USA Visitor Boating your Thames (Again)

[djones18]

I'm a member from the USA and count myself fortunate I found your forum again after 10 years away.

I ( the boat handler), my wife (aka SWMBO), and a friend (the crew), are back hiring a Horizon 4 Le Boat for the week of 20 April cruising from Benson Marina to Penton Hook. Ten years ago we went the other direction and had an excellent trip. Then, your great suggestions and advice helped us survive without injury and made the trip most memorable. You made us read Three Men in a Boat (To Say Nothing of the Dog) and we loved it.

We boat in the USA and previously cruised in France, Holland, and Scotland (Inverness to Fort William). Most recently, last September, we spent two weeks on the Rideau Canal in Canada. Don't pass this one up if your finance committee will approve it.

We've been away too long and would appreciate advice or tips you want to pass along. Again, you might be saying "thank goodness" we'll not be on the river with this Yank. As you may recall I did fly fast jets (RAF and USAF) over your country for 10 years without many complaints...except from the local residents and their livestock with whom I'm fully sympathetic.

I've downloaded the new River Thames app described in this forum. Wish I'd had it ten years ago. I've restudied Imray's Map of the Thames, scale 1:50,000. I've reread Imray's fine "The River Thames Book" by Chris Cove-Smith and Nicholson's "Ordnance Survey Guide to the River Thames". I've studied UK internet sites. Any new recommendations? I know the rules and I will obey, again.

We are interested in recent info, not in the books, you can provide regarding this route. We've never had a problem with theft when taking normal precautions. Any worries this season? We may moor up near Abingdon, Henley, Cookham or Clivedon, Marlow, Windsor, and Hampton Court. We're very much open to suggestions again.

We love to visit pubs, down a pint of fine ale, and hike/shuffle through the countryside; we try to make friends on our river trips.

Your recommendations, again, would be most welcome. If you're near the river during our week look for a Le Boat barge appearing craft, the boat handler, SWMBO, and crew.

Dave

 

[oldgit]

Your recommendations, again, would be most welcome. If you're near the river during our week look for a Le Boat barge appearing craft, the boat handler, SWMBO, and crew.

Dave

Hi Dave, not much has changed on the The Thames over last 100 years less over the last ten.
Doubt things will have changed much since your last visit except the odd new bridge or two.
Enjoy your visit.
Under no circumstances mention Brexit to a living soul unless you want your day ruined, ,
Just to get you in the British frame of mind, it snowed here this morning.
Speaking to my aunt in Michigan yesterday, apparently its snowing there as well.

 

[TrueBlue]

It's a shame you're not going upriver at all - Oxford is well worth a visit (as long as you avoid the overtly touristy bits.
If your boat can get under Folly Bridge, there are excellent moorings at East Street above Osney Lock and the Benson base say you should be able to get to the moorings (I contacted them just now).

As you're going downstream - you'll be going much faster than on your previous visit, so you may be able to accommodate a side trip to Oxford.

 

[ProDave]

Under no circumstances mention Brexit to a living soul unless you want your day ruined, ,

And in return, we promise not to mention Trump.

 

[DWT]

I remember your previous visit, I can't believe it is 10 years ago!

Your visit coincides with the Easter weekend so the river and moorings may be a bit busier that usual at this time of year. From Benson you will be going upstream if you want to go to Abingdon. Worth doing though if you have time. Dorchester is one of our favourite spots with a lovely walk across the fields into the town which has loads of history. Visit the Abbey tea roos if they are open, run by the local Womens' Institute.

Heading downstream the following are our favourite spots. Others will have their own:

Wallingford. This will be the first town you will come to. It's not the most attractive of the riverside towns to be honest, but there are some nice spots. In particular a very pleasant wine bar which also sells real ale. Walk into the town and turn right at the traffic lights. There are good moorings both sides of the river upstream of the bridge, but they tend to fill up quite quickly.

Goring: Good free moorings below the lock and some good pubs and restaurants. The hotel bar on the Streatley side of the river is very pleasant as well.


