Skipper 14 as cruising dinghy.

RydalWater

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I have very recently laid trembling hands on a Skipper 14 as a project, (No pictures yet but will try to add some later) with a view to creating the best poor man's cruiser out of her that is humanly possible.

As those of you whom, like myself, are well past their sell by date may know the boat was originally a Peter Milne design which has in the past attracted some not wholly undeserved criticism re both its construction and rig.

The rig could as far as I am presently able to ascertain came originally as a Gunter setup though a later Bermudan option was offered. The Gunter rig was available in both conventional and unstayed versions. While I am not able to comment on the Bermudan rig the Gunter was and is as I found a really horrible bodge and any adverse comments hurled at it are almost certainly fully justified.

I could go on for pages concerning this but will confine myself to mentioning that the mast, stayed or otherwise, was originally deck mounted but stepped right down to the keel, acceptable but unnecessarily awkward on launch and recovery I'd have thought. The real horror story for me came in with the gaff to on which the mainsail was sleeved. The mere thought of going to sea with a rig I couldn't drag down in a hurry brings me out in a sweat as I have unpleasant memories of a Bobbin from years back.

Initially I am going to re rig her with a Mirror main and a slightly over sized jib which came with the boat but ultimately I plan to try her as a yawl.

The original sail area broke down to 83 sq ft of which 70.5 were provided by the main while the figures for the Mirror are 50 sq ft for the main and another 20 for the jib. Working on the principle, "Low & Long" I expect to wind up with a yawl setting some 90 odd sq ft.

This may sound like an extreme increase in area with which to saddle a boat primarily intended for cruising but my thought is that it should only be the work of a second or so to drop the main and thus rid her of 50 sq ft at a moments notice thus leaving her with a perfectly balanced rig too small to lead her into trouble. Even should I be a trifle slow the low aspect ratio of the rig should keep me safe.

Necessary modifications to the hull include a bridge like construction aft stretching from beam to beam just forward of the after locker moulding on which will be stepped the mizzen with the tiller projecting through below it.

The step for the main will require modification anyway as a previous user managed to break a wooden mast in the mount which subsequently rotted away completely but which I am unable to remove. The famous, "Plan A" in this case is to fiberglass a small step into the upper portion of the original in line with and conforming dimensionally to the usual Mirror step. Below this will be an insert passing as much as possible of the downward thrust to the original.

I plan to add a transverse member immediately abaft of the mast step both above and below deck level to serve the common purposes of spreading the mast load and serving as a foot for my proposed cockpit tent thus simplifying the task of keeping dry overnight.

As regards the hull itself I was pleasantly surprised to find it far more robust than earlier comments here had suggested though it was immediately plain that some additional inspection and access hatches would need to be fitted as I have a personal anathema concerning boats that prevent me from gaining access to every inch of her when required.

While any comments and suggestions are entirely welcome, and of course it is in hope of attracting some helpful responses that I am about to post this, do recall that I am not setting out to build a performance boat nor one to cross the Atlantic just a boat capable of keeping me alive and getting me form A to B safely and in reasonable comfort in exchange for a modicum of seamanship.
 
I sailed a Skipper just the once many years ago and with the gunter rig. The main impression was that the design of the forward section was awful, particularly the deep uncovered recess forward ahead of the mast; in anything of a chop this would be in obvious danger of filling and unbalancing the boat, which for your proposed cruising idea would be one of the first items I'd revise by the fitting of a shaped lid tensioned by shock cords to keep water out.

'Lakesailor' of these fora has owned and repaired one of these I seem to recall ; a couple of other owners here had a 'rally' last year.

Peter Milne had also designed the Fireball and the Stag28 yacht, also the 'Mailboat', a polystyrene abortion, for the Daily Mail in the 60's which did his reputation no good.
He also worked with Ian Proctor the prolific designer of MerlinRocket,National 12, Wayfarer etc etc.

ianat182
 
The Mailboat was actually quite good but only if assessed in comparison to the even worse abortion released in the name of the Daily Express, I had one BTW so know all too well that to which I refer.

Your point re the forward well is a good one and will be in my mod list although I am less concerned with unbalancing the boat than with flooding her via the drain.
 
Sorry forgot to note that otherwise the design of the forward section strikes me as being reasonably good with masses of built in buoyancy some of which I plan to utilise for additional stowage of light items.
 
I would suggest that the modifications you plan to make need to be well bonded into the original structure.
Although the quite complex deck mouldings lend quite a bit of strength to the structure the actual lay-up is quite light for such a heavy boat.

I agree that the rig is not the most adaptable. Mine was the bermudan with a luff pocket on the main, but loose-footed so you could release the clew and effectively negate the main.
A Mirror ( or Heron) rig would probably adapt quite well as long as your chainplates were well secured.

I don't know what sail you would use for your mizzen. As your rudder is transom hung you are going to struggle to make it into a yawl. Why not just through bolt a step to the aft bulkhead (cockpit to rear locker) and play about with that arrangement? Don't know how you will arrange the tiller around the mast though. Sounds a bit complex and unnecessary.
 
