Suzuki problems

EASLOOP

EASLOOP

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I have an ancient Suzuki 2 O/B. When I am running at about half throttle the egine performs well. If I open up the throttle the engine starts to die; if I reduce throttle the engine revives. Does anyone have a suggestuion as to how I can fix this?
 
Sounds like fuel starvation - check: fuel pump and filter (take pipe of carb and pull it over - should be a healthy spurt)
Check carburettor: sticking needle valve or muck in it, float sticking holding valve partially shut?

Clean carb thoroughly.

My instinct = duff pump, perhaps pinhole in diaphraghm or clogged fuel filter. Motorcycle filters are dead cheap and easy to fit.
 
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EASLOOP said:
I have an ancient Suzuki 2 O/B. When I am running at about half throttle the egine performs well. If I open up the throttle the engine starts to die; if I reduce throttle the engine revives. Does anyone have a suggestuion as to how I can fix this?
Click to expand...

I know I get really repetitive about these engines, but have you tried changing the plug?
 
I agree with Dogwatch. Try a new plug first.

As suggested check fuel flow to carb ... but if it has an integral fuel tank it probably will not actually have a pump! In fact I am pretty sure it does not

Check filter in tank outlet. It's part of the fuel cock assy.

Does partly closing the choke help? If so it is almost certainly in need of a carb clean.


Diagrams of DT2 HERE
 
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Thanks people. I did not know it had a fuel filter? Have though about the plug though. I will clean the carb etc and fit a new plug as a matter of course.
Thanks again
 
Apologies if this is thread drift but I have also had a Suzuki 2.2 2 stroke problem. A couple of times this season I have popped the motor onto the bracket of the dinghy, (after a thirty mile drive with the engine upright strapped to the back of a car seat), gone to start her up and found petrol dripping (running) out the casing. I wonder if I have flooded the carburettor and that is supposed to happen, or have I overfilled the tank. I have found no source of the leak and have successfully started the engine a few minutes later so it has been a mystery. (Previously I have had a broken fuel tap but that is nothing to do with it). Note I only find this problem when I have opened the tap and the air intake on the cap as I am starting the motor. Could it be release of pressure when the fuel in the tank has been expanding due to higher temperatures in the back of the car compared to where I store the outboard? I'm clutching at straws!
 
hijack.gif

I cannot begin to think why you you carry the engine upright strapped to the back of the car seat. I just put mine in the back lying down.

Maybe your fuel tank tap is letting by slightly and the pressure that builds up in the tank is forcing fuel past it.
Maybe your float valve is not seating perfectly and fuel is being forced past it too.

Do you open the tank vent to release the pressure before opening the tap? Maybe if you open the tap first the pressure is forcing fuel past the needle valve and flooding the carb although I usually do that to fill the carb bowl as quickly as possible!

If it becomes a problem then look at/ clean/ replace the float valve.
 
Hi Vic
Thanks for your reply. Your first Q is easy. Once kids are in the car ( a people carrier with very modest boot) there is no space to lie it down if avon dinghy and picnic etc are coming too.
I need to brush up on my understanding of carburretors (apologies) but would I be right to conclude that fuel can escape from the carb somewhere (or another part of the system) if motor fails to start.
Dave
PS I normally open both the vent and the tap at the same time pretty much. Also I have only had this problem twice over the summer despite a good season (about 15 trips to the boat)
 
Typical small Suzi carb shown here http://store.brownspoint.com/DT2/fig005-28697.asp although there may be slight variations over the years. Same or similar carb used on many models, other makes too.

Built in to the carb body somewhere will be a vent although it is not shown on the diagram unikely though that excess fuel will actually escape via that ( Unlike the Seagulls which have vents near the top of the carb bowl itself )

If the carb floods the excess will probably come out via the air intake or escape into the engine itself and eventually come out out via the exhaust.

Lakesailor has recenly posted useful info on these small carbs. See http://www.lakelandimages.co.uk/Forum pics/info_engine/Tohatsu/
( But dont go exploring his other directories if SWMBO is looking over you shoulder!)
 
Thanks Vic. I'm planning to investigate as a winter project, fortunately with a bike mechanic friend up the road to fall back on if/when it doesn't work out.
 
a bike mechanic friend up the road
Click to expand...
Motor bike I hope you mean 'cos pedal cycles don't as a rule have carbs! :D

mind you this carb is so basic you'll need someone who remembers the old Villiers motor cycle engines from the 1950s ( Or Seagull outboards!)
 
I have abused my DT2 for best part of 30 years now and only replaced the plug last year due to cutout at tickover :o (NGK BR4HS) gap 0.6 to 0.7mm
It always starts 1st or 2nd pull

1 Gravity fed so no pump
2 Mix should be 100:1, (a plastic 35mm film container filled to the brim mixes EXACTLY three litres of fuel)
3 Check for c r a p in the bottom of the float chamber and in the fuel tank.
4 Pre 1990 - Clean the fuel filter on the side of the carb, they do oil up and cause fuel starvation, then ensure that you only ever put clean fuel in.
5 Make sure the air intake on the filler cap isn't blocked.
6 Put your hand over water outlets
- Temp should be quite warm but not very hot
- Flow should 'splatter' out and wet your whole hand within a few seconds.
If not happy with (6) and impeller is ok - take the head off and clean the water track, you might as well also decoke the head at this point. You will need a new head gasket #91114101-98411
7 Points (pre 1989) are on top of magneto under recoil assy, burnish them and check the gap. The capacitor #93234101-98430 is there as well, that might be breaking down.

Also see:
http://www.funpartsxpress.com/docs/parts/Parts_DT2.pdf
Part #'s are from USA
http://store.brownspoint.com/dt2.asp

Hope this helps :)
 
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I've had this occasionally.
Due to fuel float level valve in the carb. sticking in the open position.
nearly always caused by a tiny bit of dirt ot grit getting stuck in the valve .

Quickest fix is to remove carb bowl which will allow the float valve to drop (open) and the turn on fuel at the tap.
Large amounts of fuel should flush away the desbris.
Check by raising the float to operape the cut off valve.
 
i agree that you need to look at the float level in the carb.
i had the same problem a few weeks ago and when all taps were open and engine upright the fuel would leak out of the area of the air intake.
strip float bowl and float and hinge and pin and check all and then put back together and check float level. float level will be about 3mm. vic has diagram for reseting flaot levels etc
 
Hi Bav32
I'm presuming you are replying to my problem not to the OP's problem with fuel starvation. Looking forward to exploring the carb at the end of the season.

Hi Nyx2k. When you refer to the air intake I am guessing you are referring to inside the outboard casing on the carb not the air vent on the fuel cap.

Ladyinbed. Thanks for your pointers which are probably general to the post. My DT2.2 (bought 2003) runs on 50:1 which I know contradicts the manual but is what I was told to by the dealer. Since it has been a brilliant little runner I've carried on doing what I was told. Spoke to our flotilla mechanic on our holiday and he said 100:1 he used on poor starters, 50:1 on good starters. Maybe it doesn't matter too much? The one thing I have learnt this year is you don't realise how much you take your outboard for granted until it breaks down/does not start:o
 
Dave ,I had the problem with mine which occurred when the engine was in the tilted position on the transom and I forgot to turn off the fuel tap and vent; the next time it happened was when I had not run the engine dry after use, in fresh water, so that fuel remained in the bowl of the carb.
The first instance was definitely the float jamming and the second my negligence.
Couldn't find the filter on the tap end of the fuel pipe or the other (replace completely if damaged-Suzuki handbook says)

ianat182
 
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