Beale Park: This is one of our favourite spots. Loads of free moorings and very peaceful, but it's in the middle of nowhere with no restaurants of pubs other than the café in the park, although there is a pub up on the main road accessed by footpaths and past a old church. It's a really nice walk


Pangbourne: Good free moorings, but they are very popular. Plenty of pubs and a good Co-op supermarket for supplies. We prefer the Ferry Boat on the Whitchurch side of the river.


Reading: best avoided to be honest (and I live there)


Sonning: Coppa Club at the Great House is good, with some moorings on the downstream side of the bridge


There are some good casual moorings between Sonning ad Shiplake with a couple around the islands at Shiplake, although there seem to be a few liveaboards there which tends to restrict the options


Wargrave: The St George & Dragon has a couple moorings outside. If they are full keep going to Lashbrook moorings on the right hand side. They are free for 24 hours and usually pretty quiet. It is a 15 minute walk back to the pub down a footpath and back road for most of the way


Henley: Plenty of moorings for a fee. We prefer the ones below Henley Bridge and past Phyllis Court. Steve of SRB Moorings collects the mooring fees


Medmenham: A long stretch of quiet moorings managed by SRB. A walk along Ferry Lane will bring you to the Dog and Badger pub.

Marlow: Some decent moorings, but they tend to be busy. Plenty of shops and restaurants

Cookham: This is a must stop for us. Peaceful moorings and plenty of hostelries in the village. There are also a couple of spots on the back of the lock island by arrangement with the lockkeeper. A stunning spot


The National Trust mooring places along the Cliveden reach look very pleasant, but we have never stopped there for some reason


The restaurant at Boulters lock has some pontoons, but depth is a problem


Windsor has places to moor on both sides, on the Brocas but watch the depth, and on the other bank up towards to railway bridge and leisure centre. Plenty of places to eat. We like a small Italian in a back street not far from the station, but the name escapes me for the moment

We tend not to venture much further downstream very often so my knowledge of moorings below Windsor is limited. I am sure others will be able to help, plus there will be plenty of people with their own favourite spots. Wherever you go I'm sure you will have a great time, weather permitting. The section of the river from Benson down to Henley is, in my view, probably the most attractive part of the river and relatively quiet.

I hope this helps. We will probably be on the river in that area at some point over the bank holiday weekend so will keep a eye out for you.

 

[djones18]

Hi Dave, not much has changed on the The Thames over last 100 years less over the last ten.
Doubt things will have changed much since your last visit except the odd new bridge or two.
Enjoy your visit.
Under no circumstances mention Brexit to a living soul unless you want your day ruined, ,
Just to get you in the British frame of mind, it snowed here this morning.
Speaking to my aunt in Michigan yesterday, apparently its snowing there as well.

Got it! Under no conditions including enhanced interrogation will I utter the B...word. But only if anyone who meets us doesn't mention the T...word. You know, the individual who can't remember the country where his father was born and regularly calls the BBC "the enemy of the people"...as if!! Besides, we may request asylum if our border with Britain is closed. :disgust:

Wait, wait, did you say snow?

 

[djones18]

It's a shame you're not going upriver at all - Oxford is well worth a visit (as long as you avoid the overtly touristy bits.
If your boat can get under Folly Bridge, there are excellent moorings at East Street above Osney Lock and the Benson base say you should be able to get to the moorings (I contacted them just now).

As you're going downstream - you'll be going much faster than on your previous visit, so you may be able to accommodate a side trip to Oxford.

Great. Thanks. We intended to discuss this with Benson going upstream a bit and Oxford East Street moorings might work well. Haven't checked the distance but I think we might make Oxford during first afternoon we have the boat leaving Benson at about noon.

 

[djones18]

And in return, we promise not to mention Trump.

Oh my gosh, you mentioned the T-word. Guess you will owe me a pint if we ever meet.

 

[djones18]

I remember your previous visit, I can't believe it is 10 years ago!

Your visit coincides with the Easter weekend so the river and moorings may be a bit busier that usual at this time of year. From Benson you will be going upstream if you want to go to Abingdon. Worth doing though if you have time. Dorchester is one of our favourite spots with a lovely walk across the fields into the town which has loads of history. Visit the Abbey tea roos if they are open, run by the local Womens' Institute.

