show me your distribution panels! ? think im going to just rewire anf fit a tiller!

[Travellingwithtoby]

Hi all,

So after multiple head scratching moments I pulled the switch panel to find a birds nest of disconnected or just loose wires. So I'm just going to fit a big hinged panel. So I want some inspiration and also any helpful hints!

I like the look of using resettable breakers for the switches, will have the solar and the wind controllers mounted there along with a BMS of some kind...

Currently the autopilot is missing sensors up the mast etc, and have realised the cockpit floor needs a lot of welding, I'm considering removing the wheel steering completely as ebbtides where originally tiller anyway. How interchangeable is the wheel autopilot vs tiller? (Not worried about resale value)

They are all autohelm tridata

Looking forward to the pictures and advice ?

 

[noelex]

The Din rail circuit breakers can be used to make a great switchboard. If the breakers fail (and they do fail with age particularly if used as a switch) they can be easily replaced as almost identical models available from several manufacturers.

 

[pvb]

The Din rail circuit breakers can be used to make a great switchboard. If the breakers fail (and they do fail with age particularly if used as a switch) they can be easily replaced as almost identical models available from several manufacturers.

There are some wonky wires in there! Needs tidying!

 

[Solent sailer]

Looks nice, I would have liked the 230v distribution covered/separated though.
It nice to know you can work on the 12v without having to consider coming in to contact with the 230v. what did you use for the back board, this is generally required to be a non-flammable material (pazolin etc.)

 

[Travellingwithtoby]

The Din rail circuit breakers can be used to make a great switchboard. If the breakers fail (and they do fail with age particularly if used as a switch) they can be easily replaced as almost identical models available from several manufacturers.

OK so wiring porn ?

Echoing others questions what did you use as a backing? Was it readily available in this format?

Are they specific dc breakers? I will go search but just incase you can send me a link ?

Dam that is pretty though!

 

[noelex]

Looks nice, I would have liked the 230v distribution covered/separated though.
It nice to know you can work on the 12v without having to consider coming in to contact with the 230v. what did you use for the back board, this is generally required to be a non-flammable material (pazolin etc.)

Yes, it would have been nice to have the 230v circuit breakers separate, but these are breakers are only for the inverter distribution. The panel was made by the boatbuilder, not myself. The back board is I think HPL which is non conductive and is classified as non flammable although this means the material does not catch fire easily rather than it will not burn.

 

[rogerthebodger]

This is the front of my switch panel with all MCB mounted on DIN rails behind the engraved endgened panel.

This is the connection inside the wheelhouse steering station.

This is my mains selection and distribution.

 

[fredrussell]

Has a sort of Boeing 747 cockpit feel - muchos switchery!

 

[noelex]

Are they specific dc breakers? I will go search but just incase you can send me a link ?

They are DC rated (up to 60v from memory). For the solar panel input breakers we used a different DC only circuit breaker with a higher voltage rating (250v from memory).

 

[lw395]

The tradition of bringing all the boat's wiring into one great rat's nest needs to be laid to rest.
It was fine for a Centaur with 6 lights and a VHF.
It's now unhelpful.

 

[noelex]

The tradition of bringing all the boat's wiring into one great rat's nest needs to be laid to rest.
It was fine for a Centaur with 6 lights and a VHF.
It's now unhelpful.

Sub panels can be sensible for some systems. We have used this philosophy for some devices, for example for the solar panel control, the owners cabin systems, battery switches and main fuses.

But for most switches it helpful to have them in one central easily accessible location.

 

[Travellingwithtoby]

This is the front of my switch panel with all MCB mounted on DIN rails behind the engraved endgened panel.

This is the connection inside the wheelhouse steering station.

This is my mains selection and distribution.

On the connections on the wheelhouse selection what are the little grey tabs?

And what specifically is happening in there? Sorry for the broad subject in question ?

I like all the switches!

 

[PaulRainbow]

Some information on the boat and it's systems would be helpful. there isn't a one switch fits all solution.

This is a relatively simple panel for a 31 footer, fitted with switches/circuit breakers :

Slightly more complex panel for a 38 foot Moody, same switch/breakers as above :

The following were part of a total rewire of 60 foot classic motor yacht, where the systems were not all in a single location, as mentioned by lw395 previously. The first panel consists of circuit breakers where switching is either not required or is switched locally (at the helm, for things like wipers, for example) :

The second panel is overhead at the chart table and includes a switch and separate breaker for each circuit :

 

[coopec]

Gee Roger you'd be horrified with my wiring/switchboard. (Under construction)

But I can follow it: I can give a wire a tug and see which one it is two meters away.

 

[coopec]

A bloke from South Africa (Roger?) suggested I number all the cables for ID so I bought these on eBay. (One day when I have nothing to do I'll sit down and number them all.) ?

 

[rogerthebodger]

On the connections on the wheelhouse selection what are the little grey tabs?

And what specifically is happening in there? Sorry for the broad subject in question ?

I like all the switches!

The terminal are standard din rail terminals and the little gray tabs are to link together adjacent terminals so I can have multi connections going to different locations.

