drude
Member
Thinking of taking the plunge and buying a Tillerpilot ST1000+ I assume I also need to buy the bracket for the tiller separately. Do I need anything else to complete installation? 12v wiring?
Tillerpilot ST1000+ - What's not included?
- Thread starter drude
- Start date
fredrussell
Well-Known Member
I’m pretty sure the kit comes with a brass flush mount ‘cup’ to be installed on coaming and a ball-topped pin to install on top of tiller. If you want to mount pin below tiller then yes, you will need the bracket which is not included. Very easy part to fabricate yourself to be honest, just a bit of flat bar with a couple of bends.
Tomaret
Well-Known Member
Depending on dimensions, you may also need an extension to the tiller arm.
VicS
Well-Known Member
The basic mounting socket, tiller pin and electrical socket are supplied.
See the installation instructions in the Owners Handbook for all the alternative mountings, tiller connections and extensions ( page 29 et seq. )
ST1000+, ST2000+ Tiller Drive Manuals | Raymarine
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drude
Member
Thanks everyone - the manual certainly helps. I'll do some measurements at the weekend.
seeSimon
Well-Known Member
Very much depends on the exact configuration of your boat, imho.
I suspect you'll probably need to offer the unit up for sizing and go ahead from there?
Electrically, just needs a simple 2 core supply, unless you want to network it to plotter/gps or similar.
Fwiw I just upgraded my st1000 to a st2000 and can confirm (without sea trials, so far) that these un8ts are physically interchangeable.
I suspect you'll probably need to offer the unit up for sizing and go ahead from there?
Electrically, just needs a simple 2 core supply, unless you want to network it to plotter/gps or similar.
Fwiw I just upgraded my st1000 to a st2000 and can confirm (without sea trials, so far) that these un8ts are physically interchangeable.
pioneer
Well-Known Member
If installing a new power cable might be worth considering installing 5 core to enable Nema (+/-) and Seatalk connections should they be wanted in the future. The Seatalk connection is also used to connect Nauti Control wireless remote controller.
Also worth getting a weather resistant cover to keep the worst to the wet stuff from hitting the casing, which hasn't got a great reputation for keeping the works inside dry.
Plum
Well-Known Member
It already comes with a 5 core cable and the standard 6-pin plug and socket for power, NMEA connections, remote connection
pioneer
Well-Known Member
Yes, agreed. I was thinking more about the user supplied cable from the back of the socket to the boat's power supply/instrument interface location rather than from the socket to the ST1000+.
seeSimon
Well-Known Member
Plug and socket yes.
No cable. Available on ebay.
Remote controls available, including a cordless one, non Raymarine. Thread on here about it.
"Cheaper alternative to Raymarine S100 wireless AP remote control".
Seymo, Spain. Recommended. I've had one for 2 years.
https://seymonautica.com/en/wireless-pilot/127-remote-control-for-raymarine-.html
UK made weather covers available on eBay. Item 123798841222. £25.
Recommended.
bluerm166
Well-Known Member
Not included :
Water resistance.
Water resistance.
mattonthesea
Well-Known Member
Water resistance: polythene baguette bags
Measuring: our distance from tiller to cockpit coaming is several inches more than manual says; never been a problem although we only use it as 'keep going this way ' once we've set the course.
Measuring: our distance from tiller to cockpit coaming is several inches more than manual says; never been a problem although we only use it as 'keep going this way ' once we've set the course.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
^^ Good point. If you sail in the rain, get a cover (eBay or Amazon). Or you can make one.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
I would bend over backwards to meet the required directions. I have had them installed to the wrong dimensions on two boats. steering can be sluggish and auto-tack won't work, which is VERY useful when singlehanding. Even when there is someone with you, do you want to bother them every time you tack?
The pin-to-pintle distance can be altered downwards if the boat is small, for better responce (small boats need to tack faster) but you didn't tell us.
Also, I would get the ST2000. The ram speed is much higher, it's stronger, and the price difference is small.
The pin-to-pintle distance can be altered downwards if the boat is small, for better responce (small boats need to tack faster) but you didn't tell us.
Also, I would get the ST2000. The ram speed is much higher, it's stronger, and the price difference is small.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
I cut the arm off an old plastic waterproof jacket The angled end by the shoulder fits nicely over the buttons & can be folded back.