My present thinking is to bond a bearer on either beam additionally secured by through bolting using s/s studs. These would carry a transverse beam over the tiller which would in turn support the mizzen.

The sail does present a slight problem but if necessary a re-cut spare jib might be a possibility alternatively I might cut and sow a completely new sail specifically for the job.

The reasoning behind the concept is straightforward actually and basically revolves around two thoughts. One, I just don't like the idea of permanently losing 20 sq ft of canvas and two I want to be able to reduce my sail plan quickly and easily by a degree far in advance of that I might obtain by reefing which in any case would be a far longer procedure.

I was once caught by a squall off Harwich while single handing which BTW I'd seen coming and was still busily rolling in my main when it hit very nearly flipping me clean off the boat. Meanwhile a yawl which was also in the area had dropped her main and carried on regardless which converted me to the principle of using two sticks.

Since I can neither afford nor justify the expense of a Drascombe, just wish I could though, modifying the Skipper through the winter seems a reasonable alternative.

It would be my intention to complete any necessary reinforcing of the structure, which I completely agree will be necessary, before the weather closes in and the temperature drops.

As to Richmond Marine I suspect Larry is being a little harsh there as the boat was molded down to both a target price and weight which did not leave much leeway for building in quality. In other words you got what you paid for.

As part of what will essentially be a re build and re design carried out on the fly I intend to fit inspection hatches to enable me to reinforce the lay up in strategic area's.
 
While I am not able to comment on the Bermudan rig the Gunter was and is as I found a really horrible bodge and any adverse comments hurled at it are almost certainly fully justified ... The real horror story for me came in with the gaff to on which the mainsail was sleeved. The mere thought of going to sea with a rig I couldn't drag down in a hurry brings me out in a sweat as I have unpleasant memories of a Bobbin from years back.
A bit surprised by this. I kept a Skipper on a river (the Itchen) where I regularly had to "shoot" three bridges to get to the sea. A plus of this design was the speed with which the sail could be lowered and re-raised, which meant I could often get under against the wind without needing to row.
 
I'm totally in favour of experimenting and modifying boats. The use you put a boat to may not be the same as the designer intended and customising is the way to make it fit you.
I would be wary of glassing the mods in place initially. I have had projects where the fine tuning involved moving stuff about a bit to get the proper balance etc. Why not just Sikaflex and bolt initially. Then try it to see if it's right.

I'm sure you will be making a ketch rig. A yawl has the mizzen aft of the rudder shaft (rudder post), or in your case, pintles.

......................................................

Just looked at my pics from doing up my Skipper and see that the bulkhead is too far forwards for the mizzen mast step. Like you say. Some kind of pad where the u-bolts are in my pic, with a beam across. I certainly wouldn't glass it on initially though. I would make ply frames beneath the deck to spread the load down to the keel and hull though.

Skipper5.jpg


Skipper6.jpg
 
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I would suggest that the modifications you plan to make need to be well bonded into the original structure.
Although the quite complex deck mouldings lend quite a bit of strength to the structure the actual lay-up is quite light for such a heavy boat.

As Lakey says this is likely to be your biggest challenge.

I too am surprised at your words regarding the gunter rig. I sailed one as a child for several years and found the rig simple and functional. The gaff may well be sleeved, but lowering the sail is simply a matter of lowering the gaff. Once the sail is on the gaff you may leave it there forever if you so desire. Because the mast is shorter than the bermuden it is probably slightly lighter, and has a lower c of g. I forget if I ever put the mast up afloat rather than at the beach edge, but raising/lowering the main we did several times afloat with no trouble. The sail is then easily removed from the mast, allowing quick removal of the mast if necessary.
 
The Skipper 14 is no ball of fire. It has a modest sail area - which in the gunter version is very easy to shorten sail.

As for making it into a 14 ketch?:confused: why? What harm has it ever done you? A ketch of that length creates far more problems than it would ever solve - far too many bits of string, dodgy supports and every probablity of more weather helm than you can cope with.

This is a heavy somewhat sluggish boat which does not need to be burdened by more 'stuff'.
 
Andrew, My point regarding this one, & admittedly I should have been a deal clearer, was not that the original unmodified Skipper Gunter was any harder to drop than say a Mirror's but virtually incapable of being furled & certainly not quickly. It would also be a virtual impossibility to remove the sail in the event of a knock down.

In a conventional Gunter rig it is possible, even if not commonly done, to fit multiple attachment points to the yard to allow the entire rig, spars and all, to be reduced.

In a more normal usage the Skippers all metal and sleeved rig would be fair enough perhaps but not I feel for a boat where cruising is envisaged.
 
Lakesailor: I love your boat & am almost horror struck at the effort you have obviously put in to achieve that finish. I seriously doubt that mine will turn out to be half as smart.