Heading downstream the following are our favourite spots. Others will have their own:

Wallingford. This will be the first town you will come to. It's not the most attractive of the riverside towns to be honest, but there are some nice spots. In particular a very pleasant wine bar which also sells real ale. Walk into the town and turn right at the traffic lights. There are good moorings both sides of the river upstream of the bridge, but they tend to fill up quite quickly.

Goring: Good free moorings below the lock and some good pubs and restaurants. The hotel bar on the Streatley side of the river is very pleasant as well.


Beale Park: This is one of our favourite spots. Loads of free moorings and very peaceful, but it's in the middle of nowhere with no restaurants of pubs other than the café in the park, although there is a pub up on the main road accessed by footpaths and past a old church. It's a really nice walk


Pangbourne: Good free moorings, but they are very popular. Plenty of pubs and a good Co-op supermarket for supplies. We prefer the Ferry Boat on the Whitchurch side of the river.


Reading: best avoided to be honest (and I live there)


Sonning: Coppa Club at the Great House is good, with some moorings on the downstream side of the bridge


There are some good casual moorings between Sonning ad Shiplake with a couple around the islands at Shiplake, although there seem to be a few liveaboards there which tends to restrict the options


Wargrave: The St George & Dragon has a couple moorings outside. If they are full keep going to Lashbrook moorings on the right hand side. They are free for 24 hours and usually pretty quiet. It is a 15 minute walk back to the pub down a footpath and back road for most of the way


Henley: Plenty of moorings for a fee. We prefer the ones below Henley Bridge and past Phyllis Court. Steve of SRB Moorings collects the mooring fees


Medmenham: A long stretch of quiet moorings managed by SRB. A walk along Ferry Lane will bring you to the Dog and Badger pub.

Marlow: Some decent moorings, but they tend to be busy. Plenty of shops and restaurants

Cookham: This is a must stop for us. Peaceful moorings and plenty of hostelries in the village. There are also a couple of spots on the back of the lock island by arrangement with the lockkeeper. A stunning spot


The National Trust mooring places along the Cliveden reach look very pleasant, but we have never stopped there for some reason


The restaurant at Boulters lock has some pontoons, but depth is a problem


Windsor has places to moor on both sides, on the Brocas but watch the depth, and on the other bank up towards to railway bridge and leisure centre. Plenty of places to eat. We like a small Italian in a back street not far from the station, but the name escapes me for the moment

We tend not to venture much further downstream very often so my knowledge of moorings below Windsor is limited. I am sure others will be able to help, plus there will be plenty of people with their own favourite spots. Wherever you go I'm sure you will have a great time, weather permitting. The section of the river from Benson down to Henley is, in my view, probably the most attractive part of the river and relatively quiet.

I hope this helps. We will probably be on the river in that area at some point over the bank holiday weekend so will keep a eye out for you.

DWT: We also can't believe it has been 10 years and are delighted to be back. Thank you for all the excellent information. We'll use it for planning this trip. We forgot the River might be busy over the holiday period and will plan accordingly. Did we see you on our last visit? Le Boat seem to have upped their game with a better line of boats. Our last boat had several feet of duct tape around the bow which I assume was not for decorative purposes. If you see an old guy steering "Le Barge" with two younger (or young at heart) ladies giving him instructions please wave us down for a hello.

 

[Pump-Out]

One thing of which you should be aware:
The EA have cut the number of Lock relief staff. It is now much more usual to find a lock unmanned (unpersonned?) during what should be normal cruising/working hours.

Look out for the blue "Self Service" boards as you approach, and be prepared for "Miss Crew" to be operating the locks more than a decade ago.

 

[joejo]

Hi Dave

Good to hear you are returning to the Thames again.

We did meet briefly at Romney lock on your last trip and had some correspondence [cant also believe how quickly those 10 years have gone by]

As said by others not much has changed and the non tidal Thames is still a delight.
If you have a week from the 20th April then you will have plenty of time to do the trip. I suspect your Horizon Le Boat won't pass under Folly Bridge Oxford but you could easily go up to Abingdon / Sandford down to Hampton Court / Teddington and back to Penton Hook for the following Saturday morning.
This obviously depends upon how many hours you wish to cruise per day and which part of the Thames you want to spend the most time at. Hampton Court is about a 3 hour cruise from Penton Hook and is an iconic mooring spot, but as I am sure you remember from last time their are many other great places to moor.

