Trailer for my planned boat trip

I doubt you will be able to buy a tool to remove the wheel nut without damage. The star shape you refer to is probably uniqueish and requires the right 'key'. The screwfix thing should remove the nut, probably destroying it in the process, but it gets you out of a hole.

The only other solution may be to find out the manufacturer of the locking nuts and talk to them if poss.
 
Hi, here is the pic! Looks like I'm going to have to drill it out...
T
nuts.jpg
 
Easy to remove a locking nut, use a stud extractor or a decent set of stillsons.

Done an SBS bearing change, they can supply factory exchange hubs or you can buy a bearing kit.
Tap the centre cap off the hub which will reveal a single flanged nut, this is thrown away after you remove it.
Once the hubs are off you will need a hydraulic bearing press to get the bearings out of the hub(& put the new set in) a set if circlip pliers (& muscles like Arnie shwartz, to put the circlips back in) & a torque wrench capable of 300ftlb's of torque to put the rebuilt hubs back on.(truck size)
The brake shoes are easy peasy, cheaper to take them to a truck spares place & have the originals relined & powdercoated (approx 3rd of the price of new with better linnings).
Takes about a day if you have access to the tools, straightforward enough though.
 
I've got the bearings and pads coming tomorrow. I've managed to get one of the locking nuts off tonight with a par of grips, but stillsons don't have enough space to grip. Going to try a set of mollgrips tomorrow.

Looking at the one of taken off it needs a damn good clean all appers to be in working order. The bearings are wiggling in their outers, I presume that's bad? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif literally almost coming out of their sockets.

Can I just bash the bearings out with a lump of wood an mallet? Don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, will have to hire...bugger.

T
 
Im talking a few years ago now (2000) & yours maybe a different design but if I remember right the bearings are a 1 piece set, they are approx 2inches wide & to get them in without a press would probably damage them.
They need to be pressed in perfectly square otherwise they will not go in hence drifting them in with a hammer might not be a great idea.

The circlip is on the inner face of the bearing recessed into a groove in the hub & holds the bearing in, it also holds a plastic seal against the bearing.

On the advice of SBS the hub retaining nut is a one time only part, once torqued & removed it's a throw away item.
So you will need a new set of these (£1.50 each they were, so better safe than sorry).

Yes you will need to hire the torque wrench or find someone you know in a garage, from memory the one I used was approx 5ft long!
I managed to get mine done at work in the workshop.

PS, While the hubs are off check the Bowden cables, if they are binding or stiff replace them at the same time.

Once all back together it's like owning a new trailer, there should be no latteral play in the hubs & they should rotate very smooth.
 
Most decent tyre replacement companies (Kwickfit, Nationwide, ATS etc) will have a tool for undoing locking nuts, as will the AA and RAC. Waste of time having locking nuts on a trailer.
 
Enterprise, it says in the manual do not use a press to put in bearings, I'm going to see how easy they are to get out first. Then call SBS to find out what the deal is! :S

Also just looked at the existing pads on the one wheel so far and there is 3-4mm left on the shoes...just seen what SBS have charged me 27 quid a shoe! They might go back then...holy crap...lol

Cheers
T
 
Yay. It's all turning into the typical second hand sale nightmare. Had two wheels off, bearings knackered on both so far, I expect the rest to be the same....and now? All cables totally rusted and need replacing as well as the main cable to the plunger...all good fun.

Paul if your trailer was bigger I should have gone for it. Now a complete renovation nightmare on my hands. Given that the 2600B is 2K plus VAT I'll be only the VAT short by the time I've fixed this bloody thing.

T
 
Sorry to hear about the condition. I know trailers do get put in water but I will do anything I can to keep mine out of seawater as everthing corrodes. Once you have done all this work you will know your trailer and you will be confident everthing is in A1 condition. Good Luck.

I was actually asking Lanason how much the trailer he depicted cost.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Waste of time having locking nuts on a trailer.

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't agree with that at all. It's not necessarily the cost of a nicked wheel or two (or even four /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif) that's the problem, it's the inconvenience.

What do you do if you come ashore late on a Sunday afternoon to haul the boat out and set off home only to find a wheel gone? Granted, as we've already discovered there are bits of kit easily available which will remove locking nuts without the key, but if someone's looking to "borrow" a wheel I bet they'll go for your nice easy nuts /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif before they find something to get my locking ones off.

Just my 2p worth, and all imho.
 
Don't know the cost as I bought it with the boat.
But I guess around £3,000 to £3,500 new.

It lifted the rear of a lightweight land rover clean over the ground when we launched the first time as the combination reversed at the top of the slipway.

built like the proverbial outhouse
 
Yes, I know the pads are a hefty price, take the old one's & have them relined, (truck & trailer spares), they come back like new, powdercoated etc.

Not sure where in the manual it would say dont use a press, unless they are of a different design to the one's we did, I sure wouldn't have thought smashing them with a mallet while trying to start them off square would be better than the press!.

If I remember right they are a solid cylinder of bearings & not tapered in anyway.

I should have warned you earlier that the cables would need doing, have they got the grease nipples half way along the hub cables?, I tried to free ours off but it's just not worth it, so yes a new set of those is required.

We did look for a second hand one before we bought ours new, I had heard of this kind of trouble but I still think you have done ok, with all the new running gear it will be an almost new trailer when finished.

I take it this weekends out for you to use the boat now?
Should be good when done though & it will give you piece of mind, esspecially at 50mph on the motorway!
 
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