Solar

You are correct, but why do you want to split the current if you only have 3 x 180 AH house batteries?

Just wire them together as one bank plus an engine battery. You need to keep it simple, one house bank with the MPPT connected to it.

Pete
 
Pete7 said:
You are correct, but why do you want to split the current if you only have 3 x 180 AH house batteries?

Just wire them together as one bank plus an engine battery. You need to keep it simple, one house bank with the MPPT connected to it.

Pete
Click to expand...

The system I have inherited is 3x180ah batteries in total.Two for house and one for the starter .The starter one also run the anchor windless and autopilot, so this one need to be kept fully charged when sailing to be able to start the engine .
 
So connect the solar charger to the house bank of 2 x 180AH batteries and use a VSR to bring the engine start battery into the circuit when the voltage exceeds 12.8v. The important bit is to put the solar onto the house bank because these batteries could be heavily discharged whilst the engine battery will only need a little topping up.

Something like this is popular, especially if you have old rotary switches. I had to change mine after a worn rotary switch discharged the house bank because it didn't disconnect properly. That was 7 years ago and I am just thinking about changing the batteries this winter.

https://www.furneauxriddall.com/aca...tery-Banks-BEP_716_SQ_140A_DVSR.html#SID=1012
 
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rtboss1 said:
The system I have inherited is 3x180ah batteries in total.Two for house and one for the starter .The starter one also run the anchor windless and autopilot, so this one need to be kept fully charged when sailing to be able to start the engine .
Click to expand...
I would concider rewirng the AP to the house batteries, only use the windlass with the engine running will help to put some Charge back in .
I got a MPPT which my 150x2 panels are wired into and then from there to both my house batteries 5x105 and my started Battery, and it works fine .
 
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##Sorry if I sounded a little harsh, I have been going through a bad time
I lost a passport all bank cards and a beautiful girlfriend in Greece over a two week period. The friend was not connected to the cards I lost them after I lost her.

Would someone suggest a good MPPT controller that would suit the setup described above. as I am going to lose three 180ah Varter Batteries
 
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rtboss1 said:
##Sorry if I sounded a little harsh, I have been going through a bad time
I lost a passport all bank cards and a beautiful girlfriend in Greece over a two week period. The friend was not connected to the cards I lost them after I lost her.

Would someone suggest a good MPPT controller that would suit the setup described above. as I am going to lose three 180ah Varter Batteries
Click to expand...

Fit a Victron MPPT controller, connected to the house bank.

Fit a Victron Cyrix VSR

Move the auto pilot to the house bank.

Sorry to hear of you other bad luck.
 
Some longer term thoughts. If you put the auto pilot on the house bank as suggested and assuming you start the engine before using the anchor windlass, then you don't need 180AH battery to start the engine, well unless you have a 18 wheeler. Leave the battery alone for now because its fitted, but when its due for replacement then you can save some money and weight by choosing something less than half the size. Be easier to fit too, those 180AH batteries are not light to lift and fit.
 
Hi
I have bought a Victron MPPT Smart Solar charge controller 100 l 20.
Its marked Batt .PV ..LOAD I presume batt is as said .Is load the solar panel ? And what does PV do. As there s no wiring diagram. There also a little black plastic bridge on the lower left side whats its purpose.
 
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rtboss1 said:
Hi
I have bought a Victron MPPT Smart Solar charge controller 100 l 20.
Its marked Batt .PV ..LOAD I presume batt is as said .Is load the solar panel ? And what does PV do. As there s no wiring diagram. There also a little black plastic bridge on the lower left side whats its purpose.
Click to expand...

Batt = Battery
PV = Solar panels
Forget the load terminals.

In the lower left corner you will have a blade fuse and a VE.Direct port.
 
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A solid blue light means the controller is in bulk, which is normal.

When (or if) the batteries become more charged the LED will change to yellow (the absorption phase) and then to green (the float phase).
If the settings are correct when the light changes to green the batteries will be at, or reasonably close, to 100% SOC.

Various fault states (or an equalisation phase) are indicated by the lights blinking so if you see blinking lights look up the manual to determine which fault condition is present.
 
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