Teakguard...

[wazza]

Has anyone used the product teakguard??

It seems to be the bee knees for sealing a deck... seems to last a whole season in the Floridian sun.

 

[Tranona]

Don't know that brand, but if you want to go the sealer route Semco is commonly used.

 

[BrianH]

Don't know that brand, but if you want to go the sealer route Semco is commonly used.

Semco sealer is excellent but I have switched to Teak Wonder at half the price - at least it is here in Italy.

It has all the same physical attributes - appearance, smell, consistency and applies with the same ease, soaking in as though water based. The active sealing ingredient is silicon and it seems to work just as well as Semco.

Of course, nothing is for ever and, like Semco, a re-application is necessary after a period. I give my deck a fresh coat every spring. Beware the dregs of the tin, especially if you haven't been too thorough with the initial stirring, the UV protective colour will be a sediment that makes the last area of brushstrokes take on a deeper shade of orangey-brown.
Nothing as bad as that terrible Coelan colour though.

 

[wazza]

Tranona & Barnac1e I've looked up both of these products and both look good. I've never used a sealant on my deck before so my questions are as follows:-

1. Is using a sealant 'just' for the looks or does it help to stop small leaks, as for me, to seal something means exactly that?
2. If using either product, can I just re-apply the sealant year after year or must I use the 2 part cleaner each time I want to apply the sealant?

I'm SOOOOOOOOO confused about what to do with my damned decks, I argue CONSTANTLY with myself about what I should do.....
I have coelan(xtreem coat) on my coach roof and I am happy with it so far (2nd season) but I don't want it on the side or fore decks as I must have a nonslip surface there...
Thanks in advance for your help.
Warren

 

[BrianH]

Is using a sealant 'just' for the looks or does it help to stop small leaks, as for me, to seal something means exactly that?

Both Semco and Teak Wonder are the nearest thing in appearance to .... nothing. They soak in and leave a slightly tinted surface that will wear off. They are a wood sealer and not a leak sealer. So no, they will not "stop small leaks". Their intent is to protect the wood only.

If using either product, can I just re-apply the sealant year after year or must I use the 2 part cleaner each time I want to apply the sealant?

It makes sense to clean the wood before applying the sealer, which is what I do. Wash down, apply the cleaner, then the sealer - allowing to dry before each. Using the 'brightener' - or oxalic acid first is a matter of preference, not necessity.

I have coelan(xtreem coat) on my coach roof and I am happy with it so far (2nd season) but I don't want it on the side or fore decks as I must have a nonslip surface there...

Coelan have a glass bead product for adding to the final coat for non-slip properties - never used it (it is still somewhere in the depths of one of my cockpit lockers) so cannot comment on its efficiency.

You may be happy with your Coelan after two years but there will come a time, sooner or later, that it will start to peel in places. Some will come off easily, most will not, it will stick like the proverbial and be the devil to remove or unsightly if re-applied over the original surface.

 

[Piers]

I'm SOOOOOOOOO confused about what to do with my damned decks, I argue CONSTANTLY with myself about what I should do.....
I have coelan(xtreem coat) on my coach roof and I am happy with it so far (2nd season) but I don't want it on the side or fore decks as I must have a nonslip surface there...
Thanks in advance for your help.
Warren

Hi Guys and Guyesses. Teak treatments cause great debate - just look at the many threads on the subject and see what reactions you get when asking around the marina.

When it came to doing Play d'eau's teak decking, I wanted some thing that was not going to do any damage and was not going to end up attracting more dirt, such as an oil finish.

In the end, I took the advice of a professional company that works on superyachts. The Wessex Treatment (http://www.wessexchemicalfactors.co.uk/product-detail.php?id=2).

The benefits of this is that it doesn't eat or damage the teak, but it does kill the lichen (light green when wet) and mould (black when wet) as well as removing any green. Follow the instructions properly and you'll restore your teak to an almost 100% original condition. Don't then add a sealer or oil. Just leave it.

Since doing my decks, I've been told about Borocol (http://www.boron.org.uk/Boron shop.htm?gclid=CJPuhofrsLgCFdHMtAodWDsALw#Boracols) but have yet to prove it.

