Servicing and winterising Volvo Penta 2002

[eddystone]

Although not fantastically adept at mechanical (even less electrical) things I feel I need to be able to service the VP 2002(raw water cooled) in my newly acquired Sadler 32 so that I have some chance of dealing with problems when there is no AA around. For the RYA diesel maintenance course I did at the end of August we used a derelict Yanmar to play with, which is a bit different. I have a host of questions.

1. Looks like the 2002, unlike Yanmars has only one fuel filter - there is a washable strainer incorporated in the lift pump so it seems to only have 2 stages instead of 3, and no water trap - right or wrong?
2. The consensus seems to be strongly to change oil and filter now rather than before launching next spring, but also to run under load for at least half an hour before sucking the oil out - clearly this is impossible as it's on a cradle and I haven't got a big enough bucket so I think I'll go for changing the oil now anyway.
3. I was wondering what sort of antifreeze to use for running through the water passages
4. Also, I think oils have moved on since 1986 - what engine oil should I use - 15/40 mineral? - is there any special marine oil? same for reduction gearbox oil.
5. Obviously I need to have a poke around to find the water inlet seacock and the fuel inlets but on the Sadler, the only access to the fuel tank seems to be from the cockpit locker and I can't see any way of doing what I want to, which is to drain any water out of the tank before topping up to full and sticking in Grotemar (?). I may just have to get the fuel filtered and returned to the tank professionally.
6. Other advice (not from the course specifically) is the batteries must be fully charged over winter or frost will kill them (and anyway they should be charged up before being tested). I inherited with the boat a Halfords automatic battery charger - I'm not sure this is the ideal kit for marine batteries - do I need a mains battery charger? Actually I was planning to get one of these combined chargers/jump starters but I'm not sure what ampage I would need to kick the 2002 into life. Also, the three sealed Numax 86amp hour units each have a battery condition indicator on top but doesn't seem to do anything - I guess I need to get a battery tester (although not a hydrometer as wouldn't work with sealed units?)

The boat is currently at Totnes - as I need to do this next weekend, probably too late for mail order - anywhere in the Dart area (or Exeter as it's en route) where I can get VP service parts etc?

Oh, nearly forgot, there is a big brown box in the exhaust hose line - what does that do?

 

[jac]

In order.

1. Not aware of the Yanmar but are you confusing the fine filter on the engine on the engine and a separate one in the fuel system? The first one is a coarse one, the engine one a fine one. Change that, check the earlier primary filter.
2. Run the engine to warm the oil as can be thick when cold. If changing now you may not get it all out but if you don't ow how old it is probably better to do so now as old oil is acidic. Worth changing oil in the new season a bit earlier than you would otherwise.
3. Whatever is cheapest.
4. Read the manual it will tell the viscosity. It will also specify an API rating (something like cd). Make sure you get the right one.
5. Are you thinking in terms of an inspection hatch. Not sure on Sadler 32 but not all boats have them.
6. Lots of threads on here re Batteries. Re the existing charger, depends if It has a float charge. If so then should be ok to keepthe batteries ok over winter. Not really sure that it is suitable for marine use. If you have access to shore power and will be going from marina to marina then something connected to shore power should be fine. If you're not then you will need to consider solar/wind and getting the best from alternator - look at sterling products for example- alternator booster, alternator to battery chargers etc.

Big brown box in exhaust is probably water trap. Basically you need to drain it before the winter otherwise it may split.

 

[VicS]

As above e brown box is probably watertrap. Purpose to safely hold all the water left in the exhaust system when you stop the engine.

Fully charge the batteries with the charger you have. Realistically you need a charger with at least 8 amps max output to charge a 86Ah battery or the charging time becomes rather long. Recharge once or twice during the winter although they should last 6 months without if necessary.
Presumably 2 banks . You'd have to parallel them to keep them on a float charge with a single output charger. That is not ideal. Personally I'd not sleep soundly if I'd left a battery charger running... I dont even leave my automatic charger running overnight at home!

Having fuel professionally removed filtered and returned is a bit of an overkill unless you have a problem. Fill the tank to minimize condensation risk

The cheapest conventional ( non OAT/ longlife/ advanced) antifreeze you can find will be more than adequate for winter flush/ storage. Flush well with fresh water before introducing the antifreeze though. Remember its toxic and should not be released into the environment. Catch/drain and dispose of safely and responsibly

It'll be difficult to suck out oil cold. It should be done well warmed up and in practice necessary unless you can drain via the sump drain plug. Risky running the engine ashore if just propped up but a decent cradle should support it.

