Sunken boat project.

[Mr Googler]

Can i confirm…..everything electrical is going?

Those push switches are on ali express for pennies. N2K cabling might be saveable as its meant to be ip67 but thats shallow submersion for 30mins

 

[Ribtecer]

Cheap Chinese switches in a marine environment is going to be troublesome in my view.

But you pays your money and takes your choice.

Great project BTW

 

[Mr Googler]

Cheap Chinese switches in a marine environment is going to be troublesome in my view.

But you pays your money and takes your choice.

Great project BTW

I thought that but they are stainless (allegedly). I often wonder where the main stream ones come from anyway

 

[Ribtecer]

I thought that but they are stainless (allegedly). I often wonder where the main stream ones come from anyway

Stainless, an ambiguous term.

Good luck to you, not difficult to replace later on anyway.

Just buy cheap, buy twice.

 

[Hot Property]

Can i confirm…..everything electrical is going?

Those push switches are on ali express for pennies. N2K cabling might be saveable as its meant to be ip67 but thats shallow submersion for 30mins

Not nerissily.....

The nav light works. Horn, plotter gauges all seems ok.

The wiring and switches will need replacement.

I actually doubt that a replacement loom is available.

I suspect they run cables during construction then terminate as required.

I'll need to remove the plotter and sound amplifier to get better access, it's tight.

I was amazed that nothing went bang when I connected the battery.

Tomorrow I'll see if I can rig a fuel tank and put bigger battery back after charging.

I need to tighten the spark plugs as I only hand tightened them after inhibiting cylinders.

I've rescued the table and it's new as the previous owners bought a teak one.

The helm seat and pedestal are ready to attach, the lift mechanism was stiff so a squit of cf50? Corrosion inhibitor worked.

 

[Hot Property]

Update

I mostly fixed the helm seat and pedestal before the driver bit shattered..

The previous owner was short and had a custom pedestal fitted. So the original one was left in the boat.

I tightened all spark plugs, refitted the ignitors and connectors.

Tried starting to no avail. But it turns over nicely.

I also thought the fuel tank was full of salt water but when I pumped it into a container it's all petrol.

I'm ordering a new 110 a battery as the original ones are 5 years old and even showing 12.8 v after charging they are weak.

 

[Hot Property]

Update

Trailer collected and setting off early tomorrow to pick up new outboard.

It will be kept until I've sold the old engine (either as a runner or spares/repair.

I'm still hopeful that it will run up as it was apparently started soon after sinking.

Fuel seems ok. The kill switch maybe dodgy, plugs maybe fouled with oil.

I'll give it a good looking at once new battery is installed.

Often a low voltage on starting, prevents the ECU firing up. My verado 200 required AGM batteries to start all the electronic wizardry. (A bonkers supercharged straight 6 with 2.6 litres capacity).

I'll upload new engine photos when I open the (big) box.

 

[vas]

Battery next, I don't think I'm going lithium ion as a "cheap" LA one will do.

just a note, noone suggested you go li-ion (there aren't any for cars/boats afaik)
what was suggested was going for lifepo4 and (rightly so) dismissed as your pattern of use is not suited and you wont get a payback for the investment.

good luck getting the old engine firing up!
cheers

V.

 

[Hot Property]

just a note, noone suggested you go li-ion (there aren't any for cars/boats afaik)
what was suggested was going for lifepo4 and (rightly so) dismissed as your pattern of use is not suited and you wont get a payback for the investment.

good luck getting the old engine firing up!
cheers

V.

Ah ok. I used Lithium as a generic term. I.e. not lead acid.

Iv bought a 105A LA battery which turns the engine over nicely.

Tonight myself and a boatyard friend, installed the battery, used fresh fuel from a separate can, cleaned the plugs several times and, eventually the engine started!

There isn't any charge so we suspect the split charge relay is toast. Also the trim down switch cuts the engine. No doubt a salt water ingress problem.

Either way, she started with a big plume of smoke as all the inhibitor burnt off .

