teak decks

[mr_angry]

I am considering purchasing an Endurance 35 (windboat hull) but the teak decks are leaking water into the cabins. To remedy this would I have to lift the decking and re-bed and caulk it or simply pick out the old sealer and re-caulk before sanding/planing?
I would also appreciate any info or experiences any of you may have on this type of boat.
Thank you in advance
Steven Crangle.

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[tillergirl]

Well you don't necessarily have to lift the decks and if you do you'll find it difficult to do it without damaging the teak. Paying and caulking can be renewed - indeed must if it's leaking as it will get fresh water into the beams, beam shelf, frames and even the planks and cause rot. Rake out the paying - if only it was as quick as typing those words - that's the black stuff and I would suggest the caulking cotton as well. When you have the seam clean some advocate that it needs a seam break in the bottom of the groove - its a narrow bit of tape Arbo and others sell; this is so the paying and caulking can move with the sides of the planks and not remain stuck to the bottom of whatever the laid deck is laid on. Recaulk, prime the seams with the correct primer for the mastic you are going to use as paying and then add the black stuff - that's when it gets messy unless you are careful. Overfil the seams, allow to cure and then cut or sand off the surplus.

At this stage pray. I found after wearing out a set of knees that the original fastenings of the teak were steeel and after 40 yrs some had let go allowing too much movement for the paying to hold for long. In the end I had to renew the deck and I found that the fresh water had seriously damaged the underlying ply, starboard beamshelf, some of the half beams. All repairable but at a cost of course.

I've assumed that it is a wooden hull because you're getting water into the cabin which if its teak laid on a glass deck would suggest (I guess) something serious wrong with the glass deck or the deck/hull joint.

If a wooden hull, you need to make a serious assessment of the likely freshwater damage. If you can smell a fungi mustiness with your nose close up underneath the deck I guess you will have some wet rot present. The problem I had with lifting the deck was that it was taking nearly two hours to remove a fastening, some were shearing their heads (not a problem if you can remove an adjacent plank, then the plank can be eased over the remains of the shank) and it was proving nearly impossible not to damage the edges of the screw holes so in the end I had to abandon trying to save the teak (I now have a teak cockit table, a teak navigator's rack, a teak rack for the tillerpilot etc etc)

Good luck

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[EASLOOP]

I know the feeling - the super hot and dry uk summer has caused my teak laid deck to separate from the mastic, despite seam breakers, priming etc. I have read at least one report that Coelan liberally applied to the deck prevented leaks for 6 years and still going. I am going to try this next after some re-caulking. The stuff is expensive but a lot cheaper than a new deck. Also the gloss version has a semi tactile property that means slipping on deck should not be a problem. Glass beads are available for added security.
rgds
John

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[robind]

I used cassette tape for the joint break and it worked for me (certainly cheaper)
Rob

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