Temporarily filling fixing holes

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Hi

We've just bought, and are doing up, a Copland Fox Terrier 22. We've removed all the deck fittings for restoration and just want a quick and easy way to fill the holes over the winter to keep water out. I was thinking just a bit of DIY decorator's caulk? I reckon it'll keep the water out but also just poke out easily when we want to re-fit cleats etc.

Any other ideas?
 

scozzy

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Decorators caulk is for interiors so for a harsh external environment I wouldn't be putting too much trust in it...if its just a cheap and cheerful stop gap then you'd be as well using a dab of silicone which is at least waterproof!
 

Mister E

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Silicone on a piece of plastic bag cut just bigger than the hole but still handle able.
A blob on the plastic then press down to cover the hole.
 

VicS

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Hi

We've just bought, and are doing up, a Copland Fox Terrier 22. We've removed all the deck fittings for restoration and just want a quick and easy way to fill the holes over the winter to keep water out. I was thinking just a bit of DIY decorator's caulk? I reckon it'll keep the water out but also just poke out easily when we want to re-fit cleats etc.

Any other ideas?

Adhesive tape .... eg insulation tape or gaffer tape or polythene sheet + insulation tape if you need wider ......... but don't use parcel tape .. its impossible to remove.

' s wot I used.

.
 

oldbloke

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For machine screws , bathroom type sealant, ( insulation tape ok on smooth surfaces but not on nonslip. Most duct tapes fall apart and leave residue). For screw holes, if the wood is dry, then epoxy and redrill in the spring
 

rogerthebodger

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Duct tape disinfectant in UV sunlight. Aluminum tape is better

I use press stick putty as a temporary filler to prevent water ingress
 
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Avoid anything silicone - you won't get anything to stick there again when the time comes. I'd go with little squares of butyl tape.

Nice little boat, very similar in concept and style to my Atlanta Catch22
Yes we've had her a little over a week and wanted to get some sailing in before taking her home so was out all last week in F6 winds - couldn't believe how stable she was.
boat.jpg
 

William_H

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I think OP idea is all wrong. it smalls of really long term lay up. Fun in itself at first but eventually soul destroying trying to get back to where you are now.
Avoid the complete refurbishment. Just sail the boat. Fix what is needed in situ presumably in the water.
If you are contemplating painting the cabin top and decks (which I would discourage) then remove the fitting paint immediately and then refit the fitting. If weather is not too cold polyurethane paint hardens fairly quickly. You don't have to do it all at once. I said I would discourage painting. That is because the non skid surface becomes smooth with paint needing then grit to be added to avoid slips. ol'will
 
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Well she's out of the water now with mast etc down. She's in great shape apart from cosmetics and, as she'll not go back in the water until the end of March, we have the opportunity to make her lovely. All the wood needs sanding and re-varnishing etc, my 16 year old son loves working on boats (and learns loads in the progress having already restored a completely knackered speed boat) so we're going for it! She's in our garden so much easier than having to trip down to a boatyard with a car full of tools.

We do indeed though need to do a lot of research into painting the top sides...
 

vyv_cox

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To reinforce the 'no silicone' advice. Silicones inhibit the curing of many paints, coatings and sealants. When people complain that their Sikaflex sealant did not harden it is because silicone that was there previously had not been removed. By far the best advice is never to use it on a boat.

This does not include professional cured silicone systems as used for glazing.
 

srm

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Build a polytunnel tent over it similar to those used for horticulture. Gives a more or less controlled environment enabling work to continue when weather would otherwise stop it and no worries about water getting in small holes.
 
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Build a polytunnel tent over it similar to those used for horticulture. Gives a more or less controlled environment enabling work to continue when weather would otherwise stop it and no worries about water getting in small holes.
We've got one of those Clarke pop up temp garage things - it'll be a bit of a squeeze but should keep the worst of the weather (and bird poo) off...
 

Alpha22

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Defo no Silicone... Don't use gaffa or parcel tape.... it eventually degrades and is a tw@t to remove.

Some vinyl tape, electrical tape will do the job and come off clean in a year (or two) time.
If the holes are too big for electrical tape.... i larger piece of vinyl sticker material will cover and adhere well.
 

srm

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We've got one of those Clarke pop up temp garage things - it'll be a bit of a squeeze but should keep the worst of the weather (and bird poo) off...
Sounds a better bet than bits of tape and should save time cleaning. Something bigger that allows work on the hull under cover may be a worthwhile investment though as otherwise you could be severely limited by weather.
 
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