Well chuffed with progress as a running engine is worth loads more than one that doesn't!

Oh and new engine collected from Looe today as well..

 

[Hot Property]

Update

I'm chasing the fault that when I use down trim on the throttle it kills the engine.

Same issue with the engine mounted switch so I think something is shorting elsewhere.

The trim relay is a suspect so I'll do a test on that.

The Honda manual has lots of fault finding charts which is helpful.

I'm not getting a charge at the battery so I'm tracing the wires and disconnecting the split charge relay etc.

I'm minded to just rip out all the bilge electrical wiring and start again ..

 

[oldgit]

Update
I'm minded to just rip out all the bilge electrical wiring and start again ..

just a tip from my previous " Ahem" restorations, before you rip anything out, bypass/jury rig up something first to ensure it is the wiring thats the problem. In many instances the earth or ground wiring was frequently the culprit for something not working.
Have pulled out wires willy nilly with a "surely new wiring will solve the problem quicker/faster " only to discover later
(and having ensured more work) the problem was actually a result of something unsuspected elsewhere.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Update

I'm chasing the fault that when I use down trim on the throttle it kills the engine.

Same issue with the engine mounted switch so I think something is shorting elsewhere.

The trim relay is a suspect so I'll do a test on that.

The Honda manual has lots of fault finding charts which is helpful.

I'm not getting a charge at the battery so I'm tracing the wires and disconnecting the split charge relay etc.

I'm minded to just rip out all the bilge electrical wiring and start again ..

Sorry, but you are just wasting time and effort messing around tracing individual faults. Many things that seem to work now will give problems sooner or later and you'll forever fixing stuff. If it's been submerged, get it changed now. New wiring and any relays etc.

 

[PaulRainbow]

just a tip from my previous " Ahem" restorations, before you rip anything out, bypass/jury rig up something first to ensure it is the wiring thats the problem. In many instances the earth or ground wiring was frequently the culprit for something not working.
Have pulled out wires willy nilly with a "surely new wiring will solve the problem quicker/faster " only to discover later
(and having ensured more work)

the problem was actually a result of something unsuspected elsewhere.

You mean something like the boat being sunk ?

 

[Hot Property]

Sorry, but you are just wasting time and effort messing around tracing individual faults. Many things that seem to work now will give problems sooner or later and you'll forever fixing stuff. If it's been submerged, get it changed now. New wiring and any relays etc.

Agreed,

I've taken out nearly everything. It's in a shocking condition, not all caused by sinking I feel...

I'm now down to the outboard power leads directly onto the battery and the charge wire also attached to the +ve.

Starts ok but no charge alarm going off on the throttle unit ( which escaped a dunking, I checked all connectors as well).

It's likely the alternator is faulty but I'll ponder a while and study the wiring diagram before committing....

 

[Hot Property]

Update

I found the 150A fuse had blown on the outboard.

Also one of the relays looks suspect.

I'm considering getting a local honda guy down to fault find for me.

I don't know how good the diagnostic software is but it maybe worth a punt.


It could cost less than replacing anything I think that's broken!

 

[Mr Googler]

I have to ask…why are you doing this?

The engine has been sunk. Is the plan to sell it on?

 

[PaulRainbow]

Update

I found the 150A fuse had blown on the outboard.

Also one of the relays looks suspect.

I'm considering getting a local honda guy down to fault find for me.

I don't know how good the diagnostic software is but it maybe worth a punt.


It could cost less than replacing anything I think that's broken!

It's getting a bodge job now. Just replacing bits that don't work at the moment leaves all the other bits that will fail in the next few months.

 

[Hot Property]

I have to ask…why are you doing this?

The engine has been sunk. Is the plan to sell it on?

Yes as a runner..

 

[Hot Property]

It's getting a bodge job now. Just replacing bits that don't work at the moment leaves all the other bits that will fail in the next few months.

No it's not.

I have a brand new BF200 at home.

This will be fitted once I've sold the existing engine. ( With full disclosure regarding the dunking).