Saildrive Anode

[bugs]

I replaced my anode towards the end of the season and found the new one quite loose by the end of the year.
Assuming i can break the bondlock seal (i hear heat works) on the propellor studs, I intend replacing the anode.
I tightened the anode the previous time so I am now considering insulating the bolt (assuming I have good contact elsewhere) to prevent the erosion at the bolt area. Alternatively I thought of includingspring washers or spring to take up any play as it erodes.

Any thoughts on either approach. The anode appeared to be reasonable eroded- ie not excessive just happened to do so at the bolt area resulting in looseness which I assume results in poor contact in addition to unwanted vibration etc.


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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Bugs,

You can prevent this problem around the bolt head with a little paint, just make sure you only apply it to the bolt, also a good practice to give the anode a couple of taps with a couple of hammers, one held on one side the other to tap the opposite side then re tighten bolt, do this 2 or 3 times.

I hope this helps.

Andavagoodweekend.



<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[paddywackcocker]

Give your mounting screw threads in the sail drive a good look you may find that these are powdery and are corroded, in witch case a trip to your local engeering, or tool suplier to pick up a 6mm heli coil set (set consists of a tap, insalling tool and stainless coils) they are easy to use and cost between £12-£18. You only need two coils and the set comes with 8/10 but beening 6mm its a nice bit of kit to have in the box. They also do 8mm & 10mm extra coils are available seperatly.

<hr width=100% size=1>Sorry for the spilling

 

[philwebb]

I second that about the threads-I had to helicoil my saildrive last year after
the anode kept working loose. It seems to have done the job. Drying out
to fix the anode was becoming a pain.

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