Your tip re construction is well based and will be adopted however I believe that technically that which I propose is a yawl rig rather than a ketch, placement notwithstanding. The defining factor being the size and intended purpose.

Pye, see earlier response to somebody making a similar point & again apologies for not making my meaning clearer originally.

In a ketch surely the mizzen is normally not too far below the main in area and is mostly, if not completely, contained in the length of the vessel. Mine on the other hand is intended to be mounted as far aft as is practicable, be of limited area and mainly there to balance the boat when the main is lowered.
 
Pete54, Yawl is I maintain the correct term and I have no desire to make the boat into a ketch.

You are correct of course in your remark regarding the modest sail area which incidentally was the starting point of the whole exercise.

In my case I had the alternatives of making a complete set of new spars, (Not completely correct as it looks like I have found a boom) or of re rigging using an old but serviceable Mirror set of spars and sails.

The latter option would reduce the sail area by just over 20 sq ft, (Roughly 25%) and quite possibly move the c of e of the rig forward into the bargain.

My personal requirements are largely influenced by my physical condition, I am 69, a survivor of surgery for lung cancer which has left my right arm weakened and my shoulder painful, (Cut nerves) and am afflicted with arthritis particularly in the back and knees.

The whole object was then to produce a vessel which carries its sail plan low, would enable me to get away with being terminally slow and need a minimum of effort on my part.

I do not normally build "Dodgy" supports and am both an experienced fitter and engineer capable I anticipate of designing a balanced rig and will have the option of adjusting the final used length of my bowsprit to ensure that excess weather helm is not developed.

The "Extra bits of string" you mention amount in practical terms to an extra sheet and will not I feel present a problem in normal usage.
 
My son and I have sailed our Skipper 14 alone and together for years. The gunter rig is fine and we can lower the mainsail in no time. You can reef the main by wrapping it round the boom. We do have stays on the mast. The boat is quick enough as rigged, if the sails are decent.

I would not want to make any significant modification to my boat. In my view they are underrated and they are certainly very stable. You would have to make a major effort to capsie the boat.
 
Sailed one a few times and found it surprisingly quick, very slippy hull. The build quality is generally awful, they fill with water between the skins, a mizzen is a crazy idea, they are heavy to launch and recover. So all-in-all a classic PBO project! Good luck with it, a photo of the rig will be fun to see.
 
Hi Mr Cramp, Thank you very much for your comment & I am genuinely pleased to hear that your Skipper has given you so much fun.

In all honesty the decision to plan a major modification program was to some extent forced upon me in part due to the lack of genuine Skipper spars, the only one I have being the boom, and lack of knowledge concerning the exact dimensions of the originals including particularly the those of the gaff and its mounting fittings plus the overall length of the mast and its length from deck to masthead. The previous user had managed to leave a fairly ripe wooden mast in the hull which broke on removal prior to my acquiring the boat. The result being that my best endeavors have managed only to provide a few inches in which to seat the mast so even if I had an original mast I’d still need to modify it.

I am forced to acknowledge that in certain respects I somewhat regret the decision to re rig her as her sails are not only decent but particularly in the case of the main virtually brand new in white terylene and she has an acceptable spare as well.

Perhaps either you or one of the other Skipper owners here could measure your spars and even if possible provide a rough sketch of any specific Skipper fittings? If so I’d be both grateful and more than happy to consider going for something approximating to the original rig for trial purposes at least.

This coming weekend I shall be limited to cleaning and restoring the interior of the hull so my options will remain open for a week or so at least.
 
Hi Kipper, As you will know from my response to Mr Cramp second thoughts are beginning to stir, (It's called cold fear).

Others both here and elsewhere have made similar comments re water lodging between the skins and my intention is, regardless of whether I proceed with the larger modifications or no is to put in enough inspection hatches to allow me to repair and fix any leaks that may be present.
 
Inspection hatches won't get you to the leaks. They occur at poor hull/deck joints. Mast step tube and other spots which you have to find.
The only answer I found is to raise the bow about 4 ft and let the water drain to the stern. It can take a while. The bungs visible in the the locker are to the inner moulding, but there is also a lot of water gets between that moulding and the hull which can be seen as a wet line around the bilge in this shot. It's that water which takes an age to drain out.
Really the inspection hatches are really best used to check that the water hasn't reached New Orleans levels.

Skipper09.jpg
 
Hi again Lakesailor, I read your post with interest, (Mixed with some alarm). The boat is presently sitting with her bows up by the distance you recommend and has been for a week now.
I am aware of a potential leak at the mast step which is not presently glassed in, this is planned for attention on Sunday incidentally, but I was reliant on using inspection hatches to gain access to the hull/deck interface to check for and repair as necessary any bad joints and mount any new through deck fittings.
Am I interpreting your comments accurately here as I read them as suggesting that the entire hull is double skinned and not as I’d earlier assumed a conventionally laid up hull with an extensive inner moulding bonded in?
 
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