Van der Valk 23M in build

[rafiki_]

But seriously expensive for a 1 off

Of course you are right, making the mould etc for a 1 off makes little sense, but there cannot be many grp 1 offs can there? This Van der Valk is not a 1 off either, but this is their ipr and preferred construction method.

 

[Imperial One]

I think Yoeri must be slacking and have gone home already
No doubt he will reappear tomorrow and explain all about the time and effort taken

 

[Nautorius]

But seriously expensive for a 1 off

According to this ad the 24m hull cost £1m......yours as a second use plug for £350k. Not Cheap at all and seems crazy for a one off when Alu or Steel is available.

http://www.boatshed.com/mould_24m_displacement_motor_boat-boat-124313.html

Love the VDV pics by the way and loving this thread!

Paul

 

[Yoeri]

Dear all

Thanks for all the replies!

To be honest I forgot to tell you that it will also be a metallic painted hull, which will also need more attention and time to properly paint her than normal.

Rafiki, it is true that painting her is a quite labour intensive process. In our case it is worth the time and effort because we only build a few yachts each year and the fact that most of our customers want to make small changes in their hull/superstructure for example:

- Related to their interior layout choices portholes may appear in different places for each individual yacht
- Different bulwark (both deeper/higher and classic/modern design)
- Width of the hull (in this case we have built a widebody which is 60cm wider than a regular 23M CII)
- Integrated hydraulic platform

In addition, some may have desired changes in their superstructure.

It is not easy to compare it with a GRP hull because the labour and costs to make the plug/mould (are often forgotten) must be distributed over the number of boats that will come out of the mould. This gives easy manufacture but also many boats looking very similar. In our relatively small production numbers combined with the bespoke changes to be made to the hull and superstructure, our current production method is more interesting for our purposes (barring that we build aluminium ships because we believe in the many advantages and we are thus distinguished from other shipyards).

Interesting link! Thanks! Exactly Paul!

Yoeri

 

[Yoeri]

Hi all,

To catch up my little delay a bit and keep the thread as up-to-date as possible, I have just headed to the painting shed to make some new pictures.

As you can see she became white after the last series of pictures.

What has been done:

- Sandblasting and Conserving/Preservation
- First primer


They have now started with plastering/filling to smooth all the surfaces out. This will take a while.

What has to be done:

- Delta DB sound isolation coating (inside)
- More plastering and filling
- Deck plastering / levelling
- Sanding
- Final coatings

After the final coatings in definitive colour are applied and have dried out the following has to be done for the metallic coating:

- 3 days of sanding
- 1 day of cleaning and masking (taping)
- 1 day of spraying Metallic coat (2 separate layers) and after a few hours 2 layers of clear coat
- All the coats have to dry
- After drying out 3 days of sanding
- 1 day of cleaning and masking (taping)
- 1 day of spraying again 2 layers of clear coat


And in the end of course also:

- Underwater ship antifouling
- Waterline
- Antislip layers on the surfaces (if required)

will be added.

 

[Imperial One]

Hi Yoeri,

I notice the decks have a protective cover over where the teak will be laid - has this already been done or is that just to protect the areas where it will be applied? I know I should know the definitive answer myself but someone in the office just asked me so best to check with the man on the spot!

Mike.

 

[Yoeri]

Hey Mike,

Good question!

Good preparation is half the work! Fillers can fall off the filler boards and surfaces and accumulate in the gangways (being tramped down by walking of the workers).

Afterwards this will all caked and stick to the gangways and should be sanded. Through masking the floors remain clean and do not need to be sanded afterwards before the deck levelling.

Yoeri

 

[rafiki_]

Hey Mike,

Good question!

Good preparation is half the work! Fillers can fall off the filler boards and surfaces and accumulate in the gangways (being tramped down by walking of the workers).

Afterwards this will all caked and stick to the gangways and should be sanded. Through masking the floors remain clean and do not need to be sanded afterwards before the deck levelling.

Yoeri

You will more from JFM's Match 2 thread, the Fairline process is the same, where they mask off areas that are being walked upon.

 

[Imperial One]

Hi Rafiki,
I already knew they masked off the areas we walk on during build, it is of course common sense and good practice to do so - I was just wondering if for some reason the thick teak decks had already been fitted. Sometimes they are done early on in the build normally after initial paintwork is complete.

 

[rwoofer]

It is a serious endeavour this painting bit.

One question I have is what happens when you prang your boat? I presume you have to go through the same preparation procedures, which must be awfully expensive.

This is my biggest fear with metal hulls, trying to get a repair to match the original preparation, particular if the inside of the hull needs attention.