If I wish to add any circuits I can simply add a terminal block into the the line and link it to the next connection

Numbering each wire is common in industrial panels and makes tracing wires easy.

I also separated out various destinations ( mast,engine,for cabin, aft cabin, inside steering station, cockpit steering station, solar targa, ect)

 

[rogerthebodger]

Gee Roger you'd be horrified with my wiring/switchboard. (Under construction)

But I can follow it: I can give a wire a tug and see which one it is two meters away.

View attachment 91896View attachment 91897

If it suits you that fine.

Just think about tracing a fault in 10 years time or adding some extra wiring.

I added 10% extra wiring and but the time I launch I had used up the 10% and added more.

 

[Travellingwithtoby]

Some information on the boat and it's systems would be helpful. there isn't a one switch fits all solution.

This is a relatively simple panel for a 31 footer, fitted with switches/circuit breakers :

Slightly more complex panel for a 38 foot Moody, same switch/breakers as above :

The following were part of a total rewire of 60 foot classic motor yacht, where the systems were not all in a single location, as mentioned by lw395 previously. The first panel consists of circuit breakers where switching is either not required or is switched locally (at the helm, for things like wipers, for example) :

The second panel is overhead at the chart table and includes a switch and separate breaker for each circuit :

Very nice!

Currently she is a 34foot ebbtide, I am modernising and updating her, almost all the the wiring needs replacing mostly as its blacked or just simply a mess, and I could spend a week tracing faults across old disconnected LIVE wires. So im setting up a temporary secondary fuse panel from the leisure batteries so as if can disconnect everything else and run the 12v through one set of conduit and 240V through a second conduit with all the breakers, fuses, controllers etc al, in one place

plan so far is running a generator head from an auxiliary shift from main engine on a clutch, uprated alternator, need to wire the mast up, fit external lights, run cables for the solar and wind generator and also a b2b charger for the dingy on davits/when alongside. Automatic bilge pumps with switchable alarms fitting 2 slimline chest freezers one as a fridge one as a freezer. 3kva pure sine wave inverter.

Bank of batteries will be T105s around 500- 800ah

I'm considering another 400w of solar as in the sun I'm fine for power Inc wet dry vac grinders and power saws plus charging tool batteries and radio but overcast (haven't deck stepped windvane yet) I have to be more careful

I like the ease of the breakers on din panels, for both diagnosis if a fault pops up (see what I did There ?) also means mounting the changeover 3p from generator/ shore to inverter (would be good if I could switch the battery charger off with the same switch! )

any advice welcome!

Gee Roger you'd be horrified with my wiring/switchboard. (Under construction)

But I can follow it: I can give a wire a tug and see which one it is two meters away.

View attachment 91896View attachment 91897

OK so take yours, double it and then shrink the size of the access panel to 12x12 inches and add another 20 or so random bare wires just floating ??

I could work with yours! Hahahhaaha

A bloke from South Africa (Roger?) suggested I number all the cables for ID so I bought these on eBay. (One day when I have nothing to do I'll sit down and number them all.) ?


View attachment 91920

Aha I have a dynamo battery powered lable printer to make that task less painful! Haha

 

[rogerthebodger]

Very nice!

Currently she is a 34foot ebbtide, I am modernising and updating her, almost all the the wiring needs replacing mostly as its blacked or just simply a mess, and I could spend a week tracing faults across old disconnected LIVE wires. So im setting up a temporary secondary fuse panel from the leisure batteries so as if can disconnect everything else and run the 12v through one set of conduit and 240V through a second conduit with all the breakers, fuses, controllers etc al, in one place

plan so far is running a generator head from an auxiliary shift from main engine on a clutch, uprated alternator, need to wire the mast up, fit external lights, run cables for the solar and wind generator and also a b2b charger for the dingy on davits/when alongside. Automatic bilge pumps with switchable alarms fitting 2 slimline chest freezers one as a fridge one as a freezer. 3kva pure sine wave inverter.

Bank of batteries will be T105s around 500- 800ah

I'm considering another 400w of solar as in the sun I'm fine for power Inc wet dry vac grinders and power saws plus charging tool batteries and radio but overcast (haven't deck stepped windvane yet) I have to be more careful

I like the ease of the breakers on din panels, for both diagnosis if a fault pops up (see what I did There ?) also means mounting the changeover 3p from generator/ shore to inverter (would be good if I could switch the battery charger off with the same switch! )

any advice welcome!


OK so take yours, double it and then shrink the size of the access panel to 12x12 inches and add another 20 or so random bare wires just floating ??

I could work with yours! Hahahhaaha


Aha I have a dynamo battery powered lable printer to make that task less painful! Haha

If you have a wiring density like mine dymo lableling will take up too much space to number each wire.

Colour wire numbers help when your eye site stats to fail you like mine.

 

[Travellingwithtoby]

If you have a wiring density like mine dymo lableling will take up too much space to number each wire.

Colour wire numbers help when your eye site stats to fail you like mine.

I didn't really think of that. And in an urgent situation I think knowing just the color would help!