Treadmaster Removal - advice please

[Wandering Star]

My Dufour 2800 has the decks sheathed with Treadmaster which is in VERY poor condition and i want to strip it all off and then paint the decks. I’ve searched for articles on the easiest way of achieving this and know it’ll be a mammoth task but it has to be done! As a result of my research, I’ve purchased secondhand a Fein Multitool but I still have an eclectic mix of questions before I start …..…

1. The GRP deck under the Treadmaster has a moulded in non slip surface (pimples), once I start stripping the Treadmaster off, will the underlying glue/epoxy/adhesive come off with the Treadmaster covering or will it remain ingrained in between the pimples of the moulded GRP surface In which case how will I clean the residue off?

2. How can identify which type of adhesive was used when the Treadmaster was first laid?

3. What blade should I be using in the Fein Multitool?

4. My boats on a swinging mooring, will a small portable generator (Honda EU 1.0) be powerful enough to run the Fein Multitool? To be honest I wish I’d bought a cordless model but didn’t think it through and too late now!

5. Which deckpaint would you recommend bearing in mind the non slip surface of the GRP.

Any other pieces of advice welcome. For example I wonder if a rotary steel brush head mounted in a grinder would be too brutal for cleaning up the old adhesive prior to painting? In another life I used this method for cleaning the adhesive off a geriatric Westerly deckhead when I replaced the headlining and very effective it was too!

Thanks for any advice - I’m not looking forward to this!

 

[penfold]

A hot air gun would help but you'll need to be alongside somewhere with power or have a bigger generator to run one; a roofers gas torch might do but the potential for going wrong is rather greater. A multitool is only 2-300w so a 1kw generator will run it with no bother.

 

[Tranona]

I found this youtube on removal of Treadmaster most useful before I started on mine
youtube.com/watch?v=qlAyxaK-IRc

Note that he used a flexible blade, but the real work was done by the grinder to remove the adhesive. I think you will find that the top layer will come off fairly easily as from the photos much of it is degraded already. This will leave the fibre type base layer and the adhesive which will be extremely difficult to remove particularly as there is the moulded in surface. As on the video suspect you will have to tackle this with a grinder, but you won't really know until you get there. He used Kiwigrip which is good because it deal with imperfect surfaces better than other deck paints.

I used a sander with 60 grade paper once I was down to essentially the adhesive, but I laid teak strips on CT1 which hides any imperfections. Also my deck is epoxy sheathed ply and the sheathing is thin so did not want to use anything too aggressive. I used a chisel as it was convenient for the space I was working in (top of coachroof either side of the companionway) while standing in the cockpit. Took about 4 hours to do just under half a square metre. The next job in the winter is doing the cockpit benches and locker lids. These are plain ply and about half of the area is removable so I can take it home. For the rest I shall use my Parkside multitool and experiment with the 2 types of blade I have, one a flexi and the other similar profile to a chisel. Both 6cm wide.

 

[Goldie]

My Dufour 2800 has the decks sheathed with Treadmaster which is in VERY poor condition and i want to strip it all off and then paint the decks. I’ve searched for articles on the easiest way of achieving this and know it’ll be a mammoth task but it has to be done! As a result of my research, I’ve purchased secondhand a Fein Multitool but I still have an eclectic mix of questions before I start …..…

1. The GRP deck under the Treadmaster has a moulded in non slip surface (pimples), once I start stripping the Treadmaster off, will the underlying glue/epoxy/adhesive come off with the Treadmaster covering or will it remain ingrained in between the pimples of the moulded GRP surface In which case how will I clean the residue off?

2. How can identify which type of adhesive was used when the Treadmaster was first laid?

3. What blade should I be using in the Fein Multitool?

4. My boats on a swinging mooring, will a small portable generator (Honda EU 1.0) be powerful enough to run the Fein Multitool? To be honest I wish I’d bought a cordless model but didn’t think it through and too late now!

5. Which deckpaint would you recommend bearing in mind the non slip surface of the GRP.

Any other pieces of advice welcome. For example I wonder if a rotary steel brush head mounted in a grinder would be too brutal for cleaning up the old adhesive prior to painting? In another life I used this method for cleaning the adhesive off a geriatric Westerly deckhead when I replaced the headlining and very effective it was too!

Thanks for any advice - I’m not looking forward to this!

My Dufour 2800 has the decks sheathed with Treadmaster which is in VERY poor condition and i want to strip it all off and then paint the decks. I’ve searched for articles on the easiest way of achieving this and know it’ll be a mammoth task but it has to be done! As a result of my research, I’ve purchased secondhand a Fein Multitool but I still have an eclectic mix of questions before I start …..…

1. The GRP deck under the Treadmaster has a moulded in non slip surface (pimples), once I start stripping the Treadmaster off, will the underlying glue/epoxy/adhesive come off with the Treadmaster covering or will it remain ingrained in between the pimples of the moulded GRP surface In which case how will I clean the residue off?

2. How can identify which type of adhesive was used when the Treadmaster was first laid?

3. What blade should I be using in the Fein Multitool?

4. My boats on a swinging mooring, will a small portable generator (Honda EU 1.0) be powerful enough to run the Fein Multitool? To be honest I wish I’d bought a cordless model but didn’t think it through and too late now!

