Torqeedo Travel 801 Recell

I have an 801 with original battery. I am trying to recell a spare battery but unfortunately the German eBay guy linked to will not ship cell pack to uk. I shall buy my own cells and solder them myself. My BMS (also linked to above, thanks Stefan!) arrived today. Will report back.
 
I ordered some additional Li-ion packs from Germany, hoping to revive an additional dead 801 drive and sell it on. The drive is beyond repair/my abilities. So I have two brand new Travel 801 recells - 26V, 8S8P, Samsung INR18650-25R, with balance BMS. Charged once to test, so brand new. If anyone would like to purchase, contact me, if not they will be going on Ebay shortly (Buy It Now) -I also have 2 working throttles, a charger, a complete transom bracket, an original waterproof carry bag, a prop with slight damage (1" chip on end of one blade), and an internal circuit board from the top of the drive. Contact me via PM for details. Chichester/London

StefanSG
 
StefanSG said:
I ordered some additional Li-ion packs from Germany, hoping to revive an additional dead 801 drive and sell it on. The drive is beyond repair/my abilities. So I have two brand new Travel 801 recells - 26V, 8S8P, Samsung INR18650-25R, with balance BMS. Charged once to test, so brand new. If anyone would like to purchase, contact me, if not they will be going on Ebay shortly (Buy It Now) -I also have 2 working throttles, a charger, a complete transom bracket, an original waterproof carry bag, a prop with slight damage (1" chip on end of one blade), and an internal circuit board from the top of the drive. Contact me via PM for details. Chichester/London

StefanSG
Click to expand...
If you still have a Travel 801 recell I would be interested.
 
Just thought I’d add my re-cell report to StefanSG’s excellent thread. Same T800 Torqeedo. I bought 60 2nd hand Panasonic 2500 a/h 18650 cells for £100 on eBay, a £50 spot welder and a £30 BMS (linked to above). After some initial trepidation it actually turned out to be a very straightforward and fun project. I borrowed a Sky RC500 cell charger/analyser to check cell capacity and internal resistance (all good). Original cells were 1300a/h, new ones 2500a/h so not far off twice the original battery capacity. Nice!
I took the opportunity to use sealant on the one or two non-sealed points on battery - mainly where the charger input is and power out terminals. Whilst not desirable as later Torqeedo OBs, these early ‘Travel’ models fold and pack up REALLY small. The one I bought for spares arrived in a standard filing/accounting box, and that was a long shaft one! On my boat I only use flubber once in a while, so to have OB folded and stored at the back of a cabin locker is an advantage.
 
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Hi fredrussell - I have just done a repair on my first pack. I was hauling my tender out last week and hadn’t done the transom screws up tight enough and the whole thing toppled into the water, head first ! When I pulled the pack out there was water pouring out of the holes where the locking pin goes in so hopefully you’ve sealed those up too.. water also got in in the area you mentioned, charge port and power pins, and damaged the board that sits inside, so the leds that indicate charging and level stopped working, which was annoying. However I just bypassed the board completely now on the positive side, the charge in goes direct to pack positive and the charge negative goes to the negative input (on the board) from the BMS. I now have to check battery level with a multimeter.
Could you post a link to the battery welder ?
Also if anyone is still reading this thread and has an old 801 battery that is dead, I’ll dispose of it for you :)
SSG
 
Hi StefanSG. yep - sealed the locking pin holes and re-drilled them after filling those areas with thickened epoxy. I also disabled the original circuit board. I thought about putting a sealed volt-meter it it’s place but I have a spare battery anyway so will take that along on long journeys. I think it’ll always be water ingress that killed these early Torqeedos - what were they thinking!

Spot Welder, Seesii 80 Gears... Amazon.co.uk
 
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Hi StefanSG! Great work. I'm interested how you connected the new bms? There are six pins on battery/engine connector. Two for positive, two for negative, and two other pins (with white and yellow thin wires). I don't know what those two thinner wires are. Did you connect only positive and negative wires/pins? Did you used those two smaller wires/pins?
 
Hi I left all the connections between the socket and the board intact, and connected the BMS directly to the board. Still working great 2 years later. I dont know what those wires do sorry !

SSG
 
StefanSG said:
Hi I left all the connections between the socket and the board intact, and connected the BMS directly to the board. Still working great 2 years later. I dont know what those wires do sorry !

SSG
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Thanks for your reply.