Oil specs have as you say "moved on" and you will be unlikely to now get the api grade ( CD or whatever) specified in the owners manual. Be sure to get the correct viscosity grade though ( the higher number is the one to match with multigrade oils)

Worth looking as Vyv Cox's website regarding oil grades http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/default.aspx

I take it you have the VP owners manual if not download from http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/pages/publication_search.aspx

There is also a workshop manual at http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads.html

 

[eddystone]

Well the surveyor ran the engine and it didn't fall off the (steel) cradle so I guess it's OK to run it a couple of times a) to thin the oil and b) to flush with anti-freeze. Re. fuel filters, as far as I can see whereas the Yanmar had a course filter incorporated into the water trap, then lift pump, then fine filter. The Volvo, according to the handbook just has strainer incorporated into the lift pump and then a fine filter. The owners manual does refer to an optional water separator/coarse filter but haven't checked to see if this one was so fitted - if it wasn't surely it would have to have a water separator somewhere in the fuel path from tank to engine?

Yes agree cleaning fuel is overkill and just wanted to top up and put some bug buster in, but really wanted to siphon off whatever is in the bottom of the tank until get clean fuel - that's why looking for somewhere to put syphon in.

 

[Cantata]

Brown box is deffo the exhaust water trap type used on Sadlers of that era.
As others have said you won't be able to suck out the oil unless the engine has run for a while and warmed it (probably at least 30 mins for a raw-water-cooled 2002), nor actually will you be able to flush through with the antifreeze mix because there is a thermostat in the engine block that prevents full circulation before the engine's warmed up. You can get round the latter by removing the thermostat, an easy job on that engine, see the engine manual.
Also in the engine manual it will highlight the engine anode, which is on the front of the engine. This needs to be removed and checked, and replaced if there's not much left of it.
As nobody else has mentioned it, best to use mineral oil, not synthetic or semi-synthetic.

 

[eddystone]

30 minutes! I don't think my bucket is that big - how do people usually do that on a cradle - not sure there is a water supply nearby

 

[VicS]

30 minutes! I don't think my bucket is that big - how do people usually do that on a cradle - not sure there is a water supply nearby

You need a good water supply in order to flush the cooling system but for warming up to change the oil and filing with antifreeze solution you can collect the water coming out of the exhaust and return it to the bucket on the pump suction. In fact recirculating it is probably the most effective way of getting the system filled with a uniform antifreeze concentration .

 

[alahol2]

You need a good water supply in order to flush the cooling system but for warming up to change the oil and filing with antifreeze solution you can collect the water coming out of the exhaust and return it to the bucket on the pump suction. In fact recirculating it is probably the most effective way of getting the system filled with a uniform antifreeze concentration .

As Vic says, recirculate. I hang a bucket under the exhaust outlet and various strategically placed sheets of polythene to direct the water into the bucket. A piece of hose runs from the bucket and is jammed up the engine cooling water inlet. Depending how well you get the exhaust water back into the bucket, you can run the engine as long as you like. Just top-up the bucket occasionally as you lose water from splashing etc. Add antifreeze toward the end of the run.

 

[reeac]

As Vic says, recirculate. I hang a bucket under the exhaust outlet and various strategically placed sheets of polythene to direct the water into the bucket. A piece of hose runs from the bucket and is jammed up the engine cooling water inlet. Depending how well you get the exhaust water back into the bucket, you can run the engine as long as you like. Just top-up the bucket occasionally as you lose water from splashing etc. Add antifreeze toward the end of the run.

Instead of strategically placed poly sheet I stick an appropriate diameter plastic pipe up the exhaust and it's long enough to direct all the water back into the bucket. Suspend the bucket from the pushpit and tight up against the exhaust as it will sag down once you pour water into it.

 

[alahol2]

Instead of strategically placed poly sheet I stick an appropriate diameter plastic pipe up the exhaust and it's long enough to direct all the water back into the bucket. Suspend the bucket from the pushpit and tight up against the exhaust as it will sag down once you pour water into it.

I had just done this, changed the oil and filters etc, removed the cover plate for the impeller to take it out for the winter... instead of the odd bit of water dripping out of the pump, it kept coming, 5 gallons of it! It was all in the bilge before I realised I'd left the recirculating system attached. The whole bucketful had syphoned into the boat. At least the bilges won't freeze.