I changed the plug to a 2 pin one to avoid using the supplied one & I have a screwed metal plug.
One point I would make is that I have tied mine to a cord with a snap shackle . The first thing I do is fasten it to the boat. Once when i was about to rig it up I dropped it and it nearly went over the stern before I plugged it in. A friend of mine en route single handed from Scarborough to Stavanger, slipped & kicked his Raymarine ram overboard. Fortunately he has wind steering so was able to get to Norway OK where his wife met him with a new ram.
While you are buying it, I would recommend the more powerful ST 2000 model.You may regret it in the end. I had to upgrade my ST2000 for an AV 100 and that still is not enough on a 31 ft yacht. I have burned out several Simrad & Raymarine autopilots & I think that the Simrad is better than the ST2000- Is it still made?
I changed the plug to a 2 pin one to avoid using the supplied one & I have a screwed metal plug.
One point I would make is that I have tied mine to a cord with a snap shackle . The first thing I do is fasten it to the boat. Once when i was about to rig it up I dropped it and it nearly went over the stern before I plugged it in. A friend of mine en route single handed from Scarborough to Stavanger, slipped & kicked his Raymarine ram overboard. Fortunately he has wind steering so was able to get to Norway OK where his wife met him with a new ram.
While you are buying it, I would recommend the more powerful ST 2000 model.You may regret it in the end. I had to upgrade my ST2000 for an AV 100 and that still is not enough on a 31 ft yacht. I have burned out several Simrad & Raymarine autopilots & I think that the Simrad is better than the ST2000- Is it still made?
garymalmgren
Well-Known Member
Two points.
As thinwater has pointed out
I would bend over backwards to meet the required directions. I have had them installed to the wrong dimensions on two boats. steering can be sluggish and auto-tack won't work, which is VERY useful when singlehanding.
My unit was fitted when I bought the boat.
I was not really satisfied with the operation of my ST 1000 tillerpilot over a 5 year period. Something just seemed off. Sometimes really accurate and sometimes wandering. I re-calibrated it, but it made no difference.
The pivot point is on the cockpit coaming and because of the cockpit locker hatches that was the only place it could be fitted. I measured and found that it was 40 mm short of center on the port stroke, so I made up a short extension that put the pivot point exactly on center of stroke.
Works perfectly now. Long story short. The tillerpilot MUST be fitted so the ram is at exactly center stroke when tiller is centered.
Not included.
Stroke limiting.
As thinwater has pointed out
I would bend over backwards to meet the required directions. I have had them installed to the wrong dimensions on two boats. steering can be sluggish and auto-tack won't work, which is VERY useful when singlehanding.
My unit was fitted when I bought the boat.
I was not really satisfied with the operation of my ST 1000 tillerpilot over a 5 year period. Something just seemed off. Sometimes really accurate and sometimes wandering. I re-calibrated it, but it made no difference.
The pivot point is on the cockpit coaming and because of the cockpit locker hatches that was the only place it could be fitted. I measured and found that it was 40 mm short of center on the port stroke, so I made up a short extension that put the pivot point exactly on center of stroke.
Works perfectly now. Long story short. The tillerpilot MUST be fitted so the ram is at exactly center stroke when tiller is centered.
Not included.
Stroke limiting.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
^^
a. Incorrect positioning makes hitting the end of the stoke more likely. Correctly mounted, it is less likely. Yes, I have no idea why a limit switch is not stock.
b. In my case, both were mounted too far forward (about 21-23 inches instead of 18". On my F-24 I moved it to 16", which gives better performance on a small, light boat that likes quick tacks. Really, 18" is sort of an average value for 27-30' boats. I have know people to mount them as short as 12" on small trailer boats, with very good results. But that is a mod that must be matched to the boat.
tiller pilot mounting mod
a. Incorrect positioning makes hitting the end of the stoke more likely. Correctly mounted, it is less likely. Yes, I have no idea why a limit switch is not stock.
b. In my case, both were mounted too far forward (about 21-23 inches instead of 18". On my F-24 I moved it to 16", which gives better performance on a small, light boat that likes quick tacks. Really, 18" is sort of an average value for 27-30' boats. I have know people to mount them as short as 12" on small trailer boats, with very good results. But that is a mod that must be matched to the boat.
tiller pilot mounting mod
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