Should I anti-foul my prop?

My propeller is NiBrAl, I have used Hempel's Alu Safe antifouling on the propeller and copper-based self-polishing on the hull. As far as I understand, copper-based materials should not be used on bronze or bronze alloy propellers.
I am not sure why that would be the case. Copper is anodic to bronzes, so if any galvanic corrosion was to take place, quite unlikely, it would be the copper coating that is lost.
 
I am not sure why that would be the case. Copper is anodic to bronzes, so if any galvanic corrosion was to take place, quite unlikely, it would be the copper coating that is lost.

Which is the main reason its difficult to Copper Coat a prop and have it long term. Serious preparation and priming to assist the CC to adhere .. as it usually flakes off.
 
Which is the main reason its difficult to Copper Coat a prop and have it long term. Serious preparation and priming to assist the CC to adhere .. as it usually flakes off.
Is it any harder to get coppercoat to stick to a prop than any other coating?
I presumed it was down to differential expansion, effects of cavitation, etc.
 
Is it any harder to get coppercoat to stick to a prop than any other coating?
I presumed it was down to differential expansion, effects of cavitation, etc.

My understanding was that additional to the usual adherence problems that can be - the anodic action can increase the failure of the CC adhering ..

I can only go by what yard guys have told me ...
 
My understanding was that additional to the usual adherence problems that can be - the anodic action can increase the failure of the CC adhering ..

I can only go by what yard guys have told me ...
Coppercoat is said to be non-conducting by its makers, as every grain of copper is surrounded by isolating resin. Which should make galvanic activity impossible.

When I have tried to paint copper alloy metals with Coppercoat the problem has been adhesion - without a primer it simply will not stick.
 
Coppercoat is said to be non-conducting by its makers, as every grain of copper is surrounded by isolating resin. Which should make galvanic activity impossible.

When I have tried to paint copper alloy metals with Coppercoat the problem has been adhesion - without a primer it simply will not stick.

OK ... I know when I mentioned to the yard to continue the high copper content hard racing onto my prop .. they advised not to as they reckoned it would not adhere ... would be subject to anodic action ..

No argument - just a comment :

If the copper is enveloped by isolating resin - how does the copper work to reduce fouling ?
 
OK ... I know when I mentioned to the yard to continue the high copper content hard racing onto my prop .. they advised not to as they reckoned it would not adhere ... would be subject to anodic action ..

No argument - just a comment :

If the copper is enveloped by isolating resin - how does the copper work to reduce fouling ?
You sand it back to expose the copper.
 
Well this is a subject. I've just received 250ml of coppecoat epoxy, I still have 500gm of copper powder. My prop had two coats of epoxy which , I hope is still on there. When she comes out I will get the prop off and give it as many coats as I can. In front of the woodburner.
 
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