Pleinmont
Well-Known Member
Nice one, thanks ?
Seems like a good bit of housekeeping I could tackle over the winter.
Seems like a good bit of housekeeping I could tackle over the winter.
TAMD41P exhaust elbow
- Thread starter Jamie Dundee
- Start date
oldgit
Well-Known Member
Virtually impossible to get right inside the elbow and remove hidden internal scale. Wether by chemical or physical actions.
If the external water exits are as bad as some of the pictures you will never clean out the interior.
If you refit and some of the internal scale becomes dislodged at later date it could totally block the riser, it may well be then a case of you discovering the overheat via the alarms before something goes bang or seizes.
The simplest,cheapest, but possibly two most critical things to keep an eye on are the impellers and the risers.
Refit a doubtful alternator or iffy air filter back on and not much happens.
Pleinmont
Well-Known Member
Good point ?
Will give mine a visual check and see how bad it looks before deciding on course of action.
russ
Well-Known Member
This post has got me thinking whether to just replace my 16 year old risers on my AD41-P engines. Regardless of their appearance. As mentioned its a cheap fix in comparison to the damage it could cause.
Bandit
Well-Known Member
If you look at mine on page 1 I think, preventative maintenance is better than repair, I have seen some injection bends coming off 40 series engines and KAD 300's that have been left way to long, leaking, cracking and failing. Any doubt replace them, reduce back pressure on your seawater coolling system and cool your engine and exhaust properly. On a seawater cooled engine the even spray of lots of water in an exhaust hose is the only thing stopping your exhaust hose catching fire.
PaulR
Well-Known Member
interested in how easy or not it was to remove exhaust hose from elbow?
any helpful tips please
any helpful tips please
Plum
Well-Known Member
The hose on mine was "stuck" to the elbow after the hoseclips were removed. However, it was not stuck to the water-trap so it was very easy to remove the elbow together with the short piece of hose. Then, with the elbow on the floor it eas easy to work a blunt screwdriver around the hose to lever and break the bond to the elbow.
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
julians
Well-Known Member
On my D4 it was stuck, but a lot of wiggling and twisting of the elbow freed it up.
Jamie Dundee
Well-Known Member
I removed the hose from the water trap to get if off the boat, easy. Once home I tightened the hose into a vice and, reasonably easily, twisted the elbow free.
russ
Well-Known Member
Both elbows removed today and showing significant amount of corrosion. Now shopping around for a good price.
Do the gaskets need changing from pipe connection?
Do the gaskets need changing from pipe connection?
Jamie Dundee
Well-Known Member
If you mean the blank and the water inlet I bought exhaust gasket material on ebay and made my own.
BOAT ENGINE METAL EXHAUST GASKET MATERIAL & CARD PACK x | eBay
russ
Well-Known Member
Update. I've cleaned the risers up and they look quite good. There is still a lot of metal left and so I will repaint and use for another year.
Also bought new rubbers and hose.
Would red oxide paint help in anyway or just waisting time and money?
Also bought new rubbers and hose.
Would red oxide paint help in anyway or just waisting time and money?
paradave
Well-Known Member
I’ve just had my exhaust elbow (tamd41p) replaced and have noticed a big improvement in the steam and engine temp while testing it today.
There was hardly any steam below 10knots and only really started seeing any at about 14+.
It normally runs at 85° at cruise speed and drops to 80° when pottering around but today stuck at 80° regardless. It also felt much more responsive and faster but maybe that’s just because it’s been serviced too or that the kids weren’t on board (only 50kg the pair though).
There was hardly any steam below 10knots and only really started seeing any at about 14+.
It normally runs at 85° at cruise speed and drops to 80° when pottering around but today stuck at 80° regardless. It also felt much more responsive and faster but maybe that’s just because it’s been serviced too or that the kids weren’t on board (only 50kg the pair though).
DavidJ
Well-Known Member
On the strength of this thread I bought a couple of elbows for my never replaced KAD43 ones. Bought from Keypart but I did notice an easy to peal off “Made in China” sticker (on one unit)
I wonder if they are the same as eBay ones which are £50 cheaper.
I wonder if they are the same as eBay ones which are £50 cheaper.
Jamie Dundee
Well-Known Member
You probably won't notice any steam come the warmer weather, good result
oldgit
Well-Known Member
41 elbow on ebay at around £190 last week.
Exhaust Elbow for Volvo Penta Diesel TAMD31, TAMD41, KAD32, KAD42, TMD 31861289 | eBay
suspect all made in China ?
Exhaust Elbow for Volvo Penta Diesel TAMD31, TAMD41, KAD32, KAD42, TMD 31861289 | eBay
suspect all made in China ?
Jamie Dundee
Well-Known Member
Being supplied from Hong Kong it would be a safe bet.
PowerYachtBlog
Well-Known Member
To my knowledge these serve from 5 to 10 years. I think the most one served me was like 11. I always changed with new Volvo ones
Pleinmont
Well-Known Member
Nice job, keen to get mine done in the coming months.
Bandit
Well-Known Member
An exhaust elbow /seawater cooling injection bend is a component with a finite life.
Remember boats only breakdown when you are using them.
A breakdown in season will lose you boat use while you source parts and effect repairs.
As noted by paradave
As I said previously:
This is one of my Exhausts from a Volvo Penta TAMD 63p at 13 years old alongside its replacement
The problem in mine apart from the bend to the water injection bend failing is the blockage to the water flow on the exhaust.
It is essential that you get a good spray of seawater to cool the exhaust system. I think mine between back pressure and flow was down over 50% .
Yours looks 80% or more occluded.
Before you jump to stainless steel as a universal panacea, it is not, one boat we look after with stainless injection bends replaces them every 7 years or so.
Stainless steel causes as many problems as it solves.
How old is the injection bend you have ?
Attachments
In my view preventative maintenance is far better than cure, and on this item probably replace as a rule of thumb when 12 years old or when you see a leak , engine overheating or corrosion.
Remember boats only breakdown when you are using them.
A breakdown in season will lose you boat use while you source parts and effect repairs.
As noted by paradave
As I said previously:
This is one of my Exhausts from a Volvo Penta TAMD 63p at 13 years old alongside its replacement
The problem in mine apart from the bend to the water injection bend failing is the blockage to the water flow on the exhaust.
It is essential that you get a good spray of seawater to cool the exhaust system. I think mine between back pressure and flow was down over 50% .
Yours looks 80% or more occluded.
Before you jump to stainless steel as a universal panacea, it is not, one boat we look after with stainless injection bends replaces them every 7 years or so.
Stainless steel causes as many problems as it solves.
How old is the injection bend you have ?
Attachments
IMG_4895 (Large).JPG
435.6 KBViews: 85
In my view preventative maintenance is far better than cure, and on this item probably replace as a rule of thumb when 12 years old or when you see a leak , engine overheating or corrosion.
