Talamex Dinghy - fixed oars annoying - any other options?

[Pleinmont]

I used to have a 240 Zodiac tender that did me well but eventually perished.
Whilst the sliding collar rowlock style oar fitting used to break regularly at least I could slide the oars in/out to fit my rowing style and passengers in the dinghy - nice and easy to row.

I've since bought a 250 Talamex and the totally fixed oars now drive me mad as when rowing I'm constantly hitting passengers in the knees (the oars end up feeling too long inside the boat).
It makes the bigger Talamex feel like it's half the size with passengers as they can't get far enough away from my oars.

Does anyone know if you can get a sliding collar type oar that will fit the Talamex pin type fixing?
With davit pads glued on it's £1000 invested so I don't want to have to get another dinghy but would welcome better oars!
Thanks

Fixed Talamex oars

Sliding Zodiac style

 

[DAKA]

I used to have a 240 Zodiac tender that did me well but eventually perished.
Whilst the sliding collar rowlock style oar fitting used to break regularly at least I could slide the oars in/out to fit my rowing style and passengers in the dinghy - nice and easy to row.

I've since bought a 250 Talamex and the totally fixed oars now drive me mad as when rowing I'm constantly hitting passengers in the knees (the oars end up feeling too long inside the boat).
It makes the bigger Talamex feel like it's half the size with passengers as they can't get far enough away from my oars.

Does anyone know if you can get a sliding collar type oar that will fit the Talamex pin type fixing?
With davit pads glued on it's £1000 invested so I don't want to have to get another dinghy but would welcome better oars!
Thanks

Fixed Talamex oars
View attachment 172763View attachment 172765
Sliding Zodiac style
View attachment 172764

Cut the plastic handles off and slide a white 1 1/2 inch drain pipe over the ends and you have telescopic oars
one will also double up as an outboard tiller extension too

 

[Boathook]

Could you buy the zodiac 'system' and modify it to fit the talamex ? Both look similar design stuck on the dinghy.

 

[Pleinmont]

Cut the plastic handles off and slide a white 1 1/2 inch drain pipe over the ends and you have telescopic oars
one will also double up as an outboard tiller extension too

Thanks - interesting suggestion! I've just worked out what you mean. Might just work!

 

[Pleinmont]

Could you buy the zodiac 'system' and modify it to fit the talamex ? Both look similar design stuck on the dinghy.

Ah yes, that's a good idea.
I'll ask the RIB repair chap who fitted my davit pads about removing the existing rowlock pads and gluing on some replacement Zodiac fittings. I understand you can remove those glued on fittings from a PVC dinghy if you go carefully.
Thanks

 

[colhel]

I've it easier to row our dinghy in reverse as I have the same issue as you. They'd probably need beefing up somehow, but I wonder if the holes in the oars could be made into slots

 

[rotrax]

If you intend to row your tender, common sense suggests you should have bought a rigid type or use an auxillary motor.

We have, and use extensively, a Talamex 'Superlight'.

Exactly the same shortcomings as yours as far as rowing goes.

Which is why the oars are always installed when in use, but are for emergency use only, should our old Suzuki outboard fail.

 

[ylop]

Thanks - interesting suggestion! I've just worked out what you mean. Might just work!

I think that will actually do the opposite from you want? It will mean the oars are longer (and probably clash with each other as well as the pax knees) unless you gut down the metal too - my concern would be you then have a lot of leverage on a hollow plastic pipe.

But on the same lines you should be able to drill a second hole to give an alternative fulcrum. The hole is obviously “sleeved” in plastic and it may be that some waste pipe is a good option for that.

 

[Bandit]

IIRC, The plastic collar that the oar attaches slots through has a rivet stopping it sliding up or down? drill that out and position it where you want and then re rivet it, drill the ally oar out to the same diameter as the original hole and bobs your uncle.
The pin fixed to the dinghy that slots through the oar takes an M10 stainless steel nut to replace the plastic dome nut.

The rain stopped at Pleinmont at 1424 today when we were soaked walking the dog!

 

[Pleinmont]

If you intend to row your tender, common sense suggests you should have bought a rigid type or use an auxillary motor.

We have, and use extensively, a Talamex 'Superlight'.

Exactly the same shortcomings as yours as far as rowing goes.

Which is why the oars are always installed when in use, but are for emergency use only, should our old Suzuki outboard fail.

Rigid not an option as needed something light and inflatable for the swim platform and me being able to lift it.
I use the outboard for longer runs but rowing is preferable a lot of the time for short trips to shore.

 

[Pleinmont]

IIRC, The plastic collar that the oar attaches slots through has a rivet stopping it sliding up or down? drill that out and position it where you want and then re rivet it, drill the ally oar out to the same diameter as the original hole and bobs your uncle.
The pin fixed to the dinghy that slots through the oar takes an M10 stainless steel nut to replace the plastic dome nut.

The rain stopped at Pleinmont at 1424 today when we were soaked walking the dog!

Ah, now that's a good idea! Will be easy enough to drill out the old rivet, drill a hole and reposition the oar collar and re-rivet it again.
Will check next time I'm down the marina.
Thanks

Not sure there's been 24hrs without rain since October!

 

[Bandit]

It has certainly been a wet winter, at least every time it rains people are no longer saying " ah but the ground needs it" !

 

[rich]

You could try a kayak paddle.

 

[Pleinmont]

You could try a kayak paddle.

Could do, but I think drilling a new hole and riveting the collar back in place like Bandit suggested will sort the problem

 

[DAKA]

Could do, but I think drilling a new hole and riveting the collar back in place like Bandit suggested will sort the problem

It will certainly solve the problem however you may regret it in a strong wind or current as you will not have any leverage to pull against.

 

[dunedin]

Ah, now that's a good idea! Will be easy enough to drill out the old rivet, drill a hole and reposition the oar collar and re-rivet it again.
Will check next time I'm down the marina.
Thanks

Not sure there's been 24hrs without rain since October!

If the issue is the inner ends being too close, why not simply take the plastic handles off, shorten the ends of the tube by a few centimetres and put handles back on. I fear extra holes at the pivot point will weaken the oars.

 

[Pleinmont]

If the issue is the inner ends being too close, why not simply take the plastic handles off, shorten the ends of the tube by a few centimetres and put handles back on. I fear extra holes at the pivot point will weaken the oars.

I had a look and actually there's more chance of getting the handles off than the collar (middle collar seems to be glued not riveted).
Your version of the idea might be more doable

Only need an inch or maybe two taken off to give a bit more knee clearance.

 

[dunedin]

I had a look and actually there's more chance of getting the handles off than the collar (middle collar seems to be glued not riveted).
Your version of the idea might be more doable

Only need an inch or maybe two taken off to give a bit more knee clearance.

Start with an inch and try that before removing two?

 

[Pleinmont]

Start with an inch and try that before removing two?

Sounds like a sensible plan to me!