Velcro for roof panels

StuE

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I believe some new boats use Velcro for roof panels. I suspect this would be ok for light PVC panels, however has anyone used Velcro for foam backed vinyl stuck to thin ply sheeting. If so what type of Velcro have you used.

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rob2

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Not used it myself, the panels on mine are ply but screwed onto battens. Having said that, as the coachroof is quite curved, the panels stay up under calm conditions without fasteners. The screws just snug it up and make it conform to the actual curve, so there is little load on them - I guess if your panels are similar then industrial strength velcro will do the job just as well.

Rob.
 

VicS

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I believe some new boats use Velcro for roof panels. I suspect this would be ok for light PVC panels, however has anyone used Velcro for foam backed vinyl stuck to thin ply sheeting. If so what type of Velcro have you used.

Cheers

yes I have

Ordinary velcro stuck on with a contact adhesive

BUT

I used it in conjunction with a limited number of screws with covered button caps.

The screws will prevent it coming down if the velcro gives way but the velcro provides support in many more places than I would want buttons. Buttons partly for visual effect .

I put two strips of velcro on each surface at each fixing point at right angles to each other so that when put together they make a hash sign. That makes 4 points of contact without accurate positioning.

Still fine after about 10 years no signs of anything giving way

DSCF0854.jpg




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pagoda

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I believe some new boats use Velcro for roof panels. I suspect this would be ok for light PVC panels, however has anyone used Velcro for foam backed vinyl stuck to thin ply sheeting. If so what type of Velcro have you used.

Cheers

Our Jeanneau uses industrial quality velcro on the roof ply panels. There are no visible panel screws as a result. The velcro hook strips are about 50mm wide, stapled and glued to battens under the coachroof.
I replaced the ply panels in a re-covering exercise, using 6mm ply instead of the 5mm old French stuff. The velcro "ring" strips I both glued and stapled to the ply panels. ( I used stainless staples, the originals were bronze, which I could not find anywhere). I tried 4mm ply but found it very flexy and too thin to take staples.
I did not use foam backed vinyl, having seen what happened to it with age elsewhere on my boat:eek:
I covered the raw under side of the coach roof with 6mm closed cell foam (Hawke House), before re-fitting the ply panels- now covered in normal white lightly textured vinyl (also Hawke House)
It looks good and feels a bit cosier, and dampens noise a bit as well. The stiffer 6mm board still follows the roof shape OK and has not fallen off :D
I've used the closed cell foam to line/ insulate the forepeak as well. A horrible job, removing traces of old glue & crumbly foam , but worth it!!

Graeme
 

wotayottie

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I believe some new boats use Velcro for roof panels. I suspect this would be ok for light PVC panels, however has anyone used Velcro for foam backed vinyl stuck to thin ply sheeting. If so what type of Velcro have you used.

Cheers

Dont worry about the grip levels. I lost three front number plates off my Lotus ( low ground clearance and speed bumps) using the normal sticky tape sop I replaced it with velcro from halfords. No problems. OK I've moved the plate up a bit but if I do want to remove it for a track day for example, it now takes some doing.

TBH you are more likely to have problems getting the panels off than having them drop.

Staple the velcro to the wood.
 

richardbrennan

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I have vinyl coverd ply panels held up with heavy duty velcro. It's plastic and sticks to itself with an adhesive backing to fix it to the panels and coach roof so you need to paint/varnish the ply to get good adhesion. It's also expensive and made, iirc, by 3M. It's not often available in chandlers, I bought mine on line. The join is very strong but the adhesive does go eventually; after about ten years in my experience.
 

StuE

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How much

Thanks for the replies. For those of you that have used Velcro or dual lock, how much. Did you run a continuous strip around the perimeter or just pads every foot or so ? Its pretty expensive so I am hoping strategically placed pads would suffice.

Cheers
 

pagoda

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Thanks for the replies. For those of you that have used Velcro or dual lock, how much. Did you run a continuous strip around the perimeter or just pads every foot or so ? Its pretty expensive so I am hoping strategically placed pads would suffice.

Cheers

If you are using the original ply, which will have taken a slight set to the shape anyway, you might well get away with patches. Strategically placed.

If you're using new ply or ever so slightly thicker new ply, I'd be tempted to go for full strips ?

You can always do the most curved panel first by your chosen method, and then revise ideas should it not really hold well enough.

Graeme
 

wotayottie

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Thanks for the replies. For those of you that have used Velcro or dual lock, how much. Did you run a continuous strip around the perimeter or just pads every foot or so ? Its pretty expensive so I am hoping strategically placed pads would suffice.

Cheers

Are you sing thin ply covered with vinyl and foam? If so they wont be heavy. I would try a 2 inch square piece at each corner. That will likely hold OK but if it doesnt you can add some intermediates. No way would you need to go round the circumference.
 

richardbrennan

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My panels are held by pads, I think you would find it difficult to get them down if you ran a continuous strip. However, I do not have much curvature on them, they are fairly flat.
 