It would be nice if our paths crossed again and enjoy your trip

 

[TrueBlue]

Hi Dave

Good to hear you are returning to the Thames again.

We did meet briefly at Romney lock on your last trip and had some correspondence [cant also believe how quickly those 10 years have gone by]

As said by others not much has changed and the non tidal Thames is still a delight.
If you have a week from the 20th April then you will have plenty of time to do the trip. I suspect your Horizon Le Boat won't pass under Folly Bridge Oxford but you could easily go up to Abingdon / Sandford down to Hampton Court / Teddington and back to Penton Hook for the following Saturday morning.
This obviously depends upon how many hours you wish to cruise per day and which part of the Thames you want to spend the most time at. Hampton Court is about a 3 hour cruise from Penton Hook and is an iconic mooring spot, but as I am sure you remember from last time their are many other great places to moor.

It would be nice if our paths crossed again and enjoy your trip

I checked yesterday with the Benson yard (as reported earlier and th ekind lady said that the specific boat would pass under Folly, with care and the Bimini down.

Some moorings are now charged by an unpopular car parking company. Those at Reading (good for a quich shop at Tesco) with no free period and Hampton Court has one night free, but you have to regiser by phone or on the web.

Canalplan says it's a one day trip from Benson to Oxford - but that's at canal speeds - thus for a first day you'd have to push it. 20 odd miles and 6 locks.

 

[Brayman]

We used to find it more convenient to moor at Abingdon and get the bus into Oxford in later years.

 

[thamesS23]

or there is the bus stop just outside of Benson's marina that goes there (about a 20-25 minute journey).

 

[TrueBlue]

or there is the bus stop just outside of Benson's marina that goes there (about a 20-25 minute journey).

Good heavens - what's the point of hiring a boat - and then going to a destination by bus??
For Oxenford, the approach can be majestic (depends on whatever the source boater has previously experienced) from Sandford (a slightly deep but wide lock - frightens some) the river winds around the countryside until you arrive at Ifffley Lock. In previous years it had a flourishing garden lovingly tended by a previous lockie. May not be the brightest at an early date in the season, but still a sight.

In a run up to the city, you may be accompanied by Eights and the occasional Four with a magnificent view of the Cathedral and Merton College (as seen on't telly). Even the winding channel up to Osney Lock has an air of peaceful calm as you pass by some of the Colleges residencies.


The moorings above Osney Lock are surprisingly quiet - given that the road over the bridge is one of the major roads into the City.

We're amateur choir singers and enjoy Choral Evensong for its music (-not especially churchy are we, but listening to the service - right in the middle of the 'action' - in some colleges there are no congregational pews, so you sit in with the choir relishing in all four parts of the harmony.
If you're lucky the organ will play a lusty tune as you exit - giving the Organ Scholar points for his degree. Merton College has an American Dobson organ with some fine pedal stops - and can be made to sound like a Wurlitzer (if no-one in authority is listening...)

The are pubs, some genuine ethnic restaurants in Hythe Bridge street (neat the river) plus all the usual stuff.

There's a lot to see - if you will, quiet back streets for atmosphere, Ashmoleean for art, Mathematical museum for quirky analytical engines, Natural History museum and behind it the Pitt Rivers museum - which is not what you would expect (not stuffy, and fascinating).

To my mind a day trip is ghastly, but if you're staying overnight you wont feel the pressure as you would if there's a bus to catch or a fixed meal to take - on a boat you can do as you please.


Enough.

 

[djones18]

One thing of which you should be aware:
The EA have cut the number of Lock relief staff. It is now much more usual to find a lock unmanned (unpersonned?) during what should be normal cruising/working hours.

Look out for the blue "Self Service" boards as you approach, and be prepared for "Miss Crew" to be operating the locks more than a decade ago.

Thanks for the heads-up. We'll be on the lookout for those boards. I'll pass to "Le Barge" Ladies that they might be doing some lock DIY'ing. They will be thrilled.

 

[djones18]

Hi Dave

Good to hear you are returning to the Thames again.

