JimC
Well-Known Member
Or This stuff perhaps?
seacock seized
- Thread starter webcraft
- Start date
Shaddickp
Well-Known Member
You could also remove attached hose and play a heat gun ( or other heat source) around the outside to expand the body. When hottish ,(obviously don't melt the bloody thing), work the handle. Worked for me once. Different coefficients of thermal expansion coming into play.
Good luck.
Good luck.
pyrojames
Well-Known Member
Not sure that this is what is happening if it is a Teflon ball valve. Any temperature rise that is going to give you useful thermal expansion, will be softening the Teflon. It night make the valve move again, but it may not give you a good seal afterwards.
penfold
Well-Known Member
Less usual for ball valves to clag up when open; it's more often that clag builds up on the ball surface exposed when closed that causes grief. Is access limiting the amount of grunting that can be applied? I always find grunting helps. If there's any movement at all maintenance spray of any kind will help, just keep working at it until full movement is achieved, spraying periodically.
Gary Fox
N/A
I have a couple of handles, one inlet one outlet, yours for the postage if you wish. Old Blakes, off 3/4" and 1 1/2" heads cocks.
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
Basic WD 40 IS NOT a penetrating oil. You can make a better product than WD 40 by mixing diesel and crankcase oil. Even diesel on its own is better. The company WD 40 do make a Penetrating oil and it has Yellow colouring on the label Might have to go to a superstore in Oban to find it or Halfords.
If it is a Blakes try taking the top plate of the sea cock and bumping upwards from below with a piece of wood and hammer. If a ball valve might be easier to get rid of it and buy a decent new one fit for sea water.
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
So can a Blakes.
Graham376
Well-Known Member
Price of one Blakes = several of other makes and they need servicing.
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
But they can last 50 years and servicing is minimal if done regularly.
Graham376
Well-Known Member
I've had them on two boats and wouldn't want them again. On one, the bolts had wasted away almost to the point of failure. Many threads here about how to free those and metal ones off but have never seen one about a stuck composite.
Gary Fox
N/A
Mine did 63 years, then they were toast.
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
Bronze bolts are consumables , especially when you can pick them up at Steventon Supplies in Vancouver at very sensible prices along with a variety of other hardware. Gives me another excuse to meet forum pals and family.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Whatever gave you that idea? Of course they are, 10s of thousands of boats use ball valves forheads seacocks. Only a tiny number of boats by comparison use Blakes.
Graham376
Well-Known Member
Are they standard fit on any new boats?
Tranona
Well-Known Member
That is really unfair and unnecessary. It is seized because it has not been operated and deposits have built up around the ball. Simples. It is not easy to free off because it is difficult to access and to apply anything that will break down the deposits. Little to do with diameter except that there is a larger surface area coated with crud. WD40 will not damage the teflon,
Just as I advised in posts#2&9 - based on dealing with them in the past.
Really not a point in you asking for advice, getting it and then claiming you had not got a "a single helpful answer", when you have.
Your proposal to plug it and pour kettle cleaner in from the top may well work. If it does not, and you still want to save it, then follow my advice to remove it and soak the whole valve in kettle cleaner which will do no harm to the valve. There is always the possibility though that it is not deposits, but the plating on the ball has failed, but you won't be able to check that without removing and cleaning.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Probably not except perhaps in one offs. Blakes only made them in the 2 sizes to go with their toilets when there were no other seacocks available. Mostly used (in the past, and virtually only in the UK) just for toilets, but the bigger one sometimes used for cockpit drains and the smaller ones for engine water intakes and sink outlets. Worth noting that back in the day Rowe and Simpson Lawrence also made similar cone valves. Rowe were fitted to my Eventide in 1963. I replaced the big one with a Blakes after about 40 years when I fitted a Lavac mainly because the cone had gone oval. The water intake valve is still there!
Rappey
Well-Known Member
I would agree with that due to cost cutting. But maybe when the original cheap one is replaced then many chose blakes?
webcraft
Well-Known Member
I don't understand the obsession with Blakes. As I understand it they require 4 extra holes in the hull, need regular servicing and are much more expensive. Are all the enthusiasts also wooden boat owners?
- W
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Refueler
Well-Known Member
I'm no diehard for Blakes .... given that they can be serviced so easily and reground to seal - what's not to like about them ? Apart from price ...
A b all valve cannot be reground .. the ball is a specific size and cannot be altered. But the Blakes cone when reground will just sit into the base a little further to seal.
Snowgoose-1
Well-Known Member
It's very easy just to unscrew a seacock and change it (non Blake's) . Many have done it whilst afloat. Providing the skin fitting is ok .and it's worth spending the money there . Blake's are great but can be difficult when seized . Probably have to come out and re bed . Good that dzr cocks are better quality and can be changed regularly for not too much money.