 

[Spi D]

Seems you'd benefit from a little literature.

I've put up two manuals for you here:
http://spidybot.com/VolvoWorkshop_/volvo_penta_2002_owner.pdf
http://spidybot.com/VolvoWorkshop_/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf

Be patient.. server is a bit sleepy.

 

[eddystone]

Thanks for all the advice - however, I must be really stupid! - the exhaust hose carries a mixture of exhaust gas and hot water - why would you want a water trap?

Main outstanding issue is how to siphon off water/fuel at the bottom of the tank

 

[PabloPicasso]

Thanks for all the advice - however, I must be really stupid! - the exhaust hose carries a mixture of exhaust gas and hot water - why would you want a water trap?

Main outstanding issue is how to siphon off water/fuel at the bottom of the tank

With an oil extraction pump like the pela pump. http://www.pelapumps.co.uk
That's what I use to suck out the sump oil, and suck water from the bottom of the tank, and anything else that needs a good suck!

 

[VicS]

Thanks for all the advice - however, I must be really stupid! - the exhaust hose carries a mixture of exhaust gas and hot water - why would you want a water trap?

When you stop the engine you need to be sure that the water in the exhaust hose is safely contained so that it cannot get back into the engine no matter how severely the boat may be tossed around. The water trap is one way of doing that.

Main outstanding issue is how to siphon off water/fuel at the bottom of the tank

Sucking out the water from the tank with a pump or a vacuum oil extractor is probably a more practical method than siphoning but which ever way you do it you need access via an inspection cover or via the filler. Ideally the tank would have a small sump and a drain at the lowest point then it would be easy.

 

[PabloPicasso]

Sucking out the water from the tank with a pump or a vacuum oil extractor is probably a more practical method than siphoning but which ever way you do it you need access via an inspection cover or via the filler. Ideally the tank would have a small sump and a drain at the lowest point then it would be easy.[/QUOTE]

Yes my tank is flat bottomed so no joy there. Perhaps the op will fare better. I still suck using an oil extraction pump via the fuel filler.

 

[eddystone]

When you stop the engine you need to be sure that the water in the exhaust hose is safely contained so that it cannot get back into the engine no matter how severely the boat may be tossed around. The water trap is one way of doing that.


Of course I should have thought of that!

 

[alahol2]

When you stop the engine you need to be sure that the water in the exhaust hose is safely contained so that it cannot get back into the engine no matter how severely the boat may be tossed around. The water trap is one way of doing that.

There is also the situation where the engine doesn't start immediately. When turning over on the key the engine will pump water but if it doesn't start there will be no exhaust pressure to evacuate the water in the exhaust pipe. The trap will help prevent the water filling the exhaust pipe and back filling into the engine. The trap will only delay the time taken to fill the exhaust so if the engine doesn't start, don't keep cranking, turn the water inlet cock off.

 

[eddystone]

Also just wondered roughly how much anti-freeze mixture will be taken up before emerges out of exhaust (just that I'm doing this on my own and need to plan the arrangement of bucket and hose so that can only use up a/f and don't start feeding just fresh water in before I can stop engine).

 

[vyv_cox]

Also just wondered roughly how much anti-freeze mixture will be taken up before emerges out of exhaust (just that I'm doing this on my own and need to plan the arrangement of bucket and hose so that can only use up a/f and don't start feeding just fresh water in before I can stop engine).

Not sure you are fully understanding the process. The idea is to circulate the antifreeze mixture around the engine, via the bucket and hose, until the thermostat opens. This ensures that the engine is full of the mixture, inhibiting corrosion and preventing freezing and possible cracking of parts of the cooling jacket. At a guess your engine coolant capacity is around two litres so you probably need to make up about five litres to ensure it circulates efficiently.

 

[eddystone]

Not sure you are fully understanding the process. The idea is to circulate the antifreeze mixture around the engine, via the bucket and hose, until the thermostat opens. This ensures that the engine is full of the mixture, inhibiting corrosion and preventing freezing and possible cracking of parts of the cooling jacket. At a guess your engine coolant capacity is around two litres so you probably need to make up about five litres to ensure it circulates efficiently.

On the diesel engine maintenance course, advice was to remove the thermostat first, and run just long enough for anti-freeze mixture to circulate fully.