William_H

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Velcro

I found that the velcro (hook and pile) can be bought in 2 inch wide strips reasonably cheaply in bulk. In my case from a haberdasher. You also get it with adhesive backing although my experience with this was not so favourable. Attachment of the velcro to the structure is most difficult given that it can take some tug to get it separated. For this kind of job I would suggest large patches so that accuracy of alignment is not so critical. However velcro is for making things removable so perhaps glueing the panels up would be just as good if you don't have reason to remove them. good luck olewill
 
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For those of you that have used Velcro or dual lock, how much. Did you run a continuous strip around the perimeter or just pads every foot or so ?
From my experience of Dual Lock, one pad in the middle might be enough :)

Seriously though, the 3M web site gives the holding capacity, I would allow a bit extra to cope with chop. I've got a heavy shore power unit held on a vertical surface with a total of 200mm. I can only just manage enough force to break the bond, but once it starts to separate, it gets easy.
 

StuE

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Lights / downlighters

Ok so here is what I am doing. Glue PVC conduit ( mini trunking ) to the roof ( was going to use pine batons, however another reader suggested PVC conduit ).
Within the conduit 'frames' stick Self Adesive Closed Cell Foam ( Hawke House ).
Attach, Foam Vinyl covered ply using Velcro strips 5cm x 4cm along the sides + screws at each corner onto the conduit. I was hoping to put in some LED downlighters however I think depth might be a problem as I only have a 25 mil space. Anyone sourced low profile lights from anywhere ?.

Cheers
 

nimbusgb

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The panels in my boat range from about 400mm * 200mm to 2 large ones nearly 3m long and 400mm wide.

The ply I could get at the time was 6mm marine grade. The large pannels probably weigh in at around 7 kg.

I bought the standard 25mm wide self adhesive backed velcro tapes in reels from Hawkehouse and others.

The Velcro runs all around the perimeter of the board with the tape stuck straight to the glassfibre gelcoat of the ceiling recesss ( cleaned with acetone ) and to the vinyl overfold on the back of the boards. The adhesive bond to the gelcoat is excellent. I backed up the adhesive to the vinyl with 6mm stainless steel staples fired from a hand held stapler, placed at about 50mm centres. This has proved to be unnecessary. After getting one board to the boat in Greece I discovered that it was 5mm too long ( what happens when you use cheap paper patterns! ) so I had to rework one end. Removing the velcro was difficult even after the staples had been levered out.

The panels have remained in place in the boat for the past 3 years or so even with the boat being parked in Greece and inside temperatures regularly exceeding 40 C in the summer and approaching 0 C in the winter. Getting them out requires more than a little commitment from my fingertips because they sit in a slight recess but it's a great idea to not have screw mountings!
 

1bobt

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I believe some new boats use Velcro for roof panels. I suspect this would be ok for light PVC panels, however has anyone used Velcro for foam backed vinyl stuck to thin ply sheeting. If so what type of Velcro have you used.

Cheers

I have a 24 year old Yacht that all roof panels are held in place with velcro. I have only needed them down a few times changing light and altering wiring and they have gone back in place without a problem.
 

ditchcrawler

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When I worked in the super yacht fitting out business we used 3M Dual Lock extensively on headlining panels and wall panels.Never had any problems reported on motor yachts which crossed oceans at high speed.
 

Bodach na mara

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Ok so here is what I am doing. Glue PVC conduit ( mini trunking ) to the roof ( was going to use pine batons, however another reader suggested PVC conduit ).
Within the conduit 'frames' stick Self Adesive Closed Cell Foam ( Hawke House ).
Attach, Foam Vinyl covered ply using Velcro strips 5cm x 4cm along the sides + screws at each corner onto the conduit. I was hoping to put in some LED downlighters however I think depth might be a problem as I only have a 25 mil space. Anyone sourced low profile lights from anywhere ?.

Cheers

As I read this post, I thought of my own solution to LED lighting. I used LED tape stuck into 25mm mini trunking. I tried the 16mm stuff but it is too narow and restricts the light too much. The strip is stuch to the inside bottom of the trunking, which is then fixed to the battend that I use to hold up the sagging roof lining (the usual Westerly problem.) I used small wedges to get the base of the trunking level and fixed the assembly round the edge of the roof about 1 inch in from the curtain rail. The effect is of a wall-wash concealed lighting. Needless to say, I used the cover for the trunking only in bits at the ends where there are no LEDs. I have been looking for pictures of the job but can't find them.

I got the strips from an ebay seller tony_2010super very cheap. When I got it, the location was described as "London", but this item

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-3528-..._Lights_Fairy_Lights&var=&hash=item3cc8fe177b

says it is from Hong Kong. I got the 3528 strip as the 5050 stuff (which is brighter) uses more amps.

Light units are available from this ebay shop
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/HMS-Marine-Supplies-Limited?_trksid=p4340.l2563
but I saw some at Southampton a few years ago by Frensch which looked very nice. Uavn't found a supplier yet though
 

JimDL

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I work for a Superyacht manufacturer and asked a collegue today about fixing deck head panels etc with velcro pads (dual lock) for my refit..

He said for the best results staple through the velcro pad on to the deck head grounds. Once the position has been determined on the back of the panel for the other pad, to secure this also (6mm panel use 5mm stainless staples)... The reason given is the adhesive backing can weaken over time although the velcro stays strong, also to keep the pads secured in position should the panel be removed.

Jim
 

StuE

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What I have learnt so far

Evostik 528 does not stick to fibreglass & running full length batons is not a good idea ( that smooth roof is not so smooth after all ) .
So using small 10cm batons every 50cm or so and using CT 1 to bond them to the fibreglass - not sure it is going to hold though.
 
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