TOW WARP

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What minimum length and diameter of warp would you keep on board in the case of giving or recieving a tow? In the case of losing motive power and it being prudent to use a sea anchor what length of warp would you suggest using.

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Talbot

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Warp for towing will depend on size of craft that you are towing otherwise you can end up with problems at their end (big rope-small boat - nowhere to secure rope) So far I have used normal berthing ropes quite successfully (including a 13 ton mobo), and a spinnaker sheet on one ocassion. As far as a sea anchor is concerned, there are specific recommendations on size and length of the sea anchor depending on what size and weight of boat, and size of sea anchor, but you are looking at abt 14mm octoplait and abt 100m long.

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markdj

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For a tow rope, get something the thickness of your wrist literally!!! the problem with tow ropes is that the snagging and jerking causes thin ropes to snap like thread. The advantage of using a heavy big rope is that it's self weight stops jerking, and it will most definitely be very strong. If you are using a thinner lighter rope, attach a heavy weight in the middle to take up the slack as each boat moves through the waves - at least 100lbs would work well and you will be surprised how even that weight gets tossed about like a balloon when towing in moderate conditions - we've had life experience to testify to the fact.

Check that your towing cleat is as strong as possible. Look under the fittings and reinforce the underside with marine ply and washers to spread the load of the cleat against the fiberglass. For being towed, the windlass is a good central point but again, check that the bolts are tight and that it is spreading the load evenly against the fiberglass, a bit of grinding make be necessary to smooth the surface.

Hope this gives you an idea of the tensions and strengths required for towing and being towed.

Might be an idea to check out the RNLI's website or go down to a local station and see what they use for warps.

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BrendanS

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Never measured it exactly, but about 20m length of 20mm (or 24mm?) that I keep for towing, and also useful for putting ashore when on outside of raft, plus a whole bunch of other 16mm stuff that probably adds up to another 50 or 60m that I can extend tow with, or make towing bridle from, plus 3ply anchor line that could also be used in emergency.

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hlb

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Dont know about your rist. But that thick and what do yo tie it to??? Anyway it would drag any cleat out. If you had weather that bad the RNLI would give up!! I cant do with light mooring ropes, I'm fabled for it, ask anyone that knows. 20 ml will either tow most any boat or break in in half. Better the rope breaks!!!

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BrendanS

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Most boats of the size we own, from 20 to 50 ft wouldn't have cleats to take wrist thick line.

The tow line I have I put onto bridle that is smaller diam and this smaller bridle will go round cleats and also provide weak link in tow. The bigger stuff is heavy enough to sag and take up slack in tow, but strong enough to take large tow

Not sure I've ever worked out why it works, but it does.

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markdj

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Ok, so wrist was a slight exaggeration :) but you get the idea though...
20mm might be OK. I suppose it depends what type of boat you are towing. We were towing a large displacement boat which may be a bit extreme compared with a planing hull MB or a yacht. The same idea runs true though about secure deck fittings and a weight in the middle of the warp.

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Talbot

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In poor weather you would be better off to attach the towed boat's anchor cable to the tow line, and veer out 20m. This would provide the catenary to soak up the shocks. You could then manage on 14-16mm rope which may well already be in your locker.

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