I have recelled several 401 and 801 batteries. Original board has somekind of bms. It does not need other bms. But i see your point. Original board does not monitor voltages between serial groups.

I have 801 engine without batteries and i'm trying to figure it out how i could use it with external battery without Torqeedo's board. There was a so called "adapter cable set (part number TOR-1115)" for external battery. That adapter had connectors for lead acid battery/batteries (you know, those round ones). It is almost impossible to find that adapter anymore or information what is inside in that adapter. Basicly it was a battery cover/case with two wires with battery connectors coming out from the case.

I will come back with the results, IF i get it work.
 
MrHenkk said:
Thanks for your reply.

I have recelled several 401 and 801 batteries. Original board has somekind of bms. It does not need other bms. But i see your point. Original board does not monitor voltages between serial groups.

I have 801 engine without batteries and i'm trying to figure it out how i could use it with external battery without Torqeedo's board. There was a so called "adapter cable set (part number TOR-1115)" for external battery. That adapter had connectors for lead acid battery/batteries (you know, those round ones). It is almost impossible to find that adapter anymore or information what is inside in that adapter. Basicly it was a battery cover/case with two wires with battery connectors coming out from the case.

I will come back with the results, IF i get it work.
Click to expand...
Hi
I have one of those adapter cable sets (the "dummy battery" called Base Travel ) - sorry its not for sale but I could open it up and show you the connections and see if there is any boards etc inside.
There is some basic BMS functions on the original board, but I believe the original LIMA (Lithium Manganese) batteries were designed for use without the need for cell balancing. The board regulates the charge current and protects the battery from overcharge/ overdischarge
 
StefanSG said:
Hi
I have one of those adapter cable sets (the "dummy battery" called Base Travel ) - sorry its not for sale but I could open it up and show you the connections and see if there is any boards etc inside.
There is some basic BMS functions on the original board, but I believe the original LIMA (Lithium Manganese) batteries were designed for use without the need for cell balancing. The board regulates the charge current and protects the battery from overcharge/ overdischarge
Click to expand...
It would be Great to see what is inside!

Those two small wires. I guess it might be a temp sensor or somekind of "permission" to drive. Newer models (Travel 503/1003, etc.) has two thinner wires too and those are for communication between motor, throttle and battery. Throttle is connected to the battery and motor is connected to battery. So communication from throttle to the motor goes through the board inside the battery.

But with 401 and 801 there is a small board top of engine body. Under that small plastic top cover. Throttle is connected to that board, not through the battery. I think i should try to measure what happens in those two wires when the battery is connected and it is ready to use.
 
Did someone actually get rid of the original "BMS" and figured out those white and yellow wires?
I seem to have an issue with the bms and want to remove it totally..
 
fredrussell said:
Just thought I’d add my re-cell report to StefanSG’s excellent thread. Same T800 Torqeedo. I bought 60 2nd hand Panasonic 2500 a/h 18650 cells for £100 on eBay, a £50 spot welder and a £30 BMS (linked to above). After some initial trepidation it actually turned out to be a very straightforward and fun project. I borrowed a Sky RC500 cell charger/analyser to check cell capacity and internal resistance (all good). Original cells were 1300a/h, new ones 2500a/h so not far off twice the original battery capacity. Nice!
I took the opportunity to use sealant on the one or two non-sealed points on battery - mainly where the charger input is and power out terminals. Whilst not desirable as later Torqeedo OBs, these early ‘Travel’ models fold and pack up REALLY small. The one I bought for spares arrived in a standard filing/accounting box, and that was a long shaft one! On my boat I only use flubber once in a while, so to have OB folded and stored at the back of a cabin locker is an advantage.
Click to expand...
Excellent post.

I did wonder if any of the cells in the OP could have been saved since only a few looked corroded and the poor ones spot welded into place as you did.
 
Andde said:
Did someone actually get rid of the original "BMS" and figured out those white and yellow wires?
I seem to have an issue with the bms and want to remove it totally..
Click to expand...
Ask poster at number 27.

They sound on top of things.

I would think a BMS is vital because there are so many individual cells that all need balancing, but I am not an electrician.
 
Andde said:
Did someone actually get rid of the original "BMS" and figured out those white and yellow wires?
I seem to have an issue with the bms and want to remove it totally..
Click to expand...
I’ve replaced the BMS in both my 801 batteries. I used the BMS linked to in OP. Easy job but you do lose the charge level indicator on battery if going this route.
 
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