Sailing Photography

Sandy

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Are there any keen sailing photographers out there?

I am looking to improve my sailing pictures and wonder if we could use the thread to share tips.

Currently using a Canon 400d in manual mode with a couple of lenses.
 

Frank Holden

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On board I use a Nikon D90 with an18-200mm lens. I go for high shutter speeds.
Some examples.. First two (EDIT Ooops first and last ) were about 18 years ago with previous Nikon D70s at 1/1250
DSC_0264.jpeg


The last one hand held max 200mm zoom at 1/500 , uncropped from maybe half a mile away. Guanacos having a day at the seaside, Beagle Channel.

DSC_3985.jpegDSC_0295.jpeg
 

johnalison

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There are books on the subject but enlightened self-criticism is the best teacher. I used to belong to a camera club, and learned from criticism and also how to spot cliches and avoid them.

Most of the principles of photography at sea are pretty general, in that matters of composition and choice of subject predominate. There are some matter special to the sea though. Getting horizons straight is easy enough with software, though slanted pictures can be effective. Exposure can be an issue, and burned-out highlights hard to avoid, with white boats and sails. I don’t shoot in RAW and have to be careful. I leave my camera set at -2/3 stop and often use spot metering. When I used an SLR I kept a polarising filter on when at sea, which can help with landscapes too. I like to adjust colours to give a warmer tone than the very blue ones we often see with uncorrected photos.

I actually find my compact TZ100 easier to use than an SLR since it is smaller, but also has a good eye-level viewfinder, essential in sunlight. In any case, it’s ’the nut behind the wheel’ that matters rather than the camera.

When you say in manual mode, I presume that you let the sensitivity control the exposure. I don’t have sufficient range to do this, but anything that works for you should be fine. Although not nautical, you might like to look at YouTube videos by Simon d’Entremont who does 10 min videos that I always learn something from.
 

Sandy

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There are books on the subject but enlightened self-criticism is the best teacher. I used to belong to a camera club, and learned from criticism and also how to spot cliches and avoid them.

Most of the principles of photography at sea are pretty general, in that matters of composition and choice of subject predominate. There are some matter special to the sea though. Getting horizons straight is easy enough with software, though slanted pictures can be effective. Exposure can be an issue, and burned-out highlights hard to avoid, with white boats and sails. I don’t shoot in RAW and have to be careful. I leave my camera set at -2/3 stop and often use spot metering. When I used an SLR I kept a polarising filter on when at sea, which can help with landscapes too. I like to adjust colours to give a warmer tone than the very blue ones we often see with uncorrected photos.

I actually find my compact TZ100 easier to use than an SLR since it is smaller, but also has a good eye-level viewfinder, essential in sunlight. In any case, it’s ’the nut behind the wheel’ that matters rather than the camera.

When you say in manual mode, I presume that you let the sensitivity control the exposure. I don’t have sufficient range to do this, but anything that works for you should be fine. Although not nautical, you might like to look at YouTube videos by Simon d’Entremont who does 10 min videos that I always learn something from.
Thanks @johnalison some good tips there.

Horizons are always a challenge as sea, but I've finally got to grips with GIMP and can straighten that issue out.

Exposure is my biggest problem. I do shoot in RAW, even given up on the JPEG copy that the Cannon will do, and keep my circular polarising filter on for all outdoor photography.

When I say manual, this is choice of ISO, aperture and speed.

I've been watching Simon d’Entremont, not my cup of tea.
 

johnalison

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Thanks @johnalison some good tips there.

Horizons are always a challenge as sea, but I've finally got to grips with GIMP and can straighten that issue out.

Exposure is my biggest problem. I do shoot in RAW, even given up on the JPEG copy that the Cannon will do, and keep my circular polarising filter on for all outdoor photography.

When I say manual, this is choice of ISO, aperture and speed.

I've been watching Simon d’Entremont, not my cup of tea.
You will certainly have an option for putting a grid in the viewfinder screen. Although the ‘thirds’ rule is a bit corny, it can be a useful horizon reference, though other grids are usually available. I can’t be bothered with the file sizes in RAW, though it has its uses for some kinds of work.

I think that if you are using manual you are clearly a ‘standing in a hammock’ sort of person. Although you have a certain control, I would find it a disadvantage when faced with a sudden opportunity and having used SLRs since 1959 I am pleased to have some of the work done for me. Something I have learned is to leave the focusing mode in dynamic/follow-focus mode, which makes quick unprepared shots more reliable as well as moving targets. I have a touch screen and routinely set the focusing point where I want it, making the focus lock unnecessary.

