Shaft Anodes, is locktignt recommended?

I don't see any reason not to, but I've replaced shaft anodes underwater where obviously I couldn't use loctite, and they stayed put just fine.
 
If you tighten it well, the nut/bolt head will sit in the zinc and do not move. If you have it handy you might add a drop of silicone/sealant in the zinc recess just over the nut, the following year you ll find a partially eroded anode with its bolts still locked. :)
 
N
Using them for the first time this year, 1.5" shafts. Whats the hive view, will they be ok just done up nice & tight or is it prudent to use locktight?
Not relevant here but I lost the split ring anode on my saildrive after 3 months so used loctite and mastic over the holes on the next one. Still good 18 months later.
 
Towards the end of the season, I could hear the anode spinning after shutting down the engine.

I had a 1" shaft i(25.4mm), and used to buy a 25mm anode. Then given the Vyv Cox patented treatment.
 
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I had a 1" shaft i(25.4mm), and used to buy a 25mm anode. Then given the Vyv Cox patented treatment.
Sometimes I regret not patenting some of these ideas! This is one, the other of course, is the three chain links between anchor and swivel. That one is now quoted worldwide: Jimmy Green, having initially dismissed the idea as ridiculous, will now sell you three links specifically for the job.

I do hold one patent, for a pipeline cleaning pig, but have derived no income from it, although I know that a major company uses it.
 
Sometimes I regret not patenting some of these ideas! This is one, the other of course, is the three chain links between anchor and swivel. That one is now quoted worldwide: Jimmy Green, having initially dismissed the idea as ridiculous, will now sell you three links specifically for the job.

I do hold one patent, for a pipeline cleaning pig, but have derived no income from it, although I know that a major company uses it.
Shame you can't monetize the ideas.
The info is appreciated though
 
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Sometimes I regret not patenting some of these ideas! This is one, the other of course, is the three chain links between anchor and swivel. That one is now quoted worldwide: Jimmy Green, having initially dismissed the idea as ridiculous, will now sell you three links specifically for the job.

I do hold one patent, for a pipeline cleaning pig, but have derived no income from it, although I know that a major company uses it.
If they are infringing your patent why have you not sought recompense?
 
Using them for the first time this year, 1.5" shafts. Whats the hive view, will they be ok just done up nice & tight or is it prudent to use locktight?
There are different types of locktight, so called temporary and then Never to be undone again type if I am correct.
 
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Completely unnecessary if you use the two hammer method. Tighten the bolts as much as possible. With a hammer in each hand knock the two halves of the anode together. Tighten again. Repeat until no more tightening is possible. 2 lb hammers are recommended
An added advantage of this method is badly cast anodes break. Better break them now and have time to fit proper ones before launching. :)
 
Life is too short. Imagine the costs and hassle involved in hiring lawyers, court appearances, engineering expert witnesses, etc. etc.
Well yes. Depends how much money they are making from your invention perhaps, if not alot then you are right but if millions then another story perhaps?
 
Sometimes I regret not patenting some of these ideas! This is one, the other of course, is the three chain links between anchor and swivel. That one is now quoted worldwide: Jimmy Green, having initially dismissed the idea as ridiculous, will now sell you three links specifically for the job.

I do hold one patent, for a pipeline cleaning pig, but have derived no income from it, although I know that a major company uses it.
An excellent idea I first read on your site and tell anyone who will listen!

Swivel problems and solutions
 
I don't see any reason not to, but I've replaced shaft anodes underwater where obviously I couldn't use loctite, and they stayed put just fine.
Why could you not use Loctite. I changed a prop underwater and used Loctite.

Loctite is anaerobic (I think that is the word) and needs water to develop its strength.

Adhesives Test - Practical Sailor


People don't believe any of this and took the trouble to test out the concept - to find it works as described.

Read post 33

Rigging Cutters


Now whether it is the best solution, I doubt, as Vyv's recommendation seems wise - but under water Vyv's recommendation might be more difficult to complete.


Using Loctite under water is just like using Loctite in the dry - except you are all wet and not in the best position to coat bolts with the Loctite. My wife and I worked out the process and the schedule and laid out all the bits and pieces in order. I assembled the prop in order under water and was handed each component (suitably coated with Loctite when relevant). The key was the simple fact 'Loctite sets under water' and planning in advance. Loctite is sufficiently viscous that if you are 'gentle' you can insert a coated bolt without losing any of the adhesive/sealent.

Jonathan
 
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Completely unnecessary if you use the two hammer method. Tighten the bolts as much as possible. With a hammer in each hand knock the two halves of the anode together. Tighten again. Repeat until no more tightening is possible. 2 lb hammers are recommended
Brilliant, thank you Vyv & to others. Lift out today so thanks for prompt responses 😎
 
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