Simple Dirty Bottom Question

[Roy]

My Sealine f33 is in freshwater and is antifouled with blue stuff which, if scrubbed with a brush while in the water, comes away a bit...! I assume that this is the kind of coating that sheds itself and thus keeps the hull 'cleanish' ??

Anyway, will be lifting boat out for some repairs etc and plan to antifoul it if required. What kind of paint should I go for and do I just paint over what is left of the existing coat or should it all be removed first? Also, how much would I need given the size of boat (10.5 x 3.4 metres) approx.? Because of the freshwater environment, the only fouling is green scum and a few small weedy strands, plus the usual exhaust dirt. I tried to figure this out myself and checked out loads of paints but it all seems very complex and confusing to me.... Hoping for a simple solution from someone. Thanks in advance. Roy

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[Deleted User YDKXO]

Probably, you have a 'self-eroding' antifoul which is designed to erode slowly in order to stop weeds and stuff adhering. It could be Micron CSC but it is inportant you talk to locals about which antifoul works best in your area

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[tcm]

Re: quantities

yep.

the paint people will often insist on you buying "high speed" or otherwise known as "hard antifoul, but this doesn't have the eroding qualities which work fine as lng as you don't use the boat at high speed every day like a ferry might.

for the surface area required on a planing boat, multiply length x beam x 0.9. But of course this varies with how thick you bosh it on

Yep, you can recoat over the top. Once jetwashed, run over the hull with very abrasive sandpaper, minimum 80 grit, to knock off loose stuff and key the next coat.

It dries quickly. Apply extra coats around the waterline, obviously having taped over the waterline. This is where most of the weed grows (in the sunshiney conditions) and where you will want to brush it down a bit.

You might consider changing the colour to black. This looks bloody awful whilst the boat is out of the water, but black is the only colour that you can't see through the water, so the underwater hull bits "disappear" when in the water, resulting in not feeling the need to do as much cleaning....

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[Roy]

Many thanks - understand and will ask at marina. Roy

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[Roy]

Re: quantities

Thanks so much for that and will take your advice. By the way tcm, when the boat is chocked, there are a few points where paint cannot be applied....... do we just ignore them or what? Roy

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[PaulF]

Hello Roy,

You would need an antifoul specifically for freshwater and would suggest a self erroding type. A chandlers near where the boat is used should be able to advise you. I would expect a boat that size to require 2 x 21/2 litre tins. Unfortunately it is expensive stuff and , for sea type antifoul, it costs between £45 and £80 a can! Not sure about freshhwater costs. Does it work? Er, well it dpends on a lot of things including how much the boat is used and water temperature, location etc. Some claim quite effective, others less so. Have fun, its the best job of the season!!!
Paul

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[No1_Moose]

Sorry to go off slightly off topic but does anybody know what Copper Thiocyanate is and what function it performs in a antifoul?

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[Roy]

Brilliant Paul

Didn't think it would be cheap!!?? But I guess its one of the inevitable parts of boating costs....... Actually looking forward to doing the work as I love the feeling of satisfaction from doing most jobs myself - mind you, this could alter. I will let you know. Cheers. Roy

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[tcm]

Re: missing bits

Chocies are to either

1. yes, just ignore them until the boat is back in the slings/crane and at that mopment dob them up and the last dregs. This is what most people do

2. Ask the yard for a "lift and shift" which is when they lift and re-chock the boat, tho this costs extra money. Very few people ask for this. You would do it if applying some very longlasting (or suposedly long lasting, ahem) hull treatment.

Main rule is that once chocked, don't blimmin adjust any of the supports youself, at all. There's a post about moving the supports on PBO: best rule is don't do it. And don't even go under the boat unless there's chock of some sort for it to land on, rather than you.



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[andyball]

think that is the antifouling component when they don't use copper oxide, such as in Trilux or others ok for ali hulls/drives.



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[Roy]

http://www.pmra-arla.gc.ca/english/pdf/intern/antifouling.pdf

Found this on google - it simply states which products contain the stuff... if it helps?? Roy

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[peterandjeanette]

Hi Roy. Long time no post chat!!

One item to bear in mind when you lift out for jet wash - lift the speed log paddle wheel first and place cap over the hole. I didn't do it one year and the speed of the jet wash blew the little thing out of its tiny mind.

P.S. Thanks for "pack". Very useful.

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[Roy]

Re: missing bits

Ta .... No 1 choice seems best for sure!! I notice at our boatyard that most boats are chocked onto beer kegs or such with the usual wedges etc. Don't fancy going below boat in case the brute slipped off and on to me.. I'll ask if they can supply me with some kind of supports that would take the weight in the event of boat slipping off chocks. Sorry if I sound a bit lacking in know how and experience on these matters, but the truth is, I am, and that is one reason why this forum is so valuable. Thanks again. Roy

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[Roy]

Good point Peter --- Got a lecture from sealine bloke when buying boat re removing the log wheel before craning as the strops point is right beside the wheel. Will remember to swap it over - thanks. I don't post much as i don't have a lot to offer the forum although I read most posts and continue to learn a great deal. Did you ever decide to change your boat Peter? I am still at the honeymoon stage with mine - really brilliant although I will move up within the next year or two. All the best. Roy

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[tcm]

Re: er...

the beer barrel and lumps of dodgy wood at either side - they're what i meant by chocks. The main weight is taken directly underneath the boat, and you'll (hopefully) find that this is siting on great big lumps of solid wood, just high enought to kep the props off the ground and no more. The dodgy-looking sticks or beerbarrels and so on at the side only keep the balance. But only a few (or maybe only one) of these are doing anything.

the caution i meant is that when they lift it back in , ask for a "lift and hold" for a little while- 20mins or so like over lunchtime (good idea to ask specifically for this slot whish they will perfectly understand) - whilst they have a break and you finish the missing bits. BUT move a couple of the gurt big lumps of wood to another already painted area uder the boat and reset a couple of chocks either side too - otherwise you are unecc. trusting the slings/hydraulics etc with your life whislt underneath. These "failsafe" bits don't need to bne hammered in hard - just set so if the worst happened the boat would land on them, not you.

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[Roy]

Re: er...

Tcm

Really appreciate your experience on this and thanks for passing it on to me - and others too. It rather shortens the learning curve a bit. Will do as you suggest. Cheers. Roy

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[Wiggo]

Re: er...

If you fancy gaining more practical experinece, Roy, ours is coming out for a couple of weeks from this weekend. You could antifoul her if you like.

<hr width=100% size=1>Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione.

 

[Roy]

Re: er...

You know Graham - I would help you actually as it would be great practice .... A bit too far away though..... and i love your boat!! Might get one eventually but want an f43 too. By the way I like the craney thing on yours - perhaps i will contact you for info when the time comes? Roy

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[Deleted User YDKXO]

Re: quantities

Very surprised that you have'nt reccomended the copper sheathing alternative to traditional antifoul and, just by the way, you happen to have a few spare tiles that you can let him have cheap or did it all fall off between Antibes and Puerto Solente?

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[rickp]

Re: er...

Ah well, if you ever want to practice your anti-fouling skills on an F43....

Rick

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