5. Which deckpaint would you recommend bearing in mind the non slip surface of the GRP.

Any other pieces of advice welcome. For example I wonder if a rotary steel brush head mounted in a grinder would be too brutal for cleaning up the old adhesive prior to painting? In another life I used this method for cleaning the adhesive off a geriatric Westerly deckhead when I replaced the headlining and very effective it was too!

Thanks for any advice - I’m not looking forward to this!

I once wintered alongside someone facing the same task. As an experiment, I loaned him my Bosch Power Chisel and he was so delighted with the result that the tool was returned with a bottle of decent Malt. Bosch no longer make that tool AFAIK, but I think other manufacturers make something similar.

 

[harvey38]

Five things you need for the job -

A heat gun, work in small areas about a foot square, heat the Treadmaster evenly until very hot.

A multitool with a non-serrated scraper bit under the Treadmaster to get the majority of it off.

A power chisel with a very sharp bit to remove the residual material.

Patience.

Good knees.

A horrible job but if it's any consolation, very rewarding.

 

[Concerto]

A 2" wide chisel blade that you keep sharpened works extremely well to cut theough the adhesive layer. You then need to sand the adhesive off. The texture of the gel coat will make little difference as it will be fully gel coat. Just ensure the deck is smooth and then use a deck paint. Interdeck is good, but KiwiGrip is slightly more textured if the deck is not smooth enough.



This shows the wide chisel blade lifting some TreadMaster. One thing you should watch out for is osmosis. If water had become trapped under the TreadMaster, osmosis can start. I found some osmosis under a cockpit seat, so this will need grinding back and filling. I recommend using Terosn Gel Coat Filler.

 

[FairweatherDave]

Being blunt I'm not sure I would want to do that job on a swinging mooring at all. Not saying it can't be done but for me it is a winter ashore job with shore power. I tried my multi tool but preferred the power chisel.

 

[Wandering Star]

Thanks everyone, I feel more confident now but think Fairweather Dave’s advice to leave the job until I’m ashore is probably quite sensible. I also need to strip about a million layers of antifouling off her bottom so I might as well do the two jobs at the same time - thats my winter pleasures & entertainment sorted!

 

[Tranona]

Both of those jobs are killers. Make life easy by giving Dan a call and get him to do the hull ready for epoxy and AF (or even Coppercoat if you intend keeping the boat). Best decision you will ever make for your boat and your sanity.
southerndustlessblasting.uk

 

[Wandering Star]

Oh, thanks for that, I did speak to Symblast in Verwood but they wanted me to take Wild Oat to Cobbs Quay not Davis’s. Cost of lift in/out plus storage just didn’t work! I’ll see if your man could do the doings in Davis’s which would be much cheaper.

 

[srm]

I am removing a similar product, but with a smooth surface, for the same reason. On larger surfaces a small power plane was very effective. For small areas the Bosch power chisel with a narrow flat blade lifts it off. I found the wide blade a lot slower and less effective. This leaves a hard glue residue on my decks that a random orbital sander shifts, or a small detail sander with course grit, all be it with a lot of dust and slowly.
If you are painting the glue may have filled some of the moulded none slip, any gaps could be faired with epoxy filler and the deck coated with epoxy primer before your none slip of choice. I will be using International as I used it on a steel boat in the past and can also get it here.

 

[Tranona]

Yes, Paul at Symblast is not allowed in Davis's as he blotted his copybook there many years ago and they have long memories!. I have used him twice, both times in the club. OK but you always get a feeling that something is not quite right. Dan now does all the work in the club and did the bilge plates on the GH. Reliable and always cleans up neatly. He charged less for doing the 2 plates than Paul did for just the keel on the Bavaria

 

[V1701]

I know some people like it but Treadmaster is the marine equivalent of artex...

 

[Wandering Star]

Yes, Paul at Symblast is not allowed in Davis's as he blotted his copybook there many years ago and they have long memories!. I have used him twice, both times in the club. OK but you always get a feeling that something is not quite right. Dan now does all the work in the club and did the bilge plates on the GH. Reliable and always cleans up neatly. He charged less for doing the 2 plates than Paul did for just the keel on the Bavaria

Just spoken with Dan who told me Davis’s don’t allow any sort of blasting in the yard. So I spoke with Lance in Davis’s and he confirmed this, he also told me notmany yards nowadays do allow it because the operators leave behind too much of a mess! He said I’d have to scrape all the antifouling off by hand.

I might try and find a different yard which will allow blasting, for storing the boat in this Winter. Any ideas?

 

[Tranona]

Ridge Wharf possibly.
Lance is out of date and been listening to Barry too much!. Dan leaves no mess. He has done maybe 10 boats in the club this year in the area to the left just inside the gate which is tarmacced. He lays sheet all round, sheets the boat and collects the medium up, takes it away and recycles it. He does the lower part of the travelhoist as well. You can't see where he has been.

Actually might be worth asking Lance if he will scrape it for you, although the benefit of blasting is you get the keel done better than you can prepare it yourself.

 

[saxonpirate]

I know some people like it but Treadmaster is the marine equivalent of artex...

You mean you don't like it ??? I've been using it on my deckhead for years.. looks a treat.. artex that is not treadmaster..