Stern to mooring in the Aeolian islands

[rwilson]

Hello all, I am chartering a Dufour 36 this september, with my wife only as company, and we will be visiting the Aeolian islands. I understand that the format is to moor stern on bow to. I have no experience in mooring this way so do any of you worldly people have any gems of advice you could offer me regarding mooring techniques.

Also do any of you know of any 'must go to places' ie ports, anchorages etc I should aim to visit during that week.

regards richard /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[stephenh]

Google "mediterranean mooring" and take your pick.
Take care in Lipari - the Town Quay has built in wave breakers, it can be quite spectacular with an onshore swell.....

good luck - and do go to Stromboli - the oldest lighthouse in the world !!

 

[alan]

I stayed in Lipari at Pignataro (on the right as you approach Lipari) and an uncomfortable few days were had on the floating pontoons ......... every time a ferry goes in and out you get a lot of movement. If you want to stay there then try and get a berth right inside Pignataro on the more permaqnent berths where the movement is less.
At Stromboli you can moor to a buoy (there is only a small quay which the tourists boats use to drop off passengers) but it can rough in the Aeolian islands. I arrived near the end of July (two years ago) in 50+ knots of wind and couldn't make any headway into Lipari; I had to duck under the cliffs and wait for an hour or so for the wind to drop off to 30 Knots and then I was able to sneek in.
Aeolie means "windy" in greek (or so I am told by my wife ..... and she must be correct!!) and there is a lot of wind in these islands, so take care, but they are well worth visiting. Make sure you have sufficient chain for anchoring as the depths go from 2 metres to 30 metres in seconds!!!

Buon vento (fair winds),

Alan.

 

[Richard10002]

Richard,

I'm guessing you may be a bit averse to anchoring with only SWMBO aboard, and then only for company, (have I got that right, or is she a sailor?).

Having said that, here are our anchoring experiences:

We anchored for 4 nights on the NE corner of Stromboli, between the 2 villages, but if you can get a mooring buoy, that might be better, (I dont know how you get one but there are 4 or 5 blokes who look like Captain Haddock in the Birds Eye adverts, who seem to be involved in lots of boaty and ferry things - I would hazard a guess that they could help). Dinghy ashore onto the volcanic sand beach, and walk to the bars near the pier, and up the hill to the square at the top. Not to be missed. We left one morning when the wind got up ... it was only about 20knots, but there were some biggish waves, some boats hadnt dug in and were dragging past us, and it was time to move on anyway. Could have re-anchored on the South side of the island, but we headed for Lipari, where the marinas gave us short shrift - "Dont be daft! It's August" was the gist of their responses, (I would guess they will have space in September - it seems that Italy goes on holiday in August, and all the marinas are full - I've been in Taormina Bay for almost 2 weeks now and, for the first week, there were plenty of boats at anchor day and night. This week, since Tuesday, there has been a maximum of 4, so I'm guessing last week was the last of the big holiday weeks.

So we put Plan B into action and headed for Vulcano - initially intending to anchor in Porto Poniente, (which is a nice straightforward anchorage if there is space, or if the wind is light when you anchor), but the wind changed and increased, so we went round the other side to Porto Levante .. where we got 2 surprises:

1) whilst we were trawling round the bay looking for somewhere to drop the hook, Janet pulled a face like you wouldnt believe, and I got the whiff of rotten eggs. There is a BIG mound of sulphur at the edge of the bay, and it stinks... but dont let that put you off.

2) As we were motoring between anchored boats, the depth was 50m, 40m, 30m, then 10m, (but we were now amongst the mooring buoys!). I asked an American if he was really anchored in 30m - his anchor was in 10m, but he was sitting over 30m, "I'll have to move if the wind changes".

In the end, we gingerly checked the North side of the bay, dropped the anchor in 4m, pretty close to the shore .... it dragged through the grass until at 10m it found black sand and got a bit of a hold. I snorkelled over it to make sure it was good to set, and got Janet to reverse on it whilst i watched it - worked a treat, and a good exercise in how it works in real life, on a downward slope. As long as there was some North in the wind, we would be fine, and the GRIBs etc. showed N'ly for a few days.

