Seeking Input on Seacock Failures & Titanium Upgrade Possibilities

[ti64advancedhardware]

Hey everyone,

I’ve been spending quite a bit of time lately looking into seacock failures—particularly in bronze and composites—and, as we all know, a failed seacock is one of the quickest ways to end up in Davy Jones’ Locker. Since these components are critical to staying afloat, I think it might be time to consider some serious upgrades. I’m curious to hear your thoughts on the following:

---

1. Thoughts on Titanium Grade 5 Seacocks

• I’ve been exploring the possibility of manufacturing seacocks and thru-hull assemblies out of Titanium Grade 5 (Ti64 – aerospace grade). My thinking is that bronze has remained the standard from a time when advanced metals like Ti64 weren’t practical to produce. Nowadays, with modern manufacturing, it’s actually quite feasible—yet old habits die hard.
• Based on my research, Ti64 offers significant corrosion and galvanic resistance, potentially making it a “one-and-done” lifetime installation—especially important considering how critical these valves are for keeping a boat afloat.
• I believe I could accomplish this at the existing (or possibly lower) price point of bronze seacocks.

---

​

2. Does anyone use Zerk grease fittings with Groco seacocks?

• Is this a part of your regular maintenance routine, or would you prefer an improved, self-lubricating seal design?
• Another major upgrade I’m considering is freeze resistance, so if you forget to winterize or face unexpectedly cold conditions, the seacock remains protected.
• Any issues or complaints with current seacock designs in general?

---

​

3. What Other Critical Components Could Benefit From Titanium?

• If you’ve experienced frustrations with bronze or stainless hardware (through-hulls, bolts, etc.) failing or corroding, I’d love to hear about them. Pictures are always welcome!
• I have the capabilities and technology to work with Ti64 efficiently, so I’m exploring which parts might see the greatest benefit. In theory, I could produce these for a price comparable to bronze or stainless steel.

---

​

Ultimately, I’m looking to see if there’s enough interest and real-world demand for titanium seacocks (and possibly other marine hardware). I’d love to hear your feedback, experiences, or any issues you’ve encountered that might point to a better solution.

Thanks in advance for your insight—I’m looking forward to reading your thoughts!



-Josh

 

[greeny]

It think that maybe the increasing use of plastics or composites may have beaten you to it in most cases nowadays. Love your idea but think most are happy fitting composite nowadays and those that aren't may be in small numbers. I may be wrong but its what I see in the busy boatyard week in week out. However it is a material that is not used often on boats as stainless has pretty much ruled supreme for years now. Maybe worth examining other areas of potential use and its suitability as a material.

 

[Halo]

If machining titanium check your insurance and have a suitable fire extinguisher. It can burn fiercely in swarf form

 

[vyv_cox]

It comes down to cost as the limiting factor. Many boats do not have the space to fit composite seacocks, metal always being more compact. Bronze has a long successful history in underwater applications but manufacturing practices dictate that the ball be made in brass of some type, leaving this type open to corrosion. Replacement of the ball by plastic is an established alternative but is marketed at a very expensive price.

If all parts of a seacock can be manufactured in titanium at an equivalent cost to DZR it could be a winner

 

[Boathook]

I like the trudesign ones, some plastic mix. Had one operating for 10 years now and still works the same as new. Big problem with retrofitting them is that they are bigger / bulkier than 'metal' equivalent.
Some people in the past didn't like them for whatever reason on their grp boat.

 

[Roberto]

3. What Other Critical Components Could Benefit From Titanium?

• If you’ve experienced frustrations with bronze or stainless hardware (through-hulls, bolts, etc.) failing or corroding, I’d love to hear about them. Pictures are always welcome!
• I have the capabilities and technology to work with Ti64 efficiently, so I’m exploring which parts might see the greatest benefit. In theory, I could produce these for a price comparable to bronze or stainless steel.

