Simple? 12v electric motor question

[Quandary]

Still struggling with the windlass which will not run unless I whack it and is not at all keen to come out.
Before proceeding further I am hoping to eliminate the power supply and solenoid control box by connecting my 12v jump start pack directly to the two wires going from the control box to the motor.
Should the motor run if it is okay and if so can this do any harm? Switching the leads should reverse the motor?
Obviously If it does not I at least know that the thing has to come out which looks as if it will involve major destruction in the anchor locker, probably cutting up the substantial grp encased ply bridging platform it is bolted to.

 

[PaulRainbow]

No reason not to supply power directly to the motor, the contactor pack is only there for reversing purposes.

If it's a 4 terminal contactor reversing polarity at the motor will change the direction of rotation. If it's a a 3 wire contactor both wires from the contactor to the motor will be +ve (one for up and one for down) and the -ve will go straight to the motor, seems this won't be you, as you say you have 2 wires at the motor.

 

[matthewriches]

If you're having to whack the windlass itself then I wouldn't have thought it would be the contactor pack or controls which presumably are down below and at the helm respectively?

 

[pandos]

My windlass did the same thing a few years ago... I was able to remove a cover above deck, clean the insides with contact cleaner and some wire wool,,, put it back together and hey presto... my view is that if it stops in use it can be broken or burned out... if it simply will not start after a few seasons non use it is more likely corrosion on a contact or switch...

 

[cpedw]

Be prepared for a hefty spark and loud noise as contact is made. Don't let the surprise make you let go of the leads or bring them together.

But is that necessary? The whacking success confirms it's either sticky brushes or a loose connection inside the beast that you haven't yet figured how to remove tidily.

Derek

 

[KellysEye]

>Still struggling with the windlass which will not run unless I whack it and is not at all keen to come out.

Usually means brushes need changing.

 

[RichardS]

I wrote a year or so ago about my 3-connection Quick windlass which stopped working unless I hit it.

I took the cover off the windlass and the end cover off the motor and could see that the brushes were fine. However, the commutator looked very dark due to carbon build-up rather than a nice shiny copper colour. I didn't have any carb/brake cleaner aerosol on board so I used a cotton bud soaked in meths to push up between the brush holders and wipe the couple of strips which were visible, then use a screwdriver to turn the armature a tad and wipe the next two. I repeated this over 30 minutes until I had been right around the commutator. It now starts instantly and runs faster than it ever has before.

I now have a can of aerosol cleaner on board so next time I can give it a squirt whilst blipping the motor and it will be done in a jiffy.

Richard

 

[Quandary]

Thanks, I know I am daft trying this, but the thing has ss studs corroded into the alloy casting, two of which I can't reach. Rationally I think it is more likely a bad contact than a worn brush as until now the windlass has been rarely used.
I am resigned to drilling and sawing it out but even that will not be easy to do as there is no space between the housing and the bulkhead behind it to get at the shelf to cut it. We blame boatbuilders for installing stuff never to come out but this was done when the boat was several years old. I have already got bursitis on one elbow from lying on the foredeck with my head in the lower reaches of the anchor locker.
Of course I could take it to a boatyard and give them a couple of grand which seems to be the minimum charge around here nowadays but I have already overspent this winters budget.

 

[omega2]

Is this a horizontal windlass, i.e sea wolf type, bolted down on the fore deck, if so give the bolts a good soaking with plus gas, then with a good fit spanner they will eventually move, man fitted it so man can unfit. Also a bit of heat may assist. Got the same prob with our vertical job, but got it the end.

 

[RichardS]

Thanks, I know I am daft trying this, but the thing has ss studs corroded into the alloy casting, two of which I can't reach. Rationally I think it is more likely a bad contact than a worn brush as until now the windlass has been rarely used.
I am resigned to drilling and sawing it out but even that will not be easy to do as there is no space between the housing and the bulkhead behind it to get at the shelf to cut it. We blame boatbuilders for installing stuff never to come out but this was done when the boat was several years old. I have already got bursitis on one elbow from lying on the foredeck with my head in the lower reaches of the anchor locker.
Of course I could take it to a boatyard and give them a couple of grand which seems to be the minimum charge around here nowadays but I have already overspent this winters budget.

The cans of carb/brake cleaner usually have a long thin tube which can be inserted through a small space towards the general area of the brushes/commutator. The cleaner sprays out very powerfully so you probably only need to spray in the right general direction if you can just get the cover off and find a way in through a tiny gap.

Can I suggest that you edit out your asterisks as the rules are quite strict.

Richard

 

[Quandary]

Thanks, done, though a few asterisks did not adequately reflect my feelings about the thing.
I can understand the rationale of making the whole thing inside one casting from the point of water resistance but a small panel anywhere might have allowed me to give it a blast without so much destruction. I can touch the rear studs with my fingertips but the nuts are so deep into the bed that I can not get a spanner on them so far. That, combined with the corrosion, I suspect means that I may have to cut the bed away nearby with a hole cutter or similar then start excavating the ply with hand tools.

I still have not tried the jump starter but the dodgy terminal on one of the heavy battery terminals made me hope that if it ran from it then replacing all of the terminal on the supply cables properly crimped might give it a bit more ooomph.

 

[oldgit]

My first thought was to use a massive jump start battery pack to start to find out what the problem was with my reluctant Lofrans windlass circa 1990.
Making contact between the jump pack and the windlass terminals was an interesting and exciting demonstration of heat induction ? and sparks.It decided nothing.........
After pulling the entire shebang out,it turned out all that was wrong was one of the four carbon brushes had jammed in its carrier almost certainly due to lack of use.
A quicky clean with emery and back in.
Could have done the job by simply removing the protective cover over the brush access aperture and probably merely gently freeing it off with a screwdriver.
It had the engaging habit of allowing you to dump 30 metres of anchor and chain onto a muddy river bed and then resolutely refusing to recover it.
Which meant pulling it up by hand and covering everything nearbye in muddy splatter.