Stopping tools rusting

LadyStardust

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Does anyone have any tips for stopping tools from rusting when left onboard for a long time.
I have heard of sawdust and camphor as being a traditional method, I presume there are more modern ways, and if not, does anyone know where one buys Camphor (and sawdust for that matter).
I presume silica gel would work in theory?


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Vara

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<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.enginewise.co.uk/corrosion-inhibitor.php> HERE</A>

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boatmike

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You can spray SWMBO with it too. Keeps her soft and smooth after she has washed up all the dishes. There is some tendancy to slide out of bed at night if overdone though......

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kds

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Pardey just sprays WD40 int the inside of his toolbow each time he closes it. Seems to work for him and that is good enough for me.
Ken

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tcm

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yep wd 40 is the way to go. However, tools going rusty is a good indicator it is too damp on board, cos the kitchen hinges will be next to tarnish. Spray wd 40 and wipe it off.

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castaway

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The old shipwrights used Oak chippings.. I think the chippin's have tannin or somesuch in them.

I think that the anti rust potion 'Fertan' uses the same or synthesised version, and I find that this is a very good if crude way to provent rust in a old fashioned way (ie can be splashed on in any conditions)

I would actually hate to go to my tool bax and find all the tools covered in WD40 ...yuk!.

All best Nick.....

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huldah

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Many oils were originally poorly refined and thus contaminated with oxygen hungry resins. It was these resins that stuck to the surface of metals and protected them. These oils had a short life, as they hardened with time, making them unsuitable for modern machinery with long service intervals.

Some modern engine oils disappear rapidly if sprayed on metals outdoors. However farmers still protect their machines with oil, so perhaps these oils are formulated for rust protection. Worth asking your friendly farmer.

Philip

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richardandtracy

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Silica Gel will work excellently. It isn't easy to get hold of in the quantities you'll need & it should be used in an impermeable container (plastics are surprisingly permeable & allow the desiccant to become saturated remarkably quickly). To avoid any deterioration by this method you'll need the RH down around 50% or below. The equilibrium RH-Absorption curve of Silica gel indicated that the gel will have absorbed approx 25% of its weight in water at 50% RH. Until then the equilibrium RH will be lower. Other desiccants (like molecular sieves) are less efficient at 50% RH than silica gel & cost more.
Desiccant calculations in accordance with Def Stan 81-41 (see <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dstan.mod.uk/>http://www.dstan.mod.uk/</A> and navigate to 81-41) are remarkably accurate if you know the water vapour transmission rate of the barrier. It's zero for a sealed metal box..

Beyond that, try Screwfix. I've only got an old catalogue with me, however there is an aerosol called 'Rust Barrier', Code D17651. It may not be in the latest one.

Finally, for the 'Heath Robinson' complexity over functionality method:- Purge the boat with dry nitrogen and maintain a steady seepage of nitrogen into the vessel to maintain the RH below the critical 50%. When you want to use the boat, remember to ventilate properly first!

Regards

Richard.


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BarryH

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Go to any gun shop and buy yourself a couple of sachets of VP90. Leave them in the toolbox and you'll have no more rust. Its also comes in spray form. Been kepping my guns and tools rust free for years.

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