Sealing these windows?

[Tim Good]

How might I best reseal these windows?

Notice from the photo how the pane of glass is inside a channel. Once the frame is out of the bulkhead, the upper and lower part of the frame come apart and then the pane of glass is removed. Only then can new sealant be put in and then the two frames brought together and reinserted back into the bulkhead. Does that make sense?

So given that, I’d struggle to use butyl tape too reseal? I’m hesitant to just use a sealant like Sikaflex for it to age and degrade relatively quickly.

Would a bead of butyl sealant in the channel work and then when the window pane put back in, and the frames brought together, it would hopefully squeeze out of all sides?

Suggestions welcome.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Exactly the same as mine. The frames need to be split and cleaned, the glass also. Mask off both glass and frames with tape. Inside the frame there will very likely be small fishplates with small alloy screws on the outside that clamp the fish plate to the frame. The two halves of frame are held together with the fishplates and screws. Mine were shot and new ones were made. The objective is to seal the glass in the middle of the frame with one of the UV resistant glass sealants, where the frame is filled with sealant and dressed with a chamfer so that any water runs off the frame. The sealant needs to fill the frame, in my case, water had penetrated the frame and corroded a hole in teh bottle of the channel. This is not fixed by having sealant in the frame. Mine have been in place for 6 years and are bone dry, with Scapa 3507 bedding tape between the frame and hull.

Mine were refurbished by Hadlow Marine Marine, I did not do it. The original frames had rubber seals that were compressed to hold the glass in place. they were binned.

http://hadlowmarine.com/Pages/Introduction.html

 

[Refueler]

If the windows are still in place and not disturbed ... then like me - you could run Capt Tolleys Sealer fluid round the frame ... it wicks in and seals a treat.

I run it round once a season just to make sure ...

 

[Tim Good]

Exactly the same as mine. The frames need to be split and cleaned, the glass also. Mask off both glass and frames with tape. Inside the frame there will very likely be small fishplates with small alloy screws on the outside that clamp the fish plate to the frame. The two halves of frame are held together with the fishplates and screws. Mine were shot and new ones were made. The objective is to seal the glass in the middle of the frame with one of the UV resistant glass sealants, where the frame is filled with sealant and dressed with a chamfer so that any water runs off the frame. The sealant needs to fill the frame, in my case, water had penetrated the frame and corroded a hole in teh bottle of the channel. This is not fixed by having sealant in the frame. Mine have been in place for 6 years and are bone dry, with Scapa 3507 bedding tape between the frame and hull.

Mine were refurbished by Hadlow Marine Marine, I did not do it. The original frames had rubber seals that were compressed to hold the glass in place. they were binned.

http://hadlowmarine.com/Pages/Introduction.html

Very useful? Do yours have a second pane of glass to form double glazing? My forward windows do but my side windows don’t, and the second channel is just filled with a rubber gasket.

I’m considering getting another pane of glass made for each and converting them all to double glazing as it makes a huge difference for condensation.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

... the upper and lower part of the frame come apart and then the pane of glass is removed. Only then can new sealant be put in and then the two frames brought together and reinserted back into the bulkhead. Does that make sense? ...

No, that would not work. I think you need a jig to hold the glass and then the frame is assembled around the glass. Originally this would have clamped the rubber seals between frame and glass. With the sealant method, with the cleaned frame assembled around the cleaned glass, and both glass and frame supported so they don't move, use rubber blocks or maybe a dab of sealant that sets to hold glass to frame. Then inject the sealant all the way into the frame and slightly over flowing, then chamfer sealant and allow to set. You will then have perfectly sealed glass in frames. Or something like that.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Very useful? Do yours have a second pane of glass to form double glazing? My forward windows do but my side windows don’t, and the second channel is just filled with a rubber gasket.

I’m considering getting another pane of glass made for each and converting them all to double glazing as it makes a huge difference for condensation.

No single pane of toughed glass, the bead is about 5mm each side to the frame edge, with the glass in the middle of course. That is good idea though if the frame has space for thin double glazed units. Thin double glazed units can be bought for listed houses with sash windows, where the thicker double glazing units would not fit.

 

[Tim Good]

No single pane of toughed glass, the bead is about 5mm each side to the frame edge, with the glass in the middle of course. That is good idea though if the frame has space for thin double glazed units. Thin double glazed units can be bought for listed houses with sash windows, where the thicker double glazing units would not fit.

Here is a photo of the double glazed front window. I couldn’t get a pre made double glazed window since the two windows need to be inserted into each channel in the frame.

Did you ever find out the original manufacturer?

 

[RunAgroundHard]

No, I dont know who made them, no markings. A lot of stuff in the 70's came from Canpa which I think was general chandler for marine stuff back then. If it is convenient for you, I would call Hadlow Marine, they also supply stuff for DIY repair.

 

[Tim Good]

No, I dont know who made them, no markings. A lot of stuff in the 70's came from Canpa which I think was general chandler for marine stuff back then. If it is convenient for you, I would call Hadlow Marine, they also supply stuff for DIY repair.

Will do thanks. In the mean time I might just do as @Refueler suggested and temporarily seal with Capt Tolleys Sealer and then when the boat is next out of the water and under cover, do a full job on all the windows and convert the side ones to double.