On morning 4, we awoke to a changing wind, and I felt we were going to get pushed a bit too close to the shore, so I enquired about a mooring buoy, (the hill billy type outfit with a small jetty on the N side of the bay). We were well and truly ripped off at 50 euros for the night, but we stretched it to 2am the following night, so rationalised it a bit. If i were to do this again, I would just pick up a buoy and, if asked for money, offer them 10 euros, take it or leave it - the pilot book says it should be free, but I now tend to take some of what Rod Heikell says with a pinch of salt, helpful though his books are.

Anyway, whilst not the most beautiful place in the world, Vulcano was an experience that was worth having.... I dont know if it was the smoking Volcano, or the busy ferry terminal with some nice bars overlooking the harbour, or the lovely restaurant on the road between the main town and the beach at Poniente, (cant remember the name, but it is on the left out of town, and has a blue sign), or the strange anchorage where people came and went, dropping their anchors in 30m or 50m without a care in the world.

Alternatively, you could forego the Aeolians, and head through the straits of Messina to Taormina, Naxos and Riposto. You would be right under Mount Etna, so could do the tour/s, and Taormina is not to be missed. Anchor in the big bay, either off Naxos, or under Taormina near the beach bar - 1 oe 2 euros on the bus to taormina, and 65 euros for an Etna tour, (inc. bus, cable car, and jeep to the top), (DONT book anything through Yacht Services at Riposto Marina!!!).

There are marinas at Naxos and Riposto... at Riposto, you get a lot of help mooring stern to from the amazing ormegiatorre in their ribs.

I havent helped with the stern to mooring question, but hope some of the up to date info has helped.

Richard

 

[billskip]

Hi Richard
stern to moring can be quite worring, and all the things that can go wrong will, even for the experianced.

That said ,dont worry you can allways go round again.

On your first day out in open water reverse the boat a couple of times to see how she responds

My way I found easyist is to get the boat going backwards well in advance of your parking place rather than stop in a position and then select reverse.

When you see your place to park, judge the position you want to drop the hook, reverse the boat in a circle to get moving and then straignten up, going over your intended point of dropping the hook, drop the hook and let out the cable as fast as it will go. (MAKE SURE YOUR CABLE IS SECURELY ATTACHED TO THE BOAT! I have seen many chains dissapear over the bow roller to the supprise of the anchor crew!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif) and slowly go straight back into your spot.When you are about half your boat length away from the quay stop the anchor and when about two mtrs away do a short burst of fwd to stop the boat a AT ALL TIMES Keep your speed as slow as possible so you just have enough for stearing.also hang a fender over the stern just in case .

Have all mooring lines ready well in advance, If its a small harbour or restricted for space, go out again and reverse into the harbour.

One important thing IMHO is if you call an order to the bow the crew must reply otherwise you dont know if they heard you. For example a guy backing his boat in was perfect and he called "stop the anchor" to swmbo at which point she dropped the anchor, had to go out and do it all again /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Have a good holiday

 

[Richard10002]

Just another thought - I see you are fairly new to sailing, and perhaps dont have a sailing boat, but you have a fair bit of experience in a rib.

If I were you, so as not to make major cock ups, or damage the boat, or frighten SWMBO, I would probably get a few days of instruction, (both of you), dedicated to berthing stern to, with both lazy lines and anchor - a good instructor will be able to replicate these scenarios, even if there arent any marinas that use these systems.

Also include some instruction on anchoring... in particular, the technique for getting it dug in, and being confident that it is truly dug in ... not sure how warm the water is in the UK, but there is nothing quite like swimming over your anchor after you have dug it in, and seeing it dug in... or even, like us in Vulcano, actually watching your anchor dig in with someone else doing it, (you could wear a 5mm or 7mm wetsuit).

It's all very well being given detailed instructions here, (which are really helpful), but they will disappear from your brain in the heat of the moment. At least if you have practised the manoeuvre 40 times or so over a couple of days, (anchoring and stern to berthing), you will have some real life memories to work with.

 

[CPD]

Its very satisfying when it works, and (can be) very embarrasibng when it doesnt. i found the key to be understanding how she goes in reverse and then having a very clear agreement as to who does what when and where (as with all sailing matters !) well before hand. Not something I would want to try single handed, but very straightforward 2 handed. Good luck with it !

 

[rwilson]

Wow, thank you everyone for your information. Tips like these dont often appear in the pilot books! I will take on board the need to do practice moorings, so the afternoon of day 1 will be earmarked for that. My other half has sailing experience albeit a tad rusty, but she will be fine once we get going.
I get the impression that winds can blow up very quickly. Would any of you recommend a good weather forcast to religiously listen too. I have details in my pilot, but recomendations are always good. I must add that our grasp of Italian only extends to pizza and pasta, but the first mates french is good.
It looks like we should have a lot of fun sailing those waters, but i'll remember to keep a watchful eye on things as usual.

regards richard

 

[KeithH]

some additional thoughts on "bow to" mooring.

I think that it is worth practising on the anchor drop technique before trying it for real - if you have an anchor windlass. I have met two types - one type you run the windlass motor in reverse (make sure that down means down, it didnt in one boat-'down' was wired up for 'up') and the other needed you to slacken off the clutch to disengage the motor and so drop the anchor. Good communication between the bowman and the helm was already mentioned, and that is key to avoiding a misunderstanding.

Another thing to beware of is rocks near the foot of the quay. Found that in a couple of harbours in Greece, when bows to is safer, and avoids risking damage to the rudder. But it does mean that the kedge anchor needs to be rigged well in advance.

 

[alan]

In Italy VHF Channel 68 gives a continuous weather forecast first in Italian then in English updated at 06:00, 12:00, 18:00 and 00:00 GMT. They give the 24 hour forecast for all the Italian waters (and other parts of the Med) then a three day forecast divided into 12 hour chunks. I have found this to be very useful, although they do tend to be a bit conservative (but so do I !!!!).

Also if you have access to the net there is mediterraneanweather.com, and windfinder.com which I have also found to be reasonably accurate.

Alan. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[jimbaerselman]

Check my website for places to visit/places to avoid. Go to the 'sailing' tab, on the chart, click Sicily.

Personally, I don't remember any places in the Aeolians where it was suitable to moor stern to - except Lipari marina, and we couldn't get into that 'cos it was full. Still, in the Med it is an essential skill.

Anchorages around the Aeolians are all exposed to one or another direction. Also, winds up to F4 come and go from varying directions with scant regard to forecasts, so you need always to be prepared to up anchor and move. Great islands to visit in settled weather though.

In unsettled weather (significant cloud around, thunderstorms visible) I'd treat the area with great care, only going ashore from an anchorage If I'd got two anchors down, well dug in, so that the boat could cope with changes in the wind direction.

 

[Brian_B]

The secrets are preparation and speed.

Make sure your fenders are at the right height if going in next to another boat
Set up stern lines on both sides, and make sure they are attached to the boat and long enough.
The lines should lead outside the pushpit to the sugarscoop or swimstep and be neatly coiled.
Bystanders will (almost) always take lines and help.
Get the anchor hanging over the front ready to drop.

Start reversing from a good distance out. Prop wash should not be a problem as the Dufour will probably have a saildrive.
Remember, reverse at the speed you want to hit the quay! A little faster in a crosswind.
When your stern is about a 2 and a half boat lengths from the key, drop the anchor and all the chain.
The anchor man can then walk calmly to the stern, pick up the lines and pass them to people on the quay when close enough.
The helmsman should be able to stop the boat within a couple of feet.
If nobody's about to help, the anchor man just hops ashore and makes the lines fast.
When the shore lines are made fast, walk back to the front and take up on the anchor chain.
This may be best done hand over hand as it gives a good idea of how hard the boat is being kept off the quay.

Everyone gets this wrong at some point. Stay calm and what ever you do, don't shout.
This just draws attention.

 

[MASH]

I try to avoid it if possible. in a harbour I wouldn't consider it without an anchor crew who had done it several times in an uncrowded anchorage and knew the drill, and pitfalls.

A crosswind of any strength at all can make accurate positioning difficult or worse (especially achieving the accurate right angle to the quay to avoid dropping over neighbours' ground-tackle).

In many anchorages people seem to do it just because everyone else does - even when it is possible to swing to an anchor. Use your judgement.

I am always concerned that the wind might become fresh at right angles to the boat, (ie parallel to shore) thus trying to pull the anchor sideways, which most of 'em don't like. Escaping from an anchorage when moored fore and aft can be tricky in a crosswind, esp if strong, unexpected and at night...So double the stern line thru a becket tied to a rock, or pass it around a tree and back to the boat. That way you can slip from the boat. At least you don't lose your entire stern line...or get tempted to go swimming ashore in a rising gale at night with a dragging anchor to untie that expensive stern line. Don't laugh, it happens!

If the stern line is long enough attach it first to the bow, then lead it to the stern cleat outside everything, attach it again there and lead it ashore and secure. (or double it as above).
If the side windage becomes too much for the anchor just uncleat at the stern leaving the boat to weathercock into wind parallel to shore held by a bow anchor and, now, a bow line to shore.

The antics of charter boats trying to come stern to in crowded, windy Simi makes one realise just how tricky this can be. Lose way astern and you'll drift helplessly down on the neighbouring boat. Pull the anchor chain tight 2m too far out and ditto. Misjudge distance for anchor drop (easily done) and the chain snubs you up just short. Drop over someone elses chain and you've got a nasty snarl up to clear, probably at 0400 when he wants to leave, or its Eu300 for a diver to sort the tangle. I could go on.

It can be done tidily and seamanlike, make a public horlicks of it in a town quay and you'll wish you'd practised more in the anchorage.

Got a Kedge? Go bows to then. Advantages; easier to monitor anchor crew from cockpit, even do it yourself. Boat handles better in ahead. Stern gear is not hazarded by shoaling water/ballasting close to shore. And finally, why would anyone want the entire town to be able to look straight into the cockpit and cabin, and maybe just step in and have your watch and wallet???

Alternative? Ask the nice Mr Heikell to find you a pleasant anchorage and use the dinghy to go ashore.

 

[Gypsy]

Most responses refer to dropping your anchor as you go into the berth (either bow or stern to) but in my experience last year all allowed mooring positions in the Aeolies used lines tailed back to the quay. This is certainly true of Lipari (pontoon berths), Pignataro and Salina. Volcano had a small pontoon mooring area with tailed lines to the south of the main quay but as others have said there are two places to anchor off.

When berthing with tailed lines, the same issue of getting enough speed for steerage whilst not scaring the crew or people on the pontoon (including ormeggiatori sp?) applies but now if going in astern the crew needs to be on the deck with a boat hook as far back as possible whilst dodging the bimini, in order to hook the tailed line which should be being held up by the ormeggiatore. The crew then handles the line hand over hand to the bow (or stern) cleat and makes fast temporarily. In the meantime the helmsperson needs to have tossed one or both stern lines onto the quay for the ormeggiatore to either cleat or to pass through a ring and return to the boat for final adjustment. When the stern lines are set you go forward to tighten up the bow line. The line adjustment may need to be an iterative process depending on the wind, the helpers and your own experience.

It is a nerve wracking experience and side winds are always on the rise when reversing into a tight spot! If you are apprehensive, try doing it bows to for a couple of times and watch others. This is subject to you and the crew being able to make the stretch to board from the bow.

There are two types in a marina or anchorage - the entertainers and the entertainees - you start off as the latter and after a few embarrassments you can become the former.

We loved the Aeolies and visited there 3 times in 5 years. Don't miss the walk to the rim of the volcano on Isola Volcano.
Ray

 

[Gypsy]

Just re-read the last part of my post as I wanted to add something...I see I have my formers and latters mixed up. Understandable really when looking from Sydney! Sorry.

But another point about Lipari. There are a few pontoon concessions near to the harbour and close to the town. They have no facilities and in August they charge like pirates but they do fulfill a need. If you use one, choose a berth at the sea end of the pontoon so that you lay at 90deg to the shore, not parallel, as the ferries and hydrofoils are forever charging in and out and when you are side on to the wash it is very uncomfortable for sleep or socialising.
Ray

 

[rwilson]

thank you all for your help. I have printed off the thread and will take it with me for reference purposes. I will let you know how I got on later in september.

regards richard