​

If frustrated by price, then rigging fittings like sail hooks, reefing clew hooks etc.
Have a look at Karver catalogue, I think there could be a market for lower price products

 

[Tranona]

Hey everyone,

I’ve been spending quite a bit of time lately looking into seacock failures—particularly in bronze and composites—and, as we all know, a failed seacock is one of the quickest ways to end up in Davy Jones’ Locker. Since these components are critical to staying afloat, I think it might be time to consider some serious upgrades. I’m curious to hear your thoughts on the following:

---

1. Thoughts on Titanium Grade 5 Seacocks

• I’ve been exploring the possibility of manufacturing seacocks and thru-hull assemblies out of Titanium Grade 5 (Ti64 – aerospace grade). My thinking is that bronze has remained the standard from a time when advanced metals like Ti64 weren’t practical to produce. Nowadays, with modern manufacturing, it’s actually quite feasible—yet old habits die hard.
• Based on my research, Ti64 offers significant corrosion and galvanic resistance, potentially making it a “one-and-done” lifetime installation—especially important considering how critical these valves are for keeping a boat afloat.
• I believe I could accomplish this at the existing (or possibly lower) price point of bronze seacocks.

​

---

2. Does anyone use Zerk grease fittings with Groco seacocks?

• Is this a part of your regular maintenance routine, or would you prefer an improved, self-lubricating seal design?
• Another major upgrade I’m considering is freeze resistance, so if you forget to winterize or face unexpectedly cold conditions, the seacock remains protected.
• Any issues or complaints with current seacock designs in general?

​

---

3. What Other Critical Components Could Benefit From Titanium?

• If you’ve experienced frustrations with bronze or stainless hardware (through-hulls, bolts, etc.) failing or corroding, I’d love to hear about them. Pictures are always welcome!
• I have the capabilities and technology to work with Ti64 efficiently, so I’m exploring which parts might see the greatest benefit. In theory, I could produce these for a price comparable to bronze or stainless steel.

​

---

Ultimately, I’m looking to see if there’s enough interest and real-world demand for titanium seacocks (and possibly other marine hardware). I’d love to hear your feedback, experiences, or any issues you’ve encountered that might point to a better solution.

Thanks in advance for your insight—I’m looking forward to reading your thoughts!



-Josh

Welcome to the forum

I assume you are writing from N America. The situation with through hulls and valves is rather different in Europe. Many OE valves and fittings in European boats are made with plain 60/40 brass although is steadily being replaced with a modified brass called DZR johnhoodandcompany.co.uk/data-sheets/brass-datasheets/cz132-cw602n-dzr-brass which I believe is not available in N America. This material has similar corrosion resistance to the older bronze alloys (which are also available here) but at lower cost. 316 stainless valves and fittings are also available, but not often used. Composite valves and fittings are gaining ground, mainly the Tru Design brand which are interchangeable in terms thread and bore sizes with BSP metal fittings, although as already noted are generally more bulky so not always direct replacements.

The main cause of through hull failures is dezincification, usually of threads in fittings if 60/40 brass is used. This can be avoided by using DZR, bronze or composite. The second cause of failure is related to the ball , shaft and handle. As already noted even when the bodies are made of corrosion resistant material the operating parts are not always so. A third issue is stiffness of operation usually caused by build up of deposits around the edge of the ball valve. Regular operation of the valve reduces this. Lubrication of balls with grease is questionable in its effectiveness as the balls usually run in PTFE liners which are self lubricating. I am not aware of any European ball valve that offers a grease point like Groco do. Neither is bonding of valves recommended so valves don't have attachment points like Groco.

Worth noting that there is another style of valve that is fairly common on certain types of application, mainly toilet inlet and outlet. This is a tapered plug style and the most common make is Blakes blakesandtaylors.co.uk/blakes-seacocks-19-c.asp These are made of DZR and as the seal is metal to metal greasing is required and a greasing point is provided.

To answer your question, no there probably is not a market for bodies and fittings made from titanium as it offers no meaningful benefits in either strength or corrosion resistance over the materials that are currently used. Also the metal valves and many of the fittings used in boats come from the domestic plumbing and industrial sectors which helps keep costs down.

 

[DinghyMan]

As someone who uses titanium in products there are two issues:

1. Cost, cost, and cost - its just too expensive for anything other than very specialised uses, we use it for fittings used in diving rebreathers, which could easily be made in 316 but are Ti purely on bling factor more than weight savings

2. Its massively more complex, costly, and difficult / dangerous to machine than 316, which is way cheaper, and which can be used in every use of Ti that we have seen or be involved in for

As mentioned above - DZR effectively does away for the requirement of Ti fittings in marine use, and cost prevents making Ti fittings at DZR prices as you are trying to match a mass produced common product using a specialised material where there is probably no market

 

[Sandy]

Personally, I'd be contacting boat manufacturers to sell your idea.

Now we have good plastic through hulls I can't think why anybody would put metal though a GRP hull.

 

[Lee Shaw]

Titanium in sea water under cathodic protection can become brittle by absorbing hydrogen leading to titanium hydride formation. I think this possibility would need checking out.

 

[PeterWright]

I'm not familiar with the various different grades of titanium, but I was familiar with the use of titanium for condenser tubes on large steam turbines (>100 MW) with sea water cooling. No corrosion or cracking problems but lower thermal conductivity than the original admiralty brass tubing was an issue sorted by reducing the wall thickness. Despite the thinner walls the Ti performed way better with condenser tube failures dramatically reduced. Based on this well documented use of Ti, you may look at heat exchanger tube stacks on marine or marinised diesel engines. Price might be issue as performance of these seems pretty good with existing material, I think bronze but may be brass.

Peter.

 

[Keith 66]

Havine spent a lifetime building & repairing boats I would make the observation that yellow metals are not the same, There is a world of difference between proper gunmetal seacocks & dzr which is a fancy brass.
As for making titanium parts all well & good but why do you want to race to the bottom & sell parts made from them cheap? You will never be cheaper than the manufacturer in the far east!

 

[Ian_Rob]

Regarding the lack compactness of composite seacocks is there any advantage to be gained by choosing TruDesign over Forespar Marelon or vice versa? It isn’t immediately clear from the diagrams on the respective websites. Are there any other composite alternatives?

 

[Boathook]

I went for Trudesign as I had seen their adverts. When I go to the boat I just about drive past a stockist, namely Tek Tanks.

 

[vyv_cox]

Havine spent a lifetime building & repairing boats I would make the observation that yellow metals are not the same, There is a world of difference between proper gunmetal seacocks & dzr which is a fancy brass.

There is equally a considerable difference between 60/40 brass and DZR. DZR was developed by the UK plumbing industry to combat dezincification in low Ph waters, as is common in areas fed by mountain lakes. It has been very effective in doing that and, almost as a bonus, works well in seawater. My Blakes seacocks are all in DZR, dating from 1984/5. They remain in excellent condition.

 

[Beneteau381]

Hey everyone,

I’ve been spending quite a bit of time lately looking into seacock failures—particularly in bronze and composites—and, as we all know, a failed seacock is one of the quickest ways to end up in Davy Jones’ Locker. Since these components are critical to staying afloat, I think it might be time to consider some serious upgrades. I’m curious to hear your thoughts on the following:

---

1. Thoughts on Titanium Grade 5 Seacocks

• I’ve been exploring the possibility of manufacturing seacocks and thru-hull assemblies out of Titanium Grade 5 (Ti64 – aerospace grade). My thinking is that bronze has remained the standard from a time when advanced metals like Ti64 weren’t practical to produce. Nowadays, with modern manufacturing, it’s actually quite feasible—yet old habits die hard.
• Based on my research, Ti64 offers significant corrosion and galvanic resistance, potentially making it a “one-and-done” lifetime installation—especially important considering how critical these valves are for keeping a boat afloat.
• I believe I could accomplish this at the existing (or possibly lower) price point of bronze seacocks.

​

---

2. Does anyone use Zerk grease fittings with Groco seacocks?

• Is this a part of your regular maintenance routine, or would you prefer an improved, self-lubricating seal design?
• Another major upgrade I’m considering is freeze resistance, so if you forget to winterize or face unexpectedly cold conditions, the seacock remains protected.
• Any issues or complaints with current seacock designs in general?