I don’t warm to Simon d’E either and don’t always agree with him, but he makes me think again about technique. His style of photography is what I call the ‘National Geographic’ with sharp high-contrast saturated photos with the subject interest mainly in the centre. Although I can see the skill and technique involved, it’s not really my kind of thing, which is more about atmosphere.
 

Sandy

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My camera does not have all those fancy electronic wizzy things like grids in the view finder. It came to market about 20 years ago. As it will take better images than me and at my age not worth spending beer tokens on a new one.

I find RAW fantastic as I can do lots with it. 32GB data cards give me about 3000 shots per card.

I shoot mainly land and seascapes hence the decision to go manual is an easy one. If there is a sudden opportunity for a shot I use the phone. :)
 

st599

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One of the issues with seascapes and landscapes is that the dynamic range of the scene (the range from the brightest to darkest part) can significantly exceed the dynamic range of the sensor, so you end up with clipped highlights or crushed shadows or the camera struggling to replicate the mid tones in a nice way.

More modern sensors which use tricks like having 2 processing paths with different gains get you closer, and modern image capture formats can retain and show detail in a lifelike way.

In RAW at least you're getting the most you can from the sensor, and it you use a histogram and expose to the right, you're capturing the maximum dynamic range possible.
 

lustyd

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not worth spending beer tokens on a new one
Perhaps not a new one, but I have the 450d, a 90d and an R6 and have to say even a relatively recent second hand camera would be a vast improvement. ISO levels have been improved a lot so less light is needed for a good picture and auto modes mean that using manual mode is a thing of the past, with aperture priority taking over for most people with either a fixed ISO or shutter depending on the effect you want. Autofocus has drastically improved, I think AI was added in the 450d to do eye detection, alongside mirrorless mode which I don't think you have - this allows you to see the output on screen even if you're using very dark ND filters for long exposure.

Needless to say your 400d will produce the results, it's just much harder!
 

johnalison

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My camera does not have all those fancy electronic wizzy things like grids in the view finder. It came to market about 20 years ago. As it will take better images than me and at my age not worth spending beer tokens on a new one.

I find RAW fantastic as I can do lots with it. 32GB data cards give me about 3000 shots per card.

I shoot mainly land and seascapes hence the decision to go manual is an easy one. If there is a sudden opportunity for a shot I use the phone. :)
I had a grid on my EOS 650 in 1987! I agree that most cameras can take decent or good pictures and that playing around won’t make you a better photographer, though you may get more flexibility and perhaps more pleasure from a modern camera. From my personal point of view, I would beware of getting too involved with things such as landscape or passive scenes. What a camera can do uniquely well is capture life, which I mean in a very general sense which might include ‘the moment’, and it is tempting to lapse into the easy business of navel-gazing and taking pretty pictures. I think that now is the time to show us some of your sea shots and be prepared for the oohs and aahs and brickbats.
 

Frank Holden

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My camera does not have all those fancy electronic wizzy things like grids in the view finder. It came to market about 20 years ago. As it will take better images than me and at my age not worth spending beer tokens on a new one.

I find RAW fantastic as I can do lots with it. 32GB data cards give me about 3000 shots per card.

I shoot mainly land and seascapes hence the decision to go manual is an easy one. If there is a sudden opportunity for a shot I use the phone. :)
I don't use a grid, any slight tilt I edit out in iPhoto(?) or whatever its called these days.
On my son's advice a few years back I bought a Minolta. Horrible camera , gave it to him, maybe that was his plan all along.
Typically just use 'auto' or if I feel the need the shutter speed thingo.
This was taken from inside the cabin, ISO200, 300mm, f 6.3, 1/640. Most probably on auto.

DSC_4128.jpeg
 

Baggywrinkle

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Got into Photography when it started going digital with a 6MP Canon D60 in 2002 and have stuck with Canon ever since - I'm an amateur hobby photographer.

Currently have a Canon R7 mirrorless (see pic which I took for insurance purposes), a DJI Mini 4 Pro, A Samsung S22+ and an Insta360 One X2 .... and I can get fantastic photos out of all of them because it's not about the camera it's about the subject, the composition and understanding the capabilities of the device.

My analogy is that you would not say to a Michelin star Chef, "Wow!!! ... you must have an awesome kitchen." .... Photography is the same.

Screenshot 2024-09-20 141257.jpg

I always shoot raw on R7, drone, and phone and workflow is Adobe Lightroom (I pay the subscription) because you can manipulate a raw image far more than a JPEG.

