the bum information, before somebody breaks one!

 

[jwfrary]

Torque is probobly a bit misleading anyway, snug with a normal spanner is right, they really dont need to be awfully tight at all.

 

[penberth3]

Torque is probobly a bit misleading anyway, snug with a normal spanner is right, they really dont need to be awfully tight at all.

Agreed, with good washers finger tight plus a little bit with the spanner. I've never even thought about using a torque wrench on anything like this.

 

[pvb]

OK, you'd better delete your post with the bum information, before somebody breaks one!

Not "bum information", the workshop manual states...

 

[penberth3]

Not "bum information", the workshop manual states...

View attachment 122028

That is obviously for bolts, not Banjo bolts.

 

[pvb]

That is obviously for bolts, not Banjo bolts.

If you want a real argument, go and argue with Volvo Penta that their workshop manual is incorrect.

 

[penberth3]

If you want a real argument, go and argue with Volvo Penta that their workshop manual is incorrect.

So where did your second figure of 20Nm come from?

 

[pvb]

So where did your second figure of 20Nm come from?

Oh, please try to keep up, read post 9 again.

 

[penberth3]

Oh, please try to keep up, read post 9 again.

Exactly. You were wrong to say it was 70Nm.

 

[pvb]

Exactly. You were wrong to say it was 70Nm.

I quoted the Volvo Penta workshop manual. If you don't agree with their recommendations, go and argue with them.

 

[Caraway]

A 19mm spanner suggests an M12 bolt, and the Volvo Penta workshop manual says that should be tightened to 70Nm. However, apart from fitting new or annealed washers, I'd take a careful look at the banjo bolt itself. These can crack, leading to lost torque and air leaks.

But it is a hollow fixing. It is not a bolt. 70Nm is far too fight for a fuel supply line.

Why not just say "Oh. Yeah. I see"?