Shock Cord Crimp/Ferrule?

[scholar]

Hello

Does anyone know how I can replace the shock cord that ties down the oars on my old Quicksilver dinghy (when the oars are stowed). The existing shock cord is perished - it is 3 or 4 mm (maybe 1/8”) and the two ends are neatly crimped with a double-ended stainless steel ferrule that hides away in the plastic fitting.

I can find shock cord, of course, but cannot find any ferrules like this.

 

[Kilo]

Could you crimp a short piece of stainless tubing?
These people do loads of stuff but their ferrules seem to be with the contents - wire or bungee - side by side.
Wire Rope Ferrules, Crimps and Stops | S3i Group

 

[Plum]

Hello

Does anyone know how I can replace the shock cord that ties down the oars on my old Quicksilver dinghy (when the oars are stowed). The existing shock cord is perished - it is 3 or 4 mm (maybe 1/8”) and the two ends are neatly crimped with a double-ended stainless steel ferrule that hides away in the plastic fitting.

I can find shock cord, of course, but cannot find any ferrules like this.

View attachment 134928

Suggest either a whipping or a double fisherman's knot.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[andsarkit]

You can get plated copper butt splice connectors. Easy to crimp with normal tools.
Butt splices

 

[Kilo]

Both the replies above are better suggestions than mine. Wot they said.

 

[thinwater]

The challenge with crimping shock cord vs. wire is that the ratio is MUCH different. If you crimp it like a wire it will pull right out. Don't use a ratchet crimper and test you work.

 

[Daverw]

Melt the two ends before putting butt connector and they help it not pull out

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Suggest either a whipping or a double fisherman's knot.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Sew it and then whip it - that's very strong.

 

[jamie N]

Cable ties.

 

[Neeves]

If you sew a mouse line to the end and then thread the connector up the mouse line - now stretch the cord - it will now be thinner. Size the connector so that its a snug fit when stretched. Slide on connector and compress preferably with an appropriately sized swaging tool. This also works if you want to whip. Simply stretch the cord between two 'strong' points - whip the thinned cord and when you release the tension you have very tight whipping. You can cut of one end to neaten it up and melt if necessary. Leave enough tail to the whipping to sew through the cord.

Then for complete belt and braces - cover your whipping with a swage, or shrink fit cover. The best shrink fit covers are marketed for rope, to cover splices, rather than electrical covers that are not as robust.

Clear Heat Shrink Tube - Glue Lined Dual Wall

Not quite the same as bungy - but a similar result



This is professionally sewn - I hand sew (not quite so neatly ) and then also add a shrink fit cover. I remove the plastic thimble - its a waste of time.

Jonathan

 

[Daydream believer]

View attachment 134964

This is professionally sewn - I hand sew (not quite so neatly ) and then also add a shrink fit cover. I remove the plastic thimble - its a waste of time.

Jonathan

I have used shrink fit sleeves on some loops. ie lazy jacks etc. But I do a full whipping. I do not see the point of sewing through the line in the way shown. It puts an uneven strain on both outer & inner sections & takes longer to do for no obvious improvement in result. Why would one do that I would ask?

 

[Daydream believer]

I use these for bungee loops on our club committee boat. But then I do use a lot. A chandler may be able to sell you half a dozen & you can overlap the ends of the bungee & fix 3 .If you want you may be able to form 2 loops in the bungee at the base where it fits to the boat so that the upper section does not have the joint showing
crimps

 

[Plum]

Sew it and then whip it - that's very strong.

That is certainly a good option but I have never had an unstitched whipped eye on bungee fail.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Poignard]

I use s/s hog rings with shock cord.

They, and the hog ring pliers, are not expensive .

 

[Neeves]

If you sew a mouse line to the end and then thread the connector up the mouse line - now stretch the cord - it will now be thinner. Size the connector so that its a snug fit when stretched. Slide on connector and compress preferably with an appropriately sized swaging tool. This also works if you want to whip. Simply stretch the cord between two 'strong' points - whip the thinned cord and when you release the tension you have very tight whipping. You can cut of one end to neaten it up and melt if necessary. Leave enough tail to the whipping to sew through the cord.

Then for complete belt and braces - cover your whipping with a swage, or shrink fit cover. The best shrink fit covers are marketed for rope, to cover splices, rather than electrical covers that are not as robust.

Clear Heat Shrink Tube - Glue Lined Dual Wall

Not quite the same as bungy - but a similar result

View attachment 134964

This is professionally sewn - I hand sew (not quite so neatly ) and then also add a shrink fit cover. I remove the plastic thimble - its a waste of time.

Jonathan

This sewing is on one arm of a bridle, a snubber. The eye takes any tension in an anchor rode and is sewn right through to offer maximum strength for a potentially critical component (the back stop is the chain). The rope is a kermantle construction - its not a lazy jack. Its not my design - I don't think the stitching is long enough and on our snubbers/birdle I have the stitching over a longer length.

Stitching eyes are common place - a simple Google search throws up a number of examples, just one:

https://aspiringsafety.com.au/product/aspiring-stitched-sewn-rope-eyes-8mm-20mm/

I would never, ever, suggest whipping to form an eye on a bridle or snubber nor on any eye to be used in a critical a[pplication.

If there is knowledge at to how to splice an eye in Kernmantle - there are a thousands who would welcome the technology. You can use a knot, we have used a halyard knot - but they look clumsy..

This is Kernmantle



But you do not need to learn to spice kernmantle - sewing as shown in the photo is common place - and if you have a friendly sailmaker or decent heavy duty sewing machine - its neither difficult nor expensive.

The image was to show a shrink cover, without the need for the introduction of the word 'anchor' into the thread.


I apologise for introducing some thread drift but for those critical of sewing an eye. Hopefully the drift has opened one or two of the minds of the luddites.

Stitching Instead of Splicing - Practical Sailor

The work has been done - no need to guess.

I was introduced to sewing braided rope by Pryde's in Hong Kong. They inserted sheets into hollow tape, a sewed the sheets into the tape. The tape then was cow hitched - and being tape was low profile and did not catch on shrouds or forestay. If sewing thought braided was good enough for N Pryde - it was cetasily good enough for us. We use the same technique now - updated as we sew through dyneema hollow tape with braided dyneema thread.

Take care, stay safe

Jonathan

 

[Daydream believer]

I use s/s hog rings with shock cord.

They, and the hog ring pliers, are not expensive .

I have done 80+ now & never needed the special pliers. Seems a bit OTT just for the OPs needs. A decent pair of pliers will do just fine.

 

[Daydream believer]

If there is knowledge at to how to splice an eye in Kernmantle - there are a thousands who would welcome the technology.

Well believe it or not some say that there is Kermantle splice
Have to admit that I have no interest in trying though.

 

[scholar]

Thank you for all the suggestions everyone - these were helpful in thinking it through.

I have decided to try to copy the original as far as possible, with:

- 4mm shock cord (thanks for the suggestion of fusing the two ends in the joint - I will try that; and

- a length of 6mm/0.5mm wall SS tube that I will cut to length and crimp in the vice with a suitable spike to copy the original crimping. I have various electrical crimps, but didn’t think these would be tough enough. [The tube is available on eBay, from China, so will take a month]

As far as I can tell, the dimensions of the above match the original pretty well.

I’ll see how it goes - its not safety critical, just a neatness thing ?

Cheers