teak deck repair

[rigpigpaul]

Hi All, part of my teak deck is starting to lift and water has gotten underneath because that area takes longer to dry out. The deck is old and thin and is fixed with screws. The plugs are starting to pop out revealing the screw heads and this is where the water is getting in. I would like to lift part of the deck, let it dry out then glue the teak back down and fit new plugs over the holes. I will eventually fit a new deck but funds are tight at the moment. You know how it is, fast women and slow horses.
thanks in anticipation
Paul.

 

[robind]

How thick are the remaining teak deck strips/Planks and whats underneath them.
Regards
Rob

 

[franky045]

I have a similar problem. My boat is grp 1973 and I don't know what was used between the teak and the fibreglass as an adhesive, but when I remove the screws most of the boards seem to remain fixed. I plan to remove all screws or those where the wood plugs over them have worn away, clean out the screw hole with a drill and fill the hole with epoxy and stick a new plug in with epoxy so that the wood plug is in effect taking the place of the screw. If any of the boards are loose or need replacing I will stick them down with epoxy (using any old screws to hold them down until cured) and then plug the holes. Keep all discarded board for making the teak plugs with. One advantage of this idea (if it works) is that until the teak wears through to the fibreglass you don't have to replace it and it remains fixed. I have always thought that to bore about 957 holes in a waterproof grp deck was madness, but even when epoxy became available it was not used for most decks because of the labour cost involved - you virtually have to lay one board at a time, holding it down from the area next door until it cures. Let me know if you can see any insuperable snags in my idea, which I haven't put in place yet as I am working on other areas of the boat, which is under cover and therefore drying out thoroughly.

 

[Anonymous]

The usual technique is to drill the clearance holes in the teak a little deeper (using a depth gague), and replace the screws perhaps with shorter ones if necessary, then replace and/or renew the plugs. If you deviate from standard procedures you stand to reduce the value of your boat however sensible the procedure sounds.

 

[rigpigpaul]

Hi Rob, the teak is about 5mm thick and it is laid on a GRP deck. The boat is a sigma 41 1982,
Paul

 

[Metabarca]

I too have this problem (Centurion 32, 1974). The teak is now about 5mm thick (was 9!) and some of the screws no longer grip; the edges of the teak in some cases also curl upwards. The teak was laid on the GRP deck.
A former director of the yacht manufacturer who now restores these boats said I should use Sikaflex to bond the teak to the deck, not epoxy, and I shall do this in the few areas that require it. You may be interested to know that Hallberg Rassy will sell you teak plugs and suitable screws (at outrageous cost!). Check out their website.

 

[roly_voya]

When faced with similar problems on ply subdecks I have sucessfully used Bolcon injected between the teak and the deck through a small hole. This foams and expands as it cures and that drives it into all the corners and is very effective at waterproofing and rebonding where some areas have gon but nat all. May be good as a 'temp' solution for a couple off years before deck is replaced

 

[dweeze]

I've just torn up and replaced teak deck, cabins, cockpit, blah blah on our boat. Have relaid with ply sub 5mm (epoxied) with teak (epoxied) on cabin roofes. Few tips -

5mm is thin to start with. Expect to need to clean /plane the old boards if your going to replace them. This will take off 1-4 mm depending on bend.

Watch moisture level in the boards - they've been impregnated with salt and epoxy doesnt like high moisture levels.

Teak boards may be hard to get up intact but can give you tips if you want.

Watch when drilling out the old plugs - if your replacing with new ones your standard size is 10 and 12.7 MM.

Heating the epoxy at the bottom of the holes when removing screws makes it all a little faster.

Watch wet core. - Your deck leaks - and it must go somewhere - most likely down the screw thread.

If replacing the deck traditionally (screws and adh. sealant) think about drilling all holes oversize and epoxying to make them safe for later (when (not if) they decide to leak again)

if epoxying boards back down think about doing a ply sub first.

If epoxying watch weighting boards etc - you can screw them down and then re-fill the holes later. If doing this put something to impeded bonding otherwise your screws probably wont come out.

There is a heap more tips i can give but have to shoot off.Pm me with more details if you want.

Tim.