Seized stainless steel turnbuckle!?

Roberto said:
A couple of friends indeed had to use an angle grinder to cut the turnbuckles, and after having tried all sorts of potions, heat, etc.
I use Lanocote when first mounting them. it works very well they can be screwed or unscrewed even several years later.

Looking at the picture, they look identical to mine: can you see "ACMO" engraved on the turnbuckle body, or in tangs? If so they are most likely stainless steel. Open cage bronze ones from Selden etc have a slightly different shape.
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I'm 99% certain that it's a Sta-Lok Turnbuckle. Well atleast the other one in view is, as you can see the orange dot on it.
In which case its a Bronze alloy.
 
Thanks to everyone who replied - all sorted now.

Correct application of adjustables, property and correctly against the flats, and getting a good angle on them, and it did move. Unwinding was slow and stiff - I shall know better for next time.

I agree with the comments that they're likely bronze, although TBH I think this is more obvious in the original pic if viewed on a laptop than it is in real life.

I appreciate all replies.
 
KompetentKrew said:
Thanks to everyone who replied - all sorted now.

Correct application of adjustables, property and correctly against the flats, and getting a good angle on them, and it did move. Unwinding was slow and stiff - I shall know better for next time.

I agree with the comments that they're likely bronze, although TBH I think this is more obvious in the original pic if viewed on a laptop than it is in real life.

I appreciate all replies.
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One of my each winter to do's is to loosen turn buckles and grease. Then return to original position. ol'will
 
KompetentKrew said:
Ta, any particular kind of grease?
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Try lanocoat or something similar if bronze against stainless or bronze......if stainless on stainless then something like this.....https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/lubricants-and-chemicals/lubricants/anti-seize-lubricant-tube-85gm/p/ROC7706431H?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwoPOwBhAeEiwAJuXRh8rmVOGZpyOqQTJM6Mej-ULIwAiFLa6Wmotmfa3BwOOfig41xWrR7RoC0IkQAvD_BwE
 
William_H said:
IMHO opinion whatever you have, I use axle grease. ol'will
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This is indeed my general policy when it comes to grease.

I looked up the pot of magenta stuff that I inherited with the boat and it mentioned being suitable for immersion in water - like the bearings of boat-launching trailers and stuff like that. And copaslip is good for high temperatures. So I rather feel like that is most eventualities covered.
 
rogerthebodger said:
I use wool fat

https://medicolab.africa/shop/skin-care/wool-fat-bp/
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Aka lanolin, also base for Lanocote. Also useful in place of duralac or tefgel. I use it on st.steel turnbuckles, but also in all the steel/light alloy assemblies present in the Windpilot, a half of which is often underwater. I also used it to isolate the rigging steel Sparcraft shell terminals from the mast walls, no ill effects several years later. Or galvanised steel shackle pins for anchoring stuff. It solidifies and remains there for years.
 
Well I'm happyto say that what I thought were two seized up turnbuckles came undone fairly easily.

I used a brush to drip a little diesel on the threads (as an easing oil), warmed it up with a heat gun, and undid with two big adjustable spanners.

After an initial struggle it all came apart in my hands.

Few. 🙂
 
Pye_End said:
Galling.

Stainless Steel Galling and Its Causes | RG Group
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If stainless, yes. Google this , it is long, complicated topic. The summary, not known to all sailors, is to NEVER use stailess turnbuckles on anything that is adjusted under load. Lifelines, OK, standing rigging, no.

Bronze, or more commonly, chrome plated bronze or stainless with bronze threaded inserts. Bronze does not have the same affinity for galling at a glance.

A stainless fitting (turnbuckle or bolt that is drawn up a distance under load too quickly and without lubrication) can gall within seconds. Four years doesn't mean anything special. Doing it safely takes good lube and VERY slow turning with pauses to cool.
 
Tefgel has become go-to for antisieze on most bolts, turnbuckles, and even electrical plugs (large ones that are not undone often--not shore power or electronics). Locktite LB 8023 is a very close second.

I did a bunch of tests for a mag, which included leaving samples of common disimilar metals in the intertidal zone under a dock for several years. These were considerably better than Lanicote, another tallow products, and several "marine" antisieze products, and two top-rated waterproof greases. Messy and hard to get off your fingers, but they stay in place and prevent corrosion.
 
thinwater said:
Tefgel has become go-to for antisieze on most bolts, turnbuckles, and even electrical plugs (large ones that are not undone often--not shore power or electronics). Locktite LB 8023 is a very close second.

I did a bunch of tests for a mag, which included leaving samples of common disimilar metals in the intertidal zone under a dock for several years. These were considerably better than Lanicote, another tallow products, and several "marine" antisieze products, and two top-rated waterproof greases. Messy and hard to get off your fingers, but they stay in place and prevent corrosion.
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I was recommended to use Tefgel by a rigger a few years ago. Having purchased it, I could then understand why he wouldnt leave me some.
 
Boathook said:
I was recommended to use Tefgel by a rigger a few years ago. Having purchased it, I could then understand why he wouldnt leave me some.
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I still have an almost full standard tube of Mastinox (it s so messy I just use it on very specific occasions), I bought it about 20yo for about 20 euro, today a small 160ml cartridge costs in excess of 200USD o_O
 
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