sail drive anode is not a problem to change. the bit you may struggle on is the removal of the prop. It will either fall off (with a couple of taps with a copper mallet) or you will need a prop puller to get it off ! Once off the ring anode is held in place with a couple of m6 S/S couter sunk screw.
Hi Trio, most definately DIY. Just done it. Undo centre stainless steel bolt, spin off cone, tap prop off and as has been said there are two screws holding on the anode. Make sure that when re-assembling that you AT LEAST put Loctite on the ss bolt ... or replace it. A new one has a blob of 'Loctite' in a very small hole and is essential.
Sorry to hijack the thread but if nybody knows the answer to this it would be useful:
I have a Stripper on my shaft (ooh er /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif) as per photo. My anode has a hole drilled in it to take part of the stripper. Does anybody know if I have to drill the hole myself or do you buy a special anode?
Also, does the team think that my anode is finished? Lots of meat on it but looks tatty round the edges.
Don't mess about modifying a new anode. Ring Ambassador marine and for a couple of pounds more buy the modified anode from them. I fits, job done! While you're at it you might want to get an overhaul kit for the cutter as well.
You will need new bearings for the cutter in due course. They last pretty well, perhaps 3-4 seasons before grit wrecks them. They are made of special plastic material and just clip into place.
I give the Ambassador a nice brush down every winter with the wire brush on a B & D - brings the parts up shiny and sharp!
Your anode might last another season but looks like it's given of its best.. the Ambassador modified issue is worth buying - if anything comes adrift on passage you will pay a lot more to make good the damage!
I echo the posting that insists on loctite to hold the central cone bolt in place. I use it too on the two SS screws that hold the anode in place - you need best contacts to ensure connectivity.
One last tip - the cone should seat on a pastic ring. THis ensures the prop is held absolutely fast when the cone is applied. This is important - the prop should not move along the splined shaft by even the smallest amount - it must be locked up firmly.
PWG
Thanks Peter. As a man who lost bolt/cone/spacer/prop and cutter on the seabed I am getting to know that part of my boat well /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif