Spec me a North Brittany cruise

[Babylon]

I'm looking for a bit of broad-brush advice on how to go about cruising the North Brittany coast, starting from the Solent and going via the CI's. Will likely be single-handed most of the time (plus parenting a young teenager for some of it) and boat is a 27ft long-keeler drawing 4ft.

Had a super few weeks in 2016 in the CI's (first time over there, did lots of anchoring, really liked Alderney Guernsey, Sark, Herm, not that keen on Jersey) and did my first single-handed crossing of the Channel on the return, but weather in 2017 and partner's illness in 2018 resulted in very little time on the water.

I've been advised to head as far west as I'd like (presumably from St PP), then work the rising tides eastwards before back up to the CI's (or even Cherbourg) and back to UK.

I like slow-ish cruising, as in spending a day or several in mainly quieter, traditional harbours or anchorages, walking, visiting interesting places ashore, etc.

So two essential questions:

(1) Where should I practically head for as my first stop (after a brief sojourn in Alderney then Guernsey), given that I'll be on my own and don't want too long a passage and too tricky an entry or at night?

(2) What are the must-visit places as I work my way along the coast?

Thanks
Jon

 

[doug748]

.......

I've been advised to head as far west as I'd like (presumably from St PP), then work the rising tides eastwards before back up to the CI's (or even Cherbourg) and back to UK.

I like slow-ish cruising, as in spending a day or several in mainly quieter, traditional harbours or anchorages, walking, visiting interesting places ashore, etc.

So two essential questions:

(1) Where should I practically head for as my first stop (after a brief sojourn in Alderney then Guernsey), given that I'll be on my own and don't want too long a passage and too tricky an entry or at night?

(2) What are the must-visit places as I work my way along the coast?

Thanks
Jon

I wouldn't head west in one lump because you will be butting into a lot of foul tide (very foul if you go close to the coast). Nor would I worry about rising or falling tides, if you are willing to anchor or moor up, no problem
Have a look at the charts on this very useful site, here:

http://montymariner.co.uk/tide-stream-charts/733-2/

Montymariner will, no doubt, be along in a bit to give you his view.

Maybe, cross to Lezardrieux or Treguier first (both are all tide marinas or you can anchor in the rivers or pick up a mooring) and then work your way along to the west in 15 - 20 mile day sails, the tide will scoot you along. Both of the above options are not as easy as, say, the Dart or Hamble so do your homework.

Some of the places you miss on the way out, can then be visited on your way back. I would go no further than Ile Batz , pushing on is not worth the effort if time is limited.
There is enough of interest on this coast to keep you coming back for 10 years esp if you cop good weather.

The Bay of St Malo from Pampol east is another grand option but I would hoard that for another day.

 

[ashtead]

You probably travel to slowly to reach St Malo in a day hop if you don't fancy jersey but once inside the lock it's now quite peaceful in marina and plenty of interesting places to visit in locality. Only downside is facilities are basic ashore. We loved being down river at lezardrieux and visited local chateau etc but again poor facilities and cramped berths. Simplest place might be St cast ? We have only visited Pampol by road but didn't fancy look of cramped berthing but if you like Yarmouth on a bank holiday weekend it's fine.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

I would go West along the English coast as quick as you can, cross from Plymouth or Falmouth You could choose L'Aberwrach or somewhere a little further east as your first port. If you like anchoring then don't miss Ile de Batz and the Ile Chausey, get your tidal calculations right. Lots of ports along the coast some villages Lezardrieux some big ports Roscoff then the holiday towns St Cast. If you go back via St Malo there is the Rance to visit. I spent a lot of time in a V27 on that coast you should enjoy it. You didn't say how long you have either.

 

[LadyInBed]

You don't say how long you have.
Also important to start trip when it's approach Springs to get a morning run down to Guernsey.

 

[James_Calvert]

Answers to OP

Treguier first stop. Interesting little town and cathedral. Lovely river.

Trebeurden a good final point west. You can anchor off Ile Molene which has a lovely sandy beach if you need to wait to get over the cill.

Deep water anchorages with some moorings on the way west include Port Blanc and Tregastel. On the way back there's Ploumanach, a must visit spot, and Perros Guirec. Both these have cills. Perros port is quite good in its own right but the town is worth the walk as are the beaches beyond.

That's all a great cruise.

Alternatively working the other way there's a good inshore passage between Treguier and Lezardrieux, or you can always go to Lezardrieux direct from St Peter Port. Ile de Brehat in the estuary is a must see. Quaint place, no cars just bicycles. We like picking up a mooring outside La Corderie but other options exist. Upriver is Pontrieux. There's a chateau Roche Jagu to visit on the way. Very picturesque walk up to it. From Pontrieux you can catch a train to Paimpol, another great place, but also on a cruise itinery with the right tides.

From Lezardrieux you have the deep water port of St Quay Portrieux past Paimpol. Good passage stop on the way to St Malo. St Cast also good, great beach a walk away. Dahouet is interesting, but has a cill. St Malo itself is a destination in its own right. But you'd need go stop off at Jersey on the way back. Also check out Iles Chausey and Grandcamps if feasible.

 

[James_Calvert]

Sorry, I meant Granville not Grandcamps...

 

[westhinder]

Some good suggestions here already: Lezardrieux, Tréguier, Ile de Brehat, L’Aberwrac’h if you have the time, Iles Chausey, St Malo...
A word of warning as you say you will be singlehanding: both Tréguier and Lezardrieux have fierce tides sluicing through the pontoons and can be tricky. Call the harbourmaster and they will come out to the pontoon to assist you.

 

[LadyInBed]

Here you go, about 460nM round trip. My preference is to get xChannel ASAP, then I feel like I'm on holiday. Furthest point Morlaix but you could cut that bit out to shorten the passage to Paimpol from St PP.

 

[LadyInBed]

Have a look at the charts on this very useful site, here:

http://montymariner.co.uk/tide-stream-charts/733-2/

Montymariner will, no doubt, be along in a bit to give you his view.

Also put a copy of N Brittany Streams on your phone / tablet / PC
My view is even a month isn't enough !

PS don't forget the CI's and Alderney Streams

 

[harry potter]

Also put a copy of N Brittany Streams on your phone / tablet / PC
My view is even a month isn't enough !

PS don't forget the CI's and Alderney Streams

If the weather is a bit iffy you won't be disappointed spending a few days in St. Malo and up through the EDF hydroelectric lock into the Rance. Plouër sur Rance is welcoming and cheap, and St Malo has navigation marks to die for. Jersey, just use it as a tide stop, if you work the tides (high) right it is a short and stimulating ride straight through the Minquiers to St. Malo.

 

[Babylon]

Thanks so much folks - a lot of key pointers and suggestions.

Monty, your tidal-stream resources in particular are excellent: I'll print out the ones I don't already have on A4 to laminate into a slim file for use onboard (wax crayon me), as well as on my phone and tablet.

In terms of time I've got four weeks, maybe up to six, between mid-July and early Sept, but:

(i) This will also involve either one or two round-trip journeys by plane or ferry to collect my son from the ex and return him after a fortnight. (Complete nightmare, fixed schedule of alternating slots each summer, zero flexibility from a total take-and-no-give person, etc.) If I started a bit later then he'd come with me from the start (he wants to do his first Channel crossing), but actual departure date will be determined by the big weather picture at the time rather than individual wishes. Wherever I leave the boat for a bit, it'll be an additional adventure travelling by public transport to an airport or ferry terminal - all part of the fun!

(ii) I'm a single-hander in a relatively slow boat who likes his sleep and enjoys a steady pace of things rather than rushing to collect trophies. Although we can do a good 6kts under both sail and motor or a combination of both, I plan all passages at 5kts.

My initial thoughts: I don't fancy working my way west along the English coast first, so will cross from Yarmouth or Studland to Alderney. From St PP, at which point I'll probably have collected the lad, the shortest passage for us will be to Lezardrieux/Treguier with not too hairy an entry if planned and timed properly. Can work west from there in comparatively short passages, enjoying ourselves as we go. Trebeurden seems easily achievable as a westerly limit, but Ile de Batz also, which being in the locality of Roscoff gives a ferry option back with the lad. Then, depending on the weather situation and time left, I can head back to Lez/Treg, St PP etc, or stretch things east down towards St Malo and back up via Iles Chausey and Jersey, possibly then Cherbourg etc... or leave that for another time.

Cheers

 

[Robin]

Perros Guirec is nice too, watch tide heights not to get stuck inside for 2-3 days on neaps, *little 'port' anchorage whose name escapes me between Perros and Treguier is a pleasant stopover though not much shore life othrr than moules in shoreside hotel bar, but it is free. also anchorage off Sept Isles and a trip over the lighthouse I assume still open to visitors.


*PORT BLANC (got it finally)

 

[doug748]

," but Ile de Batz also, which being in the locality of Roscoff gives a ferry option back with the lad. "


The marina at Roscoff is ideal in this respect, you can walk right onto the ferry from your boat.
If at all possible book in advance on the internet, rocking up to the ferry terminal would be very expensive.

Morlaix would be cheaper and a grand trip up the river but then you have to get to the ferry. Buses are a bit sparse and cabs v dear. The bay of Morlaix is a fine place in settled weather, superb beaches and swimming. Do get the latest edition of Secret Anchorages of Brittany( I am starting to harp on about this - no monetary connection +)) it is v good.

 

[Poey50]

Tried to edit my post above on my mobile and ended up deleting it instead - not for the first time.

It basically said that if you head up to Morlaix along the river, the buoyage runs out for a while near the town and the channel is then marked by transits on the bank which are not mentioned in Reeds or Pilots but are shown on the charts.

 

[LadyInBed]

*PORT BLANC (got it finally)

Port Blanc is one of the ports i head for from Guernsey as it has 24hr access, the other is Primel, a small fishing port just across the bay from Roscoff also with 24hr access and neither seem to want to come and take money from you!

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Thanks so much folks - a lot of key pointers and suggestions.

Monty, your tidal-stream resources in particular are excellent: I'll print out the ones I don't already have on A4 to laminate into a slim file for use onboard (wax crayon me), as well as on my phone and tablet.

In terms of time I've got four weeks, maybe up to six, between mid-July and early Sept, but:

(i) This will also involve either one or two round-trip journeys by plane or ferry to collect my son from the ex and return him after a fortnight. (Complete nightmare, fixed schedule of alternating slots each summer, zero flexibility from a total take-and-no-give person, etc.) If I started a bit later then he'd come with me from the start (he wants to do his first Channel crossing), but actual departure date will be determined by the big weather picture at the time rather than individual wishes. Wherever I leave the boat for a bit, it'll be an additional adventure travelling by public transport to an airport or ferry terminal - all part of the fun!

(ii) I'm a single-hander in a relatively slow boat who likes his sleep and enjoys a steady pace of things rather than rushing to collect trophies. Although we can do a good 6kts under both sail and motor or a combination of both, I plan all passages at 5kts.

My initial thoughts: I don't fancy working my way west along the English coast first, so will cross from Yarmouth or Studland to Alderney. From St PP, at which point I'll probably have collected the lad, the shortest passage for us will be to Lezardrieux/Treguier with not too hairy an entry if planned and timed properly. Can work west from there in comparatively short passages, enjoying ourselves as we go. Trebeurden seems easily achievable as a westerly limit, but Ile de Batz also, which being in the locality of Roscoff gives a ferry option back with the lad. Then, depending on the weather situation and time left, I can head back to Lez/Treg, St PP etc, or stretch things east down towards St Malo and back up via Iles Chausey and Jersey, possibly then Cherbourg etc... or leave that for another time.

Cheers

All I can say is you will find it easier to get west on the UK side, cross and then leisurely make your way home eastwards as you have 6 weeks I would spend 3 days getting to Plymouth or further then cross.

 

[Robin]

All I can say is you will find it easier to get west on the UK side, cross and then leisurely make your way home eastwards as you have 6 weeks I would spend 3 days getting to Plymouth or further then cross.

+1 crossing from Dartmouth is easy, L'Aberwrac'h a decent target too thence head east along stopping where chosen. We could do L'aberwrach' to Perros, or port blanc or Treguier on a tide by taking malouine shortcut out of river on inshore eddy east, Give Isle de Batz a little hitch north to avoid overfalls inshore. SOGs can be nicely impressive along north coast.

PS.

There used to be a few white waiting buoys on dog leg into Perros to wait on. W e often arrived latish and overnighted on one before goin 'in' on first morning tide, saved a night's fee too. tide runs fast over these and outer ones had enough water at LWS for our 7ft draught.

 

[doug748]

Port Blanc is one of the ports i head for from Guernsey as it has 24hr access, the other is Primel, a small fishing port just across the bay from Roscoff also with 24hr access and neither seem to want to come and take money from you!

Primel has been on my to-do list for some time. Did you pick up a mooring or anchor? Is there plenty of water?

 

[Babylon]

Thanks Fr and Robin.

Devon to the western part of North Brittany is also an option, and one which makes the whole thing more of a circular cruise than an inverted 'T' route. But as its half as much distance again than the Needles to CI crossing, I'd prefer to have a mate with me for that.

I've certainly now got a much better overview of the various options than I did before starting this thread.