We did meet briefly at Romney lock on your last trip and had some correspondence [cant also believe how quickly those 10 years have gone by]

As said by others not much has changed and the non tidal Thames is still a delight.
If you have a week from the 20th April then you will have plenty of time to do the trip. I suspect your Horizon Le Boat won't pass under Folly Bridge Oxford but you could easily go up to Abingdon / Sandford down to Hampton Court / Teddington and back to Penton Hook for the following Saturday morning.
This obviously depends upon how many hours you wish to cruise per day and which part of the Thames you want to spend the most time at. Hampton Court is about a 3 hour cruise from Penton Hook and is an iconic mooring spot, but as I am sure you remember from last time their are many other great places to moor.

It would be nice if our paths crossed again and enjoy your trip

Hi Joejo,

I'm told the crew remembers you. Thank you for responding with good info. I think we may stay clear of the Folly Bridge, perhaps mooring at Abingdon before going downriver. I'm not sure if our boat insurance covers being wedged under a bridge and I don't want to be the first to test it. We like to cruise about 3/4 hours a day. We do intend to try for Hampton Court this trip and would welcome suggestions on mooring do's and don'ts there. We'd also like to moor near enough to Clivedon Hotel to walk there for a visit.

With luck our paths will cross again.

 

[djones18]

I checked yesterday with the Benson yard (as reported earlier and th ekind lady said that the specific boat would pass under Folly, with care and the Bimini down.

Some moorings are now charged by an unpopular car parking company. Those at Reading (good for a quich shop at Tesco) with no free period and Hampton Court has one night free, but you have to regiser by phone or on the web.

Canalplan says it's a one day trip from Benson to Oxford - but that's at canal speeds - thus for a first day you'd have to push it. 20 odd miles and 6 locks.

Thanks. I think we'll let someone else test a Horizon on the Folly Bridge. Pushing for Oxford is a bit far now that we are doing some serious route study. We're thinking of Abingdon with enough time to tour, visit a pub or two, and waddle back to "Le Barge". Quick stop for Tesco in Reading will go into our plan and we appreciate your advice on that.

 

[djones18]

Good heavens - what's the point of hiring a boat - and then going to a destination by bus??
For Oxenford, the approach can be majestic (depends on whatever the source boater has previously experienced) from Sandford (a slightly deep but wide lock - frightens some) the river winds around the countryside until you arrive at Ifffley Lock. In previous years it had a flourishing garden lovingly tended by a previous lockie. May not be the brightest at an early date in the season, but still a sight.

In a run up to the city, you may be accompanied by Eights and the occasional Four with a magnificent view of the Cathedral and Merton College (as seen on't telly). Even the winding channel up to Osney Lock has an air of peaceful calm as you pass by some of the Colleges residencies.


The moorings above Osney Lock are surprisingly quiet - given that the road over the bridge is one of the major roads into the City.

We're amateur choir singers and enjoy Choral Evensong for its music (-not especially churchy are we, but listening to the service - right in the middle of the 'action' - in some colleges there are no congregational pews, so you sit in with the choir relishing in all four parts of the harmony.
If you're lucky the organ will play a lusty tune as you exit - giving the Organ Scholar points for his degree. Merton College has an American Dobson organ with some fine pedal stops - and can be made to sound like a Wurlitzer (if no-one in authority is listening...)

The are pubs, some genuine ethnic restaurants in Hythe Bridge street (neat the river) plus all the usual stuff.

There's a lot to see - if you will, quiet back streets for atmosphere, Ashmoleean for art, Mathematical museum for quirky analytical engines, Natural History museum and behind it the Pitt Rivers museum - which is not what you would expect (not stuffy, and fascinating).

To my mind a day trip is ghastly, but if you're staying overnight you wont feel the pressure as you would if there's a bus to catch or a fixed meal to take - on a boat you can do as you please.


Enough.

Well, you have us reconsidering our upstream plan to go beyond Abingdon. Everything you describe is everything we hope to partake. Evensong sounds wonderful. Maybe we can get close enough to Oxford to go into town without getting wedged under a bridge.

 

[djones18]

Question from Dave here -- We will be cruising from 20 April - 27 April. Should we adjust cruising time and mooring up times for higher number of boaters during the Easter Holiday period? Anyone have experience on the Benson to Henley section during this period? I expect weather may play a part though I've heard all weather is tolerable weather for an Englishman and his boat.