Tripping line alternative

[rwoofer]

Having just bought a new and expensive anchor from my local chandlery, the subject of tripping lines came up to protect my investment.

I expressed my concern at the hassle of dealing with tripping lines, when the chandlery chap told me what he thought was the best tripping line method. He said that
- the main chain rode should be attached by a shackle to the tripping line fixing hole on the anchor
- the chain should be stretched along the anchor shank and a thin line (with a breaking strain say of 100kg) used to attach the main anchor attachment point to the adjacent chain link

The theory is that the thin line only has to keep the anchor angle correct whereas the main loading is taking by the chain all the way to the tripping fixture. If the anchor gets fouled, you simply haul on the rode till it's taught and then motor to break the thin line, allowing the anchor to be hauled up from the tripping point.

All sounds plausible when the anchor is correctly aligned in the direction of the pull, but what about when the tide turns and the boat tries to turn the anchor. Surely this would break the thin line?

Has anyone used this method of tripping line? Does it work?



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[BrendanS]

Hmm! not sure I'd want to go that route. Far better to buy a self tripping anchor if that is the concern

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[floatything]

Mine is a very inexperienced viewpoint - so please put me right on this one, but I think if I was in a position where I wanted the best holding I could get - then this system would not give me confidence - when the S'''t hit the fan the anchor would trip and break out when I didn't want it to. On the other hand - in reasonable conditions, I'm sure with enough 'tug' then yes this system would work and allow the anchor to be recovered. However - does the hassle of re-fixing (and checking / maintaining) the 'sacrificial' bindings pay off against the time taken to deploy a tripping line and buoy, and the reduction in confidence?

Interesting idea - anyone tried it?

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[Shanty]

This a technique for lunch stops if you suspect the ground may be foul, and then only if you are remaining on board. Not a good idea for overnight stops, and definitely not if you are leaving the boat.

The anchor may be expensive, but I bet its cheaper than the boat.

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[charles_reed]

And where would you

find one of those - a self-tripping anchor?

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[charles_reed]

Probably better than running the trip-line to a buoy is to attach an 11m line from crown to about 10m up the rode/chain.

This is rather more common around continental coasts than the line/buoy.

The only disdvantage is that you don't have an anchor marker - on the other hand it avoids the eager latecomer hauling up your anchor in the hope of finding a laid mooring.

Using an anchor for Mediterranean mooring it's a wise precaution to always have a trip line.

The only anchors where their design precludes a tripping line are the Danforth/Fortress type, probably their greatest drawback.

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[khc1970]

It all depends on what you are using your boat for.

I have a 20' cabin fishing boat, and I use a 5kg bruce rigged to trip with 10mm cable tie (you will have to experiment to see what size suit you). To day I've yet to lose an anchor, nor has the anchor tripped unneccessarily (the only time it tripped was when I used 6mm the first time).

However, this is the big but.
1) I only use the boat for day fishing around the Solent and the Needle.
2) I do not go out in anything more than a good 3-4.
3) I have a spare anchor wrap rigged up and ready to throw over if the main anchor tripped.

Almost all of the fishing boats in our club use this system without any problems, not to mention it save many anchor which would otherwise be lost (not just the anchor, but the chains as well as the rope).

Another bit of advice is if you are connecting your chain to the rope with a shackle, make sure you over tighten it. I have lost an anchor and the chain because it wasn't tightened sufficiently, the bopping of the boat in wave 'unscrew' the bolt out and all I got back was the rope.


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[snowleopard]

i've seen it done with cable ties.

not on my boat though, if necessary we either tie the line to the chain or put the line through the buoy and back to a heavy shackle around the lower part of the line so the buoy stays put above the anchor (not in crowded places)

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[MedMan]

Sounds a lunatic idea to me. I bet the chap in the chandlery hasn't got a boat of his own.

Use at least 10mm rope for your tripping line. Pass it through an eye on the bottom of the anchor buoy and tie a weight to the end - an old heavy shackle will do. The buoy will now stay vertically above your anchor as the tide rises and falls.

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[Gunfleet]

mouse the shackle pin with monel if you're not sure of it staying put.

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[duncan]

always to the point......./forums/images/icons/smile.gif

as ever, and already highlighted here, so many of these ideas get taken out of context and as such become 'lunatic ideas'.

small fishing craft tend to anchor in in places that any sensible boater would simply dismiss for anchoring full stop.
Equally ideas that work fine in sensible anchorages can create problems elsewhere - a tripping line in 150ft of water and 3 knots of tide will often end up wound around the main line becoming useless for tripping, and I have even seen the tidal force acting on a tripping line buoy trip the anchor!

Anchors rigged as described intitially should never be used if the boat is to be left unattended and the anchor should never be left rigged in this way either (1) if you have cause to deploy the anchor for safety reasons you will not want to do so rigged like this and wont have time to change it then (2) cable ties get nicked and cut easily on stowing so should always be used fresh.

Equally tripping lines rigged as suggested in anchorages are an excellent idea too.

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[khc1970]

Thanks for the suggestion.

I now tie the pin to the shackle with 60lb mono over and over and over and over and ..... (you get the picture ). There's no way the pin will work itself loose.

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[aitchw]

<The only anchors where their design precludes a tripping line are the Danforth/Fortress type, probably their greatest drawback. >

Charles, my Danforth type anchor has a ring in the crown which I assumed was for a tripping line. I haven't had cause to rig it as yet but was happy that I could if needed.

Am I wrong to think this is what the ring is for? Does it have some other purpose. I am a dinghy sailor getting into small cruiser sailing so asking in all innocense.

My normal anchorage is on a sandy bottom but very sheltered and the 15lb Danforth holds better than my 10lb CQR. I don't need the line in that location but may when we are pottering about on Loch Torridon which is very rocky generally.

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[Dave_Knowles]

Have you looked at the Sarca which does not need a tripping line due to it's cleaver design?



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Dave
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[BrendanS]

Re:Well you could look here

for a start

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://anchorright.co.uk/index.php?id=uk>http://anchorright.co.uk/index.php?id=uk</A>

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[charles_reed]

Well thanks for that

but my doubts as follow:-

far higher weight anchor required than most competitors except Bruce.
Low likelihood of success in freeing fouled anchor unless shank is virtually horizontal
penetration unproven and likely to be low.
a nightmare to stow

In fact a Spade with slots and at an inflated price.

I'll leave it to others to try first - I'd opine it will be another "good idea" to disappear without trace.

I'll stick with a proven anchor and trip-line

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[charles_reed]

and cheaper

than monel or even stainless

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[charles_reed]

Yep

think it's got more disadvantages than advantages - mainly weight, stowage difficulty and cost and doubts about it's penetration power and being able to trip in any but ideal conditions.

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[charles_reed]

Tripping Danforth

probably that's the intention.
However I've found that when you start pulling on the crown the peices on the back which cause the main flukes to bury seem to dig themselves in, or it's the long bar that frequently gets trapped.

I'd vouch for the fact that in mud or soft sand they're probably the best anchor going and I've got one as #2 kedge.
Having had to buoy and slip it twice and return with diving gear to recover it I only use it in clear ground as the above.

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[BrendanS]

Re: Well thanks for that

It's possible faults have been discussed here many times, along with the German Bugel anchor, but it does appear to be very well tried and tested in Australia. Would be nice to find some people who have actually got one to post their experiences

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