Swanrad2
Member
Thanks for the generous offer of pistons and the like - I hope, and I mean REALLY hope I don't have to take you up on them!
Test starting a renovated engine
- Thread starter Swanrad2
- Start date
Thanks for the generous offer of pistons and the like - I hope, and I mean REALLY hope I don't have to take you up on them!
Twister_Ken
Well-known member
Wonder how long it took to clean up the camera afterwards?
Swanrad2
Member
I was once taking off from Liverpool airport flying to the Isle of Man when the wheels failed to retract or properly extend. The pilot did a very, very quick turn and headed back to the runway. On landing we were followed the length of the runway by a fire engine (and a second vehicle that was just out of sight). The man in the seat next to me sat calmly throughout reading his paper, I took my lead from him and stared quietly out of the window. On landing he exhaled loudly, carefully folded his paper looked at me and said (in a very posh accent) "thank **** for that'.
Not thought about this for years but the mechanic on this video reminded me of him! Coolness under pressure....
fisherman
Well-known member
Watch this, the successful startup, but at 3.01 he reverses it, or rather, sets it in the right direction
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_0poJpCD18
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_0poJpCD18
Lakesailor
New member
Just a little crankshaft balancing to do now.
Mad Pad
Member
Love the engine beds...looks like it was cut out of an abandoned Baltic Trader!!
Jcorstorphine
Well-known member
Watch for lack of oil pressure.
When I rebuilt my Volvo MD2B (right down to crankshaft) I had serious problems getting oil pressure.
I had heard of engines seizing on first start up so I put an oil pressure gauge on where the oil pressure switch was located and cranked the engine by hand with the de-compressors open but could not get any oil pressure.
Then tried with the oil pressure gauge removed to give an open end to the oil circuit but still no oil flow out of the open connection point
Next tried the same using the electric starter but still no oil flow
Basically the problem is that the as the oil pump is driven off the end of the camshaft and as such, is above the oil level it has to create a partial vacuum in order to suck the oil from the sump.
One reason for loss of oil pressure on these engines is that the dipstick has to make a vacuum seal on the tube which goes down into the sump but that was ok.
Determined not to start the engine until I was 100% sure there was oil getting to the bearings, I connected a small vacuum pump to the oil pressure gauge point and ran the vacuum pump. I soon saw oil being sucked through the clear vacuum hose towards the pump so stopped the pump and opened up the pipe and turned the engine to see oil spurting out the hole.
Put the oil pressure gauge back on and could see the oil pressure rise.
I am sure in my case, the problem was down to a worn oil pump ( which to my shame, I had not paid too much attention to) so it did not self prime.
It could be argued that if I had just started the engine, the much higher speed would have primed the pump but there are no prizes for seizing an engine
If you have the same problem (and do not have access to a vacuum pump) you could remove the oil pump cover plate (behind the flywheel) and make sure the mechanism is well oiled so that it will prime.
Good luck for the weekend
When I rebuilt my Volvo MD2B (right down to crankshaft) I had serious problems getting oil pressure.
I had heard of engines seizing on first start up so I put an oil pressure gauge on where the oil pressure switch was located and cranked the engine by hand with the de-compressors open but could not get any oil pressure.
Then tried with the oil pressure gauge removed to give an open end to the oil circuit but still no oil flow out of the open connection point
Next tried the same using the electric starter but still no oil flow
Basically the problem is that the as the oil pump is driven off the end of the camshaft and as such, is above the oil level it has to create a partial vacuum in order to suck the oil from the sump.
One reason for loss of oil pressure on these engines is that the dipstick has to make a vacuum seal on the tube which goes down into the sump but that was ok.
Determined not to start the engine until I was 100% sure there was oil getting to the bearings, I connected a small vacuum pump to the oil pressure gauge point and ran the vacuum pump. I soon saw oil being sucked through the clear vacuum hose towards the pump so stopped the pump and opened up the pipe and turned the engine to see oil spurting out the hole.
Put the oil pressure gauge back on and could see the oil pressure rise.
I am sure in my case, the problem was down to a worn oil pump ( which to my shame, I had not paid too much attention to) so it did not self prime.
It could be argued that if I had just started the engine, the much higher speed would have primed the pump but there are no prizes for seizing an engine
If you have the same problem (and do not have access to a vacuum pump) you could remove the oil pump cover plate (behind the flywheel) and make sure the mechanism is well oiled so that it will prime.
Good luck for the weekend
NormanS
Well-known member
All good reasons for ensuring that all bearing surfaces are well smeared with oil, prior to, and during assembly.
Large engines have provision for getting the lube oil up to pressure before starting, but our wee things rely on some oil remaining on the bearings, either from the last run, or from oiling on assembly.
Swanrad2
Member
So much to think about .... Might procrastinate for a week or two.
Blueboatman
Well-known member
Re Jcorstorphine
Interesting. I couldn't tell you where the oil pump is on the smaller Yanmars, but when ever I start the engine from cold , I spin it decompressed until the oil warning buzzer goes silent. Then do a standard start.
Some engines fire almost immediately -too immediately perhaps when left unused for a while..?
I am perhaps lucky in the exhaust ' hi rise ' allows quite a lot of cranking before I fear the dreaded HYDROLOCKING . It is still a good idea of course, though tedious, to almost shut the water inlet ( and re-open ho ho...)
Interesting. I couldn't tell you where the oil pump is on the smaller Yanmars, but when ever I start the engine from cold , I spin it decompressed until the oil warning buzzer goes silent. Then do a standard start.
Some engines fire almost immediately -too immediately perhaps when left unused for a while..?
I am perhaps lucky in the exhaust ' hi rise ' allows quite a lot of cranking before I fear the dreaded HYDROLOCKING . It is still a good idea of course, though tedious, to almost shut the water inlet ( and re-open ho ho...)
NormanS
Well-known member
Do you go through that performance with a car?
Blueboatman
Well-known member
Indeed not . Probably mess up the particle filter/cat converter bits and lambda sensors ?
Used to spin motorcycles tho with the kill switch off , after standing for months, overhead cams in plain bearings n all that ..
Used to spin motorcycles tho with the kill switch off , after standing for months, overhead cams in plain bearings n all that ..
aquaplane
Active member
Yer but think about it, wouldn't you rather know you have more work to do now than two weeks closer to nice weather? Besides, it's going to be fine, you can have that in writing if you like.
Graham_Wright
Well-known member
……or take off the pump drive belt (and keep an eye on the fw temperature).
macnorton
Active member
Leave the filters off then you can block the intake which will stop it, a fire extinguisher fired into the intake will stop it as a last resort.
Turning fuel off will not stop the engine in time!
Turning fuel off will not stop the engine in time!
Swanrad2
Member
I went to do it this weekend, when refitting the deck furl filler cap I had re-used the old rubber seal to the deck. Thing failed so had to be siliconed in as the tank had water in it! Arghhh, 2 hour drive there, two hour drive back - ages getting the process perfected on here, thwarted by re-using a bit rather than using 50p of silicone.
Next weekend!
sailorman
Well-known member
nitrile washer
30boat
N/A
Yes don't use silicone near diesel or petrol.It'll desintegrate.
Swanrad2
Member
Agreed - it's on the filler cap on the cockpit sole and I don't spill often if at all, thought I would get away with silicone. Please say the occasional drip won't kill the seal?