The clue is not to use anything that eats the wood, not to add oil, and not to seal it.

If you want to know more about Borocaol, ask Bandit of this parish. Bandit uses it and loves it.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Since doing my decks, I've been told about Borocol (http://www.boron.org.uk/Boron shop.htm?gclid=CJPuhofrsLgCFdHMtAodWDsALw#Boracols) but have yet to prove it.

The clue is not to use anything that eats the wood, not to add oil, and not to seal it.

If you want to know more about Borocaol, ask Bandit of this parish. Bandit uses it and loves it.

I endorse Boracol (note to self, must by some more, down the dregs in the current bottle).

Through bitter experience, I now only have teak on the cockpit seats. One Boracol treatment (drench wood in fresh water, allow to almost dry, apply boracol with brush or sponge, go away, come back in a week and exclaim loudly "Wow, that looks good") in the spring, and another before lay-up/winter abandonment does the trick.

(see page 41 of the Hallberg Rassy moaner's annual. http://www.hallberg-rassy.com/Download/Manual-Eng.PDF)

 

[wazza]

Yes Boracol is a great product, I've used it a few times.

What I'm now debating on doing is re-caulking a lot of the deck then sanding (yes I said sanding) the whole thing down a couple of mm, replace the plugs where the screws are popping out. But I won't replace the screws, I'll just take them out.
Then either seal or oil it.

What do we think of that??

 

[Twister_Ken]

But I won't replace the screws, I'll just take them out.

I know you're planning to teak plug the holes, but you risk leaving lots of screw holes in the substrate, where water WILL eventually find its way, so be sure to fill the screw holes before plugging the holes.

If the teak has enough thickness left, no harm in sanding it down. Teak doesn't need oiling - it's naturally oily. I have no opinion on sealing it, except that it's likely to become a regular maintenance chore, coz it won't last forever.

 

[Tranona]

Yes Boracol is a great product, I've used it a few times.

What I'm now debating on doing is re-caulking a lot of the deck then sanding (yes I said sanding) the whole thing down a couple of mm, replace the plugs where the screws are popping out. But I won't replace the screws, I'll just take them out.
Then either seal or oil it.

What do we think of that??

Right in the middle of laying a new teak deck! The recaulking and replacing bungs is the standard treatment to extend the life. However it is not a cure for the bad construction method of screwing the wood to the deck - even with a good adhesive as water will eventually get in. There is usually enough thickness to take quite a bit of sanding and countersinking the bungs further.However removing the screws maybe not a good idea as you don't know how important they are in keeping the teak attached to the deck.

Probably does not help you, unless you go for full replacement, but the method I am using is 55*4mm quarter sawn strips, laid straight (that is not following the curve of the deck) glued down and caulked. (teak is from a baulk that has been seasoning for 25 years or more) Lot of the problems with old style teak decks is caused by the planks being forced into shape and mechanically fastened. Being heavy section - often 12 mm, the differential expansion of the timber compared with GRP sets up movements which you see as failing seams and to an extent bungs popping out.

Will let you know in 50 years time if my method (cribbed from Geougeon brothers) works!

 

[wazza]

Ken, or anyone else of course, what would you suggest I fill the holes left by the screws with?
I have, with other plugs, filled them with epoxy, but I was thinking of using something which won't hinder the eventual taking up of the deck.

 

[ccscott49]

I have just sanded, removed all the caulking, deepend the grooves, recaulked my decks, pulled all the bronze screws, deepend the holes and replugged (2500 of them) I would not and have not ever used any sealers or anything else, but wessex chemicals products. No pressure washers, scubbing brushes. My decks are 3/4" teak, laid on 3/4" ply and are now 43 years old, this is the first time this job has been done on her. I expect the decks to outlive me and the next owner! By the way, they look magnificent and are smooth as a babys bum underfoot. Damn hard work though!

 

[wazza]

I have just sanded, removed all the caulking, deepend the grooves, recaulked my decks, pulled all the bronze screws, deepend the holes and replugged (2500 of them) I would not and have not ever used any sealers or anything else, but wessex chemicals products. No pressure washers, scubbing brushes. My decks are 3/4" teak, laid on 3/4" ply and are now 43 years old, this is the first time this job has been done on her. I expect the decks to outlive me and the next owner! By the way, they look magnificent and are smooth as a babys bum underfoot. Damn hard work though!

