Talurit splices for standing rigging

[ducked]

Hand swager and Talurit use different ferrules. Talurit are oval smooth, while hand press ones are creased to allow compression.

I had another look at the

Stainless Steel Chain, Wire Rope & Marine Fittings | GS Products site

They only sell Talurit ferrules, which, from the illustrations are smooth, and they dont mention needing anything else for ther relatively cheapo (60 quid) hand swager.

This time around though I noticed they also sell a "Sailors Tongs" model hand swager which does up to 6mm and is actually made by Talurit

Steel Wire Rope Crimping Sailor Tongs 5mm - 6mm | Talurit

Perhaps the swagers on that site are exceptions to "hand press ones are creased"?

The "tong" model is 500 quid though, which might be sufficient to motivate me to try to learn how to do a wire splice.

 

[Refueler]

Hand swager and Talurit use different ferrules. Talurit are oval smooth, while hand press ones are creased to allow compression.

Many ships carry a hand operated crimp tool for large ferrules ... it attaches tags / fire appliance items in place etc ... and correct - the ferrules have ridges and once crimped (terrible word because the amount of force applied is significant - you need to have your Shredded Wheat that morning !!) .. the ferrule looks 'concertina'd' ...

 

[DownWest]

Many ships carry a hand operated crimp tool for large ferrules ... it attaches tags / fire appliance items in place etc ... and correct - the ferrules have ridges and once crimped (terrible word because the amount of force applied is significant - you need to have your Shredded Wheat that morning !!) .. the ferrule looks 'concertina'd' ...

I was thinking of Nicorpress, which are the ones used by local chandleries, though they sell the smooth ones, which is handy.
Nicor usually are pressed twice, as the crimp is narrow.

 

[ducked]

So that would be"Some non-Talurit hand-pressed swages, including some used on ships, are creased" then?

Certainly worth bearing in mind if considering buying tools on the Internyet, where they are very likely to be inadequately described. Generally they dont seem to specify the ferrule type, though some of the swagers have Nicopress in the name.

 

[Refueler]

I was thinking of Nicorpress, which are the ones used by local chandleries, though they sell the smooth ones, which is handy.
Nicor usually are pressed twice, as the crimp is narrow.

All experienced riggers I knew and had work done insisted that two presses are only if ferrule is longer than the pressing machine. They made plain that double pressing same area can create internal damage / cracks that later can lead to increased crevice corrosion and possible failure.

I'm no rigger - so I take the word of experienced guys who do this work day after day ..

I've even seen a yard rigger condemn a stay - that a young guy learning the job did double press.

 

[Sumara of Weymouth]

All experienced riggers I knew and had work done insisted that two presses are only if ferrule is longer than the pressing machine. They made plain that double pressing same area can create internal damage / cracks that later can lead to increased crevice corrosion and possible failure.

I'm no rigger - so I take the word of experienced guys who do this work day after day ..

I've even seen a yard rigger condemn a stay - that a young guy learning the job did double press.

Using the correctly matched ferrule with a die in good condition on the correct hydraulic press will form a perfect circular ferrule with thin fins each side which will break off by hand. One stroke of a file will give a perfect result. The crucial thing is to then measure the final diameter with calipers and ensure it perfectly matches the specification. In my experience this final check can not be achieved on wires above about 3 mm without using a substantial bench mounted hydraulic press. Proof testing is no longer done under loads, it is basically a confirmation that the operation has been performed correctly and the final diameter ( and length) of the compressed ferrule are within tolerance. It is my opinion that if you need to work with a hand tool then Nicopress would be better following the correct order of multiple bites. Beware of matching ferrules to wires as a different ferrule size is used depending whether the wire is fibre core or wire core. If the assembly is for lifting purposes or safety related it is probably best to use a competent, trained and qualified rigger, there are too many chances to mess things up.

 

[DownWest]

Using the correctly matched ferrule with a die in good condition on the correct hydraulic press will form a perfect circular ferrule with thin fins each side which will break off by hand. One stroke of a file will give a perfect result. The crucial thing is to then measure the final diameter with calipers and ensure it perfectly matches the specification. In my experience this final check can not be achieved on wires above about 3 mm without using a substantial bench mounted hydraulic press. Proof testing is no longer done under loads, it is basically a confirmation that the operation has been performed correctly and the final diameter ( and length) of the compressed ferrule are within tolerance. It is my opinion that if you need to work with a hand tool then Nicopress would be better following the correct order of multiple bites. Beware of matching ferrules to wires as a different ferrule size is used depending whether the wire is fibre core or wire core. If the assembly is for lifting purposes or safety related it is probably best to use a competent, trained and qualified rigger, there are too many chances to mess things up.

The little fins are produced by Talurit swaging blocks in their press. The blocks allow a space for them. It does not apply to hand swagers.