Sailing photos here ... Sailing Photos .... have a browse ... they are only about 3% of what I have stuffed away on RAID drives.
 

lustyd

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it's not about the camera
Not entirely true. Many pictures you can get with your R7 would have been near impossible or totally impossible with the D60. There's no shame in admitting technology has made this stuff easier and better. Your camera has a max shutter speed of 1/16000 so one very real example of that being nicer on a boat is not needing to carry or swap ND filters in bright conditions. I wasn't suggesting the 400d can't take nice pictures, just pointing out that for a very, very small spend on a second hand SLR body the photography gets significantly easier and more capable. SLR bodies are going for peanuts since mirrorless arrived, and they often have the same sensors and options (albeit without electronic viewfinder).

The chef analogy is great - how many chefs would make a burger with a kitchen knife in 2024? It's possible but for a very small upgrade it's simple and quick.
 

Baggywrinkle

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Not entirely true. Many pictures you can get with your R7 would have been near impossible or totally impossible with the D60. There's no shame in admitting technology has made this stuff easier and better. Your camera has a max shutter speed of 1/16000 so one very real example of that being nicer on a boat is not needing to carry or swap ND filters in bright conditions. I wasn't suggesting the 400d can't take nice pictures, just pointing out that for a very, very small spend on a second hand SLR body the photography gets significantly easier and more capable. SLR bodies are going for peanuts since mirrorless arrived, and they often have the same sensors and options (albeit without electronic viewfinder).

The chef analogy is great - how many chefs would make a burger with a kitchen knife in 2024? It's possible but for a very small upgrade it's simple and quick.
I did say "understanding the capabilities of the device" ;) .... I certainly agree that with all the tech available today everything has improved immensely, but I think I could get pretty much the same aesthetic on my D60 as my R7 ... the R7 is just easier, faster, more accurate, sharper, and with better resolution - it's technically better, but a cr@p composition or subject is a cr@p composition or subject, no matter how sharp and technically superb the photo is.

IMO the aesthetic is far more important than the technical stuff up to a point, but people have been taking iconic photos for ages without an R7.

I got these from a Texas concert on my S22+ phone on Sunday .... the photos are good IMO because of the moments they captured, although the last one needed the phone in manual mode to avoid blowout and blurring - they were all taken in RAW and processed in Lightroom.


FullSizeJPEG-20240915_220830240915.jpg

FullSizeJPEG-20240915_214309240915.jpg

FullSizeJPEG-20240915_195055240915.jpg
 

BurnitBlue

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I became disatisfied with marine still photography because the range of interesting shots became very limited afrer some time. In particular when photographing whole boats. I wanted to Include the mast and portrat mode is a must while even then, the boat itself occupies such a small space. The crew just become unrecognisable blobs. Why the whole boat? Well I consider spreaders, how many and are they swept back. The rig is important. These are basically now record shots. If I zoom in it becomes only a part of the story. Sea shore of course is a different story.

My answer is video. So much more information panning, zooming, whole boat plus all crew. Gave me a new lease on photographic life and new complex challenges to solve. Plus music and commentary. Life and sailing is not a series of snapshots. It is movement and not easy to record using still.

I use a Canon 5D mark ll for on board sequences and a much lighter Sony a6000 for mobile.
 
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Frank Holden

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it's not about the camera it's about the subject, the composition and understanding the capabilities of the device.
I've just checked - the camera I grew to hate was an Olympus not a Minolta. My DiL now takes magnificent pix with it. I found that every time I picked it up the settings changed. Probably to do with the size of my thumbs rather than the fault of the camera.
 

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I always shoot raw on R7, drone, and phone and workflow is Adobe Lightroom (I pay the subscription) because you can manipulate a raw image far more than a JPEG.
My wife is a very keen photographer and spends many weekends away with her camera club pals. She shoots raw and is quite proficient with Lightroom.

She will take a few thousand shots over the course of a trip and I get to see the best 10, usually.

Studying for a qualification, local, regional and national photo competitions tend to drive improvement.

IMG_0625.jpeg
 

Lodestone

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She will take a few thousand shots over the course of a trip and I get to see the best 10, usually.
And there I think you have hit the nail on the head. A good picture is all about the moment - even in a landscape (the light may only last for moments) or the body language in a portrait. It's easy to get lost in technology but by shooting lots, even with a simple camera, somewhere in there will be a really good picture.
 

Rappey

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My answer is video. So much more information panning, zooming, whole boat plus all crew
Certainly my go to method, shooting in 4k at 120 fps or 8k at 30 fps. It's easy to find a great frame and use it as a single pic , coupled with AI and a 100x zoom .
You can now take a pic of an empty sea and roughly draw what you want in, on or above and use ai to do the rest, or easily remove anything thats ruining an otherwise great shot.
I dont posses photography skills that others have. I guess i dont see what they do.
 
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