Torqueedo 1003S Prop removal

I'm interested to find out too.
I've found this suggestion from a forum

""Hi David, a guy from Torqeedo with whom i had an interesting talk at the "Boot" fair in Duesseldorf in january proposed the following procedure. I never tried it, so i'm talking like the blind man about colors! Connect the battery and a controller (tiller)to the motor and power on the controller. Running the motor at low speed and returning to stop makes the motor stall (electrically braked) for a few moments. Use this time to loosen the nut. From normal use i know this brake effect, when setting power to zero while driving the prop stops for, lets say one second, and then it commences revolving as it is driven by the water flow. Again, I never used it for loosening the nut and I'd definetely wear working gloves.... If you use a ratchet with a 17mm socket-wrench and you let run the prop counterclockwise it shouldn't be too dangerous. On the other hand... why not running the motor clockwise and loosen the nut with motorpower ;-) Be careful! Frank - See more at: http://www.panbo.com/archives/2011/...se_of_torqeedo_love.html#sthash.rppwSCKl.dpuf ""
 
I'm interested to find out too.
I've found this suggestion from a forum

""Hi David, a guy from Torqeedo with whom i had an interesting talk at the "Boot" fair in Duesseldorf in january proposed the following procedure. I never tried it, so i'm talking like the blind man about colors! Connect the battery and a controller (tiller)to the motor and power on the controller. Running the motor at low speed and returning to stop makes the motor stall (electrically braked) for a few moments. Use this time to loosen the nut. From normal use i know this brake effect, when setting power to zero while driving the prop stops for, lets say one second, and then it commences revolving as it is driven by the water flow. Again, I never used it for loosening the nut and I'd definetely wear working gloves.... If you use a ratchet with a 17mm socket-wrench and you let run the prop counterclockwise it shouldn't be too dangerous. On the other hand... why not running the motor clockwise and loosen the nut with motorpower ;-) Be careful! Frank - See more at: http://www.panbo.com/archives/2011/...se_of_torqeedo_love.html#sthash.rppwSCKl.dpuf ""

Thanks foeu, I'll give it a try tomorrow!

David
Red Fox 226
 
Crickey watch your fingers! That's a very powerful hand masher you're playing with. Would you do it on a petrol outboard running but hopefully in neutral?
 
Bit of a nightmare that one - I used to have a 1003, and mine broke its shear pin because it couldn't cope with a patch of seaweed (which wasn't that bad, and would have been mashed by a petrol outboard).

I managed to move the nut by a quick sharp jerk with a spanner. I don't like the suggestion above as your fingers and hands are precious and you are relying on the circuit integrity not to restart the motor (which although extremely unlikely, is not a chance I would want to take).

Don't over tighten the nut when you do it up again.

Having shear pin on this motor is to me a serious design flaw - they ought to have used splines. When the retail price is the most expensive ever per HP for a small engine, they ought to do job properly down to that level of detail.

At the price they ask for it, it ought to be near perfect!
 
Bit of a nightmare that one - I used to have a 1003, and mine broke its shear pin because it couldn't cope with a patch of seaweed (which wasn't that bad, and would have been mashed by a petrol outboard).

I managed to move the nut by a quick sharp jerk with a spanner. I don't like the suggestion above as your fingers and hands are precious and you are relying on the circuit integrity not to restart the motor (which although extremely unlikely, is not a chance I would want to take).

Don't over tighten the nut when you do it up again.

Having shear pin on this motor is to me a serious design flaw - they ought to have used splines. When the retail price is the most expensive ever per HP for a small engine, they ought to do job properly down to that level of detail.

At the price they ask for it, it ought to be near perfect!

Thank you -
Agree totally with the design vs price!!

David
Red Fox 226
 
Might it be possible to use a dremel-type tool to cut a slot in the end of the shaft, so that a screwdriver could hold it whilst unscrewing the nut? I have a Torqeedo 1003 but haven't had to take the prop off yet.
 
Might it be possible to use a dremel-type tool to cut a slot in the end of the shaft, so that a screwdriver could hold it whilst unscrewing the nut? I have a Torqeedo 1003 but haven't had to take the prop off yet.
Thanks prv
I will definitely try to slot the shaft (for the next bit of East Coast mud) once I've got the thing apart - not a lot of space to get a milling attachment to get in there - I suppose I could always cut the prop off as it's fairly ragged at the edges - I'll see today....
 
I sympathise with Redfox here - unbelievable that replacement of a shear pin could be this drastic. What on earth were those Germans thinking of in designing an outboard like that??
 
Just got the old prop off without voiding the warranty! You will need: A Vibrating multitool with decent saw blade (Saeger saw), a wedge/screwdriver, and a hammer to cut a segment from the broken prop and remove it from the shaft! Shear pin had broken.

Well done!
 
But what happens to a poor Torqeedo user whose shear pin breaks out on the water? Basically even if they have a spare one, they are well and truly stuffed
 
Just wondering the implications of replacing the shear pin with one that didn't shear. The prop would be damaged but presumably the motor would survive the impact? Would then be a simple job to remove and replace the prop. Expensive though.
 
Interesting...

The Torqeedo prop is fairly brittle plastic, so there is a measure of protection in that if it struck a hard object, the prop would take a lot of the impact and shatter itself.

Obviously your proposed move though would invalidate the warranty! The Torqeedo shear pin is surprisingly thin from memory - must be a reason for that, and it could be that the manufacturers deem the motor vulnerable.
 
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