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Guest
Guest
Try to install a wind transducer in a masthead can someone tell me how to run a cable from masthead down to cabin? many thanks.
paulrossall
New member
To install any cable or halyard it is normally necassary to take the mast down. Maybe it is possible to climb to the top of the mast and fit the transducer and then to drill a hole in the mast and drop the cable down. at the bottom of the mast you somehow have to retrieve the cable end and this is why I think you have to have the mast down. Certainly on my mast I would remove the plate that is pop-rivited to the mast, drill a suitable hole in the mast and feed the cable through. Then I would drill a hole in the boat to feed the cable through, useing a deck gland (in the States I guess West would have one) and then internally feed cable to readout.
Hope this is of some use to you.
Hope this is of some use to you.
Dipper
Well-known member
Masts are often full of obstructions and some have expanded foam in them so it’s not easy!
I’ve used this technique before:-
Choose a suitable halyard that goes near to where you want your cable to run. The main sail halyard is likely to be the best.
Firmly attach the end of some string to the halyard – at the bottom end if the halyard is up the mast, at the top if the halyard end is at deck level. Make sure the end of the string is flush with the rope so it doesn’t catch – use tape to hold it tightly in place and/or sew it in.
Haul gently on the halyard and pull the string through the mast. You will need to tie another piece of rope to the free end of the halyard so you can pull it down again if the mast is still stepped.
When the string and halyard emerge together (if you are lucky) separate the string from the halyard. You now have the opportunity to hook the string through your previously drilled holes at either end of the mast – easier said than done!
Secure your new cable to the string, again making sure nothing sticks out that can catch and gently pull it through the mast.
It’s easier with two people – one to pull and the other to feed. The trick is not to apply too much force. If anything catches, ‘reverse’ and try again. If you pull hard, you will lose the connection.
PS Sods law is bound to operate and it will probably take you the whole weekend!
#:O)
I’ve used this technique before:-
Choose a suitable halyard that goes near to where you want your cable to run. The main sail halyard is likely to be the best.
Firmly attach the end of some string to the halyard – at the bottom end if the halyard is up the mast, at the top if the halyard end is at deck level. Make sure the end of the string is flush with the rope so it doesn’t catch – use tape to hold it tightly in place and/or sew it in.
Haul gently on the halyard and pull the string through the mast. You will need to tie another piece of rope to the free end of the halyard so you can pull it down again if the mast is still stepped.
When the string and halyard emerge together (if you are lucky) separate the string from the halyard. You now have the opportunity to hook the string through your previously drilled holes at either end of the mast – easier said than done!
Secure your new cable to the string, again making sure nothing sticks out that can catch and gently pull it through the mast.
It’s easier with two people – one to pull and the other to feed. The trick is not to apply too much force. If anything catches, ‘reverse’ and try again. If you pull hard, you will lose the connection.
PS Sods law is bound to operate and it will probably take you the whole weekend!
#:O)
Lynette
Member
I though of adding another masthead cable by climbing to the top and dropping down a thread with a heavy shackle pin attached, to pull up the new cable. But it turned out the existing cables (for VHF and nav lights) ran down an internal conduit, which stops them slapping noisily inside the mast.
So we took the mast down, tied a thread of whipping twine to the VHF cable, and pulled it down the mast. We drilled another hole at the bottom of the mast and, without untying the VHF cable, pulled out a bight of the whipping twine to tie on the new cable. Actually we sewed it on for extra security. Then, gingerly, we pulled the whipping twine back up the mast so raising both cables. Some anxious moments when it got tight towards the top, but all was well. Both now come out the same hole in the masthead cap. Finally, threaded on a rubber gland to fit at the new mast hole to prevent the cable fraying.
It's possible to fit a plug and socket through the deck, but we just drilled through and fitted a proper waterproof gland into the deck by the mast. From experience that will last better and we didn't need to cut the cable anywhere between masthead and instrument.
So we took the mast down, tied a thread of whipping twine to the VHF cable, and pulled it down the mast. We drilled another hole at the bottom of the mast and, without untying the VHF cable, pulled out a bight of the whipping twine to tie on the new cable. Actually we sewed it on for extra security. Then, gingerly, we pulled the whipping twine back up the mast so raising both cables. Some anxious moments when it got tight towards the top, but all was well. Both now come out the same hole in the masthead cap. Finally, threaded on a rubber gland to fit at the new mast hole to prevent the cable fraying.
It's possible to fit a plug and socket through the deck, but we just drilled through and fitted a proper waterproof gland into the deck by the mast. From experience that will last better and we didn't need to cut the cable anywhere between masthead and instrument.
LadyInBed
Well-known member
If you use a Deck Gland, try to leave about a foot of slack just below deck level, as inevitably the mast will have to be lowered at some stage of its life. Then, when the cable is cut, the fitting of a deck connector is that much easier.
oldharry
Well-known member
Before installing the cables, attach large ratchet type cable ties every metre or so, arranging the tails at approx 120 degrees to each other. This will support the cable and stop that infuriating rattle when the boat is at anchor as the cables slap the inside of the mast. Cheap easy and 100 % effective.
PeterGibbs
New member
I assume you want to do with it mast up. The trick is not to install a cable floating free in the mast otherwise it will get damaged by halyards etc as they are worked.
If there is a service channel it must be used; thread a line down and draw your new cable up or down. If no channel, your new cable must be anchored to an existing cable; this is done by withdrawing the existing cable and securing the new cable to the existing at regular intervals before reinstalling it in the mast.
When I first owned a boat I installed a cable floating free in the mast - soon it was floating out the front of the mast, having escaped via the open sail groove on the front of the mast! I had to got back and reinstall as above.
If you do go up the mast you will be there for quite a while. I suggest a strong strop to stand in - so as to get above the job and look down on the mast top, plus a strong strop to secure yourself at the waist to the mast - this way you can free both hands for work.
This can all be done with the mast up, but if you have any other reason to bring it down, I strongly suggest you do so; threading on the ground, especially with a metal threader (see your friendly yard) is so much better!
Good luck
Peter Gibbs
If there is a service channel it must be used; thread a line down and draw your new cable up or down. If no channel, your new cable must be anchored to an existing cable; this is done by withdrawing the existing cable and securing the new cable to the existing at regular intervals before reinstalling it in the mast.
When I first owned a boat I installed a cable floating free in the mast - soon it was floating out the front of the mast, having escaped via the open sail groove on the front of the mast! I had to got back and reinstall as above.
If you do go up the mast you will be there for quite a while. I suggest a strong strop to stand in - so as to get above the job and look down on the mast top, plus a strong strop to secure yourself at the waist to the mast - this way you can free both hands for work.
This can all be done with the mast up, but if you have any other reason to bring it down, I strongly suggest you do so; threading on the ground, especially with a metal threader (see your friendly yard) is so much better!
Good luck
Peter Gibbs
Sybarite
Well-known member
One way to retrieve the cable is to use a metal tape measure. Feed it in carefully and hopefully it will work its way back round to the entry point encircling the cable. I haven't tried it but read about it elsewhre.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
Kemp mast sections have a pocket on the outside of the extrusion, inside the mainsail slot, that takes cables. It's usually best to tape the cables together inside, as it prevents any cable from coming out. In some of the older Kemp designs you need to remove the cap casting, so the mast has to come down anyway. Later designs have a different cap design and it is possible to thread cables through with the mast up.