This is most probably what I'll do... So many questions, if its ok I'll pm you....

Anyone else regarding my plugs??

 

[BrianH]

Ken, or anyone else of course, what would you suggest I fill the holes left by the screws with?
I have, with other plugs, filled them with epoxy, but I was thinking of using something which won't hinder the eventual taking up of the deck.

I used a runny epoxy with the intention of filling the screw hole in the grp to prevent water ingress. If I had re-screwed it would have penetrated deeper into the foam core because the plug holes invariably had to be deepened due to surface wear. I suppose a shorter screw may have been the answer but figured the epoxy would take up that function, although I was also influenced by the madness of having holes in a perfectly good deck and wanted them filled. I know that will have made eventual removal of the planks and grinding down for deck painting (always scheduled for the next year and always postponed) more difficult but it's going to be an awful job anyway.

ccscott49 has done the right thing and should be an example to us all. But his deck was clearly in top condition, which mine is not and only worth patching up until I really do bite the bullet to pull it up. In a way I'm lucky to be in a climate where any water that gets under the deck quickly dries out in the baking hot sun and I never get water seeping below by the through-deck fittings. An overall cover keeps the decks dry over winter so I always have grounds for procrastination.

 

[wazza]

Oh Barnac1e your, I quote "always scheduled for the next year and always postponed" theme is TOTALLY & UTTERLY the same as I have every year. This season I was really in the 'rip the s##t up' mode and had pretty much decided on doing that this coming winter, then I saw a Najad when out sailing which the owner had sanded, re-caulked then oiled his deck and it looked good so I thought "ah I'll try that.." And my mind was changed AGAIN....

 

[BrianH]

Oh Barnac1e your, I quote "always scheduled for the next year and always postponed" theme is TOTALLY & UTTERLY the same as I have every year. This season I was really in the 'rip the s##t up' mode and had pretty much decided on doing that this coming winter, then I saw a Najad when out sailing which the owner had sanded, re-caulked then oiled his deck and it looked good so I thought "ah I'll try that.." And my mind was changed AGAIN....

They always look good at a distance - even mine. But you have to ask yourself if the work (and/or cost) is worth the cosmetic effect. There are many variables, many of them purely subjective. I personally would never have another at any price.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Been pondering this - the obvious answer would be some runny epoxy, but that risks sticking down the planks above, which might not be a good thing if you want to lift the old deck in a year or three. There is a sort of underwater epoxy putty which comes in a sealed tube. Break it open, massage it to mix two its components and slap it on - if you're doing an underwater repair. If you massaged it, broke off small pellets and tamped them into the screw holes with a suitable - errrr - tamper that might do the trick.

 

[BrianH]

Been pondering this - the obvious answer would be some runny epoxy, but that risks sticking down the planks above, which might not be a good thing if you want to lift the old deck in a year or three.

I have always been aware of that risk but not all bad as with the screw removed it helps to secure the plank.

It can never be as bad as what I recently witnessed with an old Bavaria that had glued-down deck and coachroof of ply-backed teak veneer being removed with electrical chisels. Random and partial spot fixation of 12cm thick wood strips will be a doddle in comparison after the screws are removed.

In the event all the old screw holes will have to be epoxy-filled to above the grp deck level and ground down anyway.

 

[wazza]

I was thinking (the wife always says that's a bad sign) what about the actual caulk material (I use MS Polymer) in the screw holes, then a teak plug on top. Shouldn't that do the trick?

Another little Q, what does the panel think. As I'm intending on sanding down the deck should or could I caulk first then sand as I wouldn't need to do the painstaking & time consuming job of taping off the planks???

Barnac1e, your deck looks the bees knees... Very nice sir..!!!!!

 

[Tranona]

I am using Sabacaulk on the new teak deck I am laying. Recommendation is to fill with a nozzle exactly the width of the seam to 2mm above the timber, then pare of (at least 7 days later) with a sharp chisel before sanding with an orbital sander and 120 grit. Not yet done it (still gluing the teak down), but makes sense.