​

---

3. What Other Critical Components Could Benefit From Titanium?

• If you’ve experienced frustrations with bronze or stainless hardware (through-hulls, bolts, etc.) failing or corroding, I’d love to hear about them. Pictures are always welcome!
• I have the capabilities and technology to work with Ti64 efficiently, so I’m exploring which parts might see the greatest benefit. In theory, I could produce these for a price comparable to bronze or stainless steel.

​

---

Ultimately, I’m looking to see if there’s enough interest and real-world demand for titanium seacocks (and possibly other marine hardware). I’d love to hear your feedback, experiences, or any issues you’ve encountered that might point to a better solution.

Thanks in advance for your insight—I’m looking forward to reading your thoughts!



-Josh

I’m an old cynic. My Beneteau is 25 years old. I’ve changed 2 of the sea cocks. One because a tail had gone pink and the other had seized after six months closed on the hard. Out of curiosity I cut both of them through a cross section, both were perfect, the hose tail one was good but the hose tail was thin and had dezincyfied. I replaced with DZR ones from ASAP.
My belief is that older boats were fitted with “proper” metal valves and that nowadays they fit cheaper versions and rely on the phrase “must be replaced every 5 years”
I don’t like plastic valves, imho they are too bulky and need collars to support them? I am happy using CR or DZR valves from a reputable supplier. My opinion is that you are trying to engineer an expensive solution to something that doesn’t need a solution, it already exists.

 

[Tranona]

I’m an old cynic. My Beneteau is 25 years old. I’ve changed 2 of the sea cocks. One because a tail had gone pink and the other had seized after six months closed on the hard. Out of curiosity I cut both of them through a cross section, both were perfect, the hose tail one was good but the hose tail was thin and had dezincyfied. I replaced with DZR ones from ASAP.
My belief is that older boats were fitted with “proper” metal valves and that nowadays they fit cheaper versions and rely on the phrase “must be replaced every 5 years”
I don’t like plastic valves, imho they are too bulky and need collars to support them? I am happy using CR or DZR valves from a reputable supplier. My opinion is that you are trying to engineer an expensive solution to something that doesn’t need a solution, it already exists.

Plain brass fittings have been used for years on European boats like your Beneteau. The "5year" RCD requirement changed nothing.

As your experience shows bits such as hose tails exposed to stagnant seawater can dezincify whereas valve bodies don't because they are not in seawater, although the threads may. easily avoided by using sealant on the threads.

 

[Beneteau381]

Plain brass fittings have been used for years on European boats like your Beneteau. The "5year" RCD requirement changed nothing.

As your experience shows bits such as hose tails exposed to stagnant seawater can dezincify whereas valve bodies don't because they are not in seawater, although the threads may. easily avoided by using sealant on the threads.

I also changed one of the thru hulls on the one with the tail. I cut that in half as well, it was fine. That definitely was iin contact with seawater. The threads were fine as well. I believe the tail was a different cheaper material albeit original

 

[Tranona]

I also changed one of the thru hulls on the one with the tail. I cut that in half as well, it was fine. That definitely was iin contact with seawater. The threads were fine as well. I believe the tail was a different cheaper material albeit original

Through hull was probably plain brass as well. Hose tails are more vulnerable as the spigot usually has a taper which is always damp and usually sealant is not used. Through hulls usually have sealant on them. Just being exposed to seawater may not cause dezincification it does seem more common where threads with their large surface area are in damp saline conditions. Brass screws in damp wood are another example.

 

[Beneteau381]

Plain brass fittings have been used for years on European boats like your Beneteau. The "5year" RCD requirement changed nothing.

As your experience shows bits such as hose tails exposed to stagnant seawater can dezincify whereas valve bodies don't because they are not in seawater, although the threads may. easily avoided by using sealant on the threads.

So why change the valve bodies and thru hulls at 5 years?