Torqueedo 1003S Prop removal

foeu said:
Just wondering the implications of replacing the shear pin with one that didn't shear. The prop would be damaged but presumably the motor would survive the impact? Would then be a simple job to remove and replace the prop. Expensive though.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately that wouldn't resolve the problem of being unable to hold the shaft to undo the end nut which is nyloc - possibly a castle nut and split pin might make it easier?
 
Well the shaft would be held still by the prop. So you could hold the prop and undo the nut. Which is why I suggested it.
 
Redfox226 said:
Unfortunately I found with mine that with the pin sheared, the prop just spun on the shaft with the extra torque required to remove the nyloc nut.
Click to expand...

Yes that's why I suggested having a non shearing pin. The damaged prop would hold the shaft so that the nut could be undone easily.
 
Local friend asked me to help remove his prop after he had knocked most of a blade off touching a wooden post in the river. Used a gear puller and the reason it was sticky, was that the pin was steel and rusted.. Not broken. What are the pins you guys are using made of? His Torqueedo dates from around 4/5 yrs ago.
DW
Edit:
Quote[Yes that's why I suggested having a non shearing pin. The damaged prop would hold the shaft so that the nut could be undone easily]end quote.

Props not cheap, unlike pins. But it does sound a bit odd that unless one alters the shaft, one cannot change the pin on the water.
 
Last edited:
As sometimes dealers etc read this site, and I think Torqeedo UK do, come on, lets have a response from the German's who claim this engine is "technologically superior" to everything else on the market. BTW never not been able to get a prop or prop spring off a seagull, using the most basic of tools - British technology, (v v old) btw...
 
Looks like you got it sorted anyway. The best way way is to shock it, to get it started, either with a socket and mallet or an air tool, if you have one.
If it is stubborn, then normally a little pressure forcing the prop over gives enough friction to get it started. Gloves are a really good idea as the prop is sharp, but I would definitely have the battery completely disconnected and certainly not think about running it with my fingers near the prop!.
 
DavidSMN said:
Looks like you got it sorted anyway. The best way way is to shock it, to get it started, either with a socket and mallet or an air tool, if you have one.
If it is stubborn, then normally a little pressure forcing the prop over gives enough friction to get it started. Gloves are a really good idea as the prop is sharp, but I would definitely have the battery completely disconnected and certainly not think about running it with my fingers near the prop!.
Click to expand...

So how do you undo the nut if the pin has sheared other than by running the motor while having a socket on the nut ? Holding the prop won't work if the pin has sheared the nut will just spin the shaft.
 
I have not had one that I cannot undo by just leaning on the prop. But as you suggest it would be great to have another way. The problem would be the same on any other motor apart from you can lock the shaft on a petrol engine by putting it in gear. The electric motor has to be sealed and has little internal friction so there are not many options without introducing power to lock/turn it, which has obvious safety implications. It does have to have a drive pin, so splines could not protect enough but maybe this is something for the future.
For now I have not had to resort to a air ratchet or even a mallet and everyone I have explained this procedure to, have succeeded. So hopefully it is not too bigger problem for the owners.
 
I don't understand "leaning on the prop". If the pin has sheared the prop is not connected to the shaft. A way has to be found to hold the shaft while trying to undo the nut. The prop is out of the equation since the pin has sheared.
 
Maybe I am not explaining very well. Even though the pin has gone you can normally get enough friction on to the shaft to get the nut to come undone. I do this by grabbing on blade and pulling it up whilst leaning on the other with your arm, pushing down, turn the socket with the other hand. Shock it if it doesn't go straight away.
Regards
David
 
I just had to remove the prop on my 1003S. Hit some mud in the shallows and the pin sheared. I found it pretty easy to remove the prop nut. Since my pin was sheered the prop just spun freely so couldn't use it for leverage to spin the nut off. Just put my 17mm socket on the nut and cranked it up in reverse. Nut spun right off. Lucky I guess. The unit is only 2 months old, so maybe no corrosion build up around the nut helped. I have to say I am shocked how thin the diameter of this "cylinder pin' is. No wonder it sheared. I suppose it is preferred over motor or gear damage, but it sure looks pretty brittle given its diameter. Tech service here in the US is shipping me some spares. May call them back and say send me more. See pics here:

//https://goo.gl/photos/eM7ZGL9XmbqqvNdp8
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Y
Quick Aries 1000 anchor windless noisy
Replies
0
Views
108
yotter
Y

Share this page

Top