 

[rafiki_]

Hi Rafiki,
I already knew they masked off the areas we walk on during build, it is of course common sense and good practice to do so - I was just wondering if for some reason the thick teak decks had already been fitted. Sometimes they are done early on in the build normally after initial paintwork is complete.

I couldn't see any teak in the pix. If it were me, I would not fit teak until I was confident it would not be damaged by the remainder of the build.

 

[Imperial One]

The teak is always affixed after painting, it is just that I saw the cover material and wondered if for some reason it had been done before painting. When it is fixed into place it is always covered up by a thick protective material to ensure it needs no repair work before delivery - fairly obvious answer from Yoeri really, so as usual, it's just me being a bit slow post Christmas!

 

[Yoeri]

It is a serious endeavour this painting bit.

One question I have is what happens when you prang your boat? I presume you have to go through the same preparation procedures, which must be awfully expensive.

This is my biggest fear with metal hulls, trying to get a repair to match the original preparation, particular if the inside of the hull needs attention.

Dear rb-stretch,

Of course it will all depend on how big/large the damage is. I will briefly explain the process of what should happen if you damage (for instance) an aluminium hull with regular paint:

Typically a repair takes about 6 days.

Day 1: Cut open of the damage, sanding and priming
Day 2: Filling
Day 3: Filling
Day 4: Priming
Day 5: Sanding, cleaning & painting
Day 6: Unpack her from the coverings and delivery to the client


Metallic paint

When a hull is painted in Metallic, the process will not be different than a metallic coated GRP hull. In most of the cases the half of the damaged side of the hull should be repainted to get the nicest result, which obviously takes longer and costs more money. The process for repairing a GRP boat is the same as Metallics is also sprayed on a GRP hull. Thus, costs for these repairs are approximately the same.


In most cases our "regular" damage repairs are considerably cheaper than proper GRP repairs.


Yoeri

 

[Will_M]

I keep revisiting the photos within this thread and am still amazed just how smooth and curvaceous and alu build can be, a beautiful boat with whats clearly going to be a very high standard of quality finish.

 

[rwoofer]

Dear rb-stretch,

Of course it will all depend on how big/large the damage is. I will briefly explain the process of what should happen if you damage (for instance) an aluminium hull with regular paint:

Typically a repair takes about 6 days.

Day 1: Cut open of the damage, sanding and priming
Day 2: Filling
Day 3: Filling
Day 4: Priming
Day 5: Sanding, cleaning & painting
Day 6: Unpack her from the coverings and delivery to the client


Metallic paint

When a hull is painted in Metallic, the process will not be different than a metallic coated GRP hull. In most of the cases the half of the damaged side of the hull should be repainted to get the nicest result, which obviously takes longer and costs more money. The process for repairing a GRP boat is the same as Metallics is also sprayed on a GRP hull. Thus, costs for these repairs are approximately the same.


In most cases our "regular" damage repairs are considerably cheaper than proper GRP repairs.


Yoeri

That seems very reasonable.

I guess I was thinking of situations where you need to do similar prep on the insides, which is obviously much more difficult to do. Can you leave aluminium untreated on the inside as I always presumed the inside was sometimes more important than outside (stories of copper coins in the bilge etc)?

Do love the structural integrity of aluminium by the way.

 

[Yoeri]

That seems very reasonable.

I guess I was thinking of situations where you need to do similar prep on the insides, which is obviously much more difficult to do. Can you leave aluminium untreated on the inside as I always presumed the inside was sometimes more important than outside (stories of copper coins in the bilge etc)?

Do love the structural integrity of aluminium by the way.

You are right absolutely right rb_stretch!
On regular bases the inside is fully in tact because of the strength and stiffness of the hull. Also there is only a 100micron (um) epoxy primer (industrial coating) applied on the inside, which will definitely not break or crack during most collisions. Should the inside of the hull be damaged, in that case the inside will be prepared (and if necessary additional repairs will be done) for the epoxy primer, and coated again.

Yoeri

 

[Imperial One]

Caution!
Yoeri is at LIBS today, you will spot him by the clogs

 

[rafiki_]

This is stepping over the Business Development line for me. I'm enjoying the techie debate, but I don't think this forum is for plugging the product in a business way. Sorry.

 

[rafiki_]

This is stepping over the Business Development line for me. I'm enjoying the techie debate, but I don't think this forum is for plugging the product in a business way. Sorry.

Sorry all, my post is now meaningless, so please ignore

 

[Yoeri]

Hi guys!

Update again!
I have made some pictures (today) of the painting process of the 23M. Nothing has changed to the schedule and according to the planning she is still scheduled for painting at the end of February.

I have made some close-ups from the round shapes too.

Yoeri