TAMD63P Stop solenoid

philipdawsonladds said:
Just back from the boat - tested the ignition switch and all OK with power in and out - tested the power feed down to the "solenoid" and positive when key turned to stop = problem with the fuel valve unit itself I guess. I'll follow your recommendation to remove and soak in brake fluid and test again. What is the PMV??
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Brake cleaner
 
Getting there. Just removed the power connector to the stop valve. I expected 2 terminals but there are 3. One marked +, the others 1 & 2. Before I connect 24v would you agree that + = positive and one of the other 2 or both, negative?
 
UPDATE - Progress I think - removed the magnet from the fuel valve and connected 24v to the terminal marked + and negative to each of the other terminals in turn on the magnet - screwdriver inside magnet and zero result. I think this means that the magnet (solenoid) is defective. I will check this again by reconnecting the magnet to the cable from the ignition and get someone to turn the key to stop and see if anything happens. A passing engineer suggested swopping the magnets over from the other engine to see what happens. This would at least confirm or not that the magnet is my problem. Sort of suprising as what can go wrong with a magnet? I'll let you all know what occurs.
 
volvopaul said:
The valve not the coil is susceptible to seizing up , take it off and soak it in brake cleaner and push the valve with a small screwdriver, if you look close you can see the ports close to block the fuel flow, then fit it back to the coil and watch it while someone turns the key , if it doesn’t move remove it then place a screwdriver inside the coil hole , apply the stop again and see if the magnet grabs the screwdriver, if it doesn’t then it’s electrical problem.
If it does then you have a fuel supply issue whereby the fuel enters the pump via the return pipe .
Fuel tanks that have a stack tube on the return can allow fuel back to the pump if the PMV has failed , common problem on that Bosch pump .

What make and model of boat is it?
plenty for you to test
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Paul, I've swopped the electro magnet from the port engine to test if that was at fault. It turns out that the valve must be the issue as you suggested initially. Before I do anything stupid, when I unbolt the valve should I be watching out for springs or gaskets and will fuel start flowing out? I can turn off the supply and perhaps put something under to catch any parts that jump out. Can I reuse any gaskets? Thanks. Nearly there.
 
Paul - an update - I had some help today and tested the connector to the magnet - +ve and -ve both OK. Since I had already tried the functioning magnet from the other engine here, I deduce that the problem must be the valve. I removed it and took a look (photo). It was a little hard to push the inner tube but I did and flushed some bits out. Now soaking in brake fluid until tomorrow. In it's "relaxed" state I can see small openings around the central
 

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FINAL UPDATE - thanks to VolvoPaul for the advice - first suggestion and the simplest was the solution. I removed the stop valve, soaked in clutch cleaner overnight and it worked perfectly. There was clearly some residue stuck around the valve which flushed off. So all OK now.
 
I know this is an old thread but just a word of thanks after finding it with the search. Soaked my valve overnight in brake clean and the shutdown works like a charm now. Big relief seeing the part is nearly $700
 
I’ve got the same problem now. I’ve tested the solenoid coil pulling the shut off valve and it clearly moves backwards and forwards on switch operation. It’s soaking in brake cleaner now. I had it out earlier this year and cleaned it and it’s been ok this season until yesterday. VP mentioned the PMV as a known failure. I can only find a part called an overflow valve in the return line to the tank fitted on the injection pump. Is this the same part? It’s readily available so looks like a common problem. I’ve attached a photo IMG_2341.jpeg
 
I had a similar experience. Switched the solenoid from the other engine to confirm the issue then simply replaced the solenoid. Prices were pretty high most places but I eventually found it for about £200. No problems since touch wood.
 
I’ve swapped the solenoid coil over to the other engine and it works fine. The good engine solenoid does not stop the problem engine. To be fair I never expected it to, both magnetised a screwdriver ok. Luckily the access is good and only took a few minutes to eliminate the solenoid. If soaking in brake cleaner has no effect will try swapping the shut off valve. My gut feeling is shut off valve is ok
 
Timeless 2 said:
I’ve got the same problem now. I’ve tested the solenoid coil pulling the shut off valve and it clearly moves backwards and forwards on switch operation. It’s soaking in brake cleaner now. I had it out earlier this year and cleaned it and it’s been ok this season until yesterday. VP mentioned the PMV as a known failure. I can only find a part called an overflow valve in the return line to the tank fitted on the injection pump. Is this the same part? It’s readily available so looks like a common problem. I’ve attached a photo View attachment 180312
Click to expand...
Yes that’s it , If it’s failed it allows the system to draw fuel from the tank if your tank has a stack tube into the tank on the return line , all princess models have this I know .
 
Thanks Paul. If the soak in brake cleaner does not fix it I’ll order one in. I suspected there was another problem for some time. You did my pre purchase inspection with Nick at Shepperton in 2020. I’ve no idea if there is a dip tube in the tank, it’s a Fairline. I’ve sorted out the items you mentioned and the boat had been great since.
 
Timeless 2 said:
Thanks Paul. If the soak in brake cleaner does not fix it I’ll order one in. I suspected there was another problem for some time. You did my pre purchase inspection with Nick at Shepperton in 2020. I’ve no idea if there is a dip tube in the tank, it’s a Fairline. I’ve sorted out the items you mentioned and the boat had been great since.
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Ah yes the 43 AC I remember now , I often found the heat created in the engine room had some bearing on problems , I doubt you have stack tubes . It’s a weird system how